Jump to content
Fly Tying

salmobytes

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    460
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by salmobytes

  1. This one on a #18 hook with a more elaborate needle body
  2. Ok. This is a remarkably durable fly. I make a "wash bottle" out of thin CA glue by inserting a 28 guage thin wall PTFE (teflon) tube all the way to the bottom. Then caulk it in place with a hot melt glue gun. You don't tip the bottle. You squeeze it and watch the glue ride up the PTFE tube. Release pressure at the last second. That way you can accurately dispense pin point drops, ezzackly where you need it. 22 or 24 guage for thicker ZapAGap. I put a #10 beading needle in the vise. Wax it with purple cross country ski wax. Get thread started with maybe ten wraps all in same place. Lash on the tip of a duck flank feather. The rear end of that body feather looks like a paint brush at this point. We'll fix it later. Pull a strand of Senyo Laser Dub either side of the body, where the body is wrapped onto the needle. Parachute wrap on the top side of the body, around the wing clump with two wraps (all that while pulling up on the wing with your third hand). Whip finish. Pull it off the needle. Hook in vise. Add hackle feather but don't wind it yet. Attach modular body LOOSELY (loosely). Now wrap horizontally 5 t6 10 times between body and shank. Leave bobbin hanging. Wind parachute. Turn vise so bottom of fly faces you, so bobbin and hackle pliers hang. Put a micro dab of resin (UV or thicker CA like ZapAGap) at fulcrum of parachute. Snip of the hanging stuff. I use a razor. Last step is to fix the paint brush tail. Use a sewing needle to carefully roll and stroke a tiny amount of fabric cement on the end of the duck flank feather. End only. Use a needle to stroke it out to a sharp point. It's done. Ready to fish in a half an hour (fabric cement takes a while). The fly is all on top of the hook, which creates some wind resistance. The weight of the hook pulls down on that wind resistance as the fly settles, so it always lands upright. lands gently too. Floats well. Dries off with two snap casts. Floats again. If I catch a fish I wash it off and put in silica powder. But in between fish it only needs a quick snap cast.
  3. I can't see'em anymore either so I fish them behind a Royal Wulff. And set the hook if the water dimples in the right place. I have to carry 5x jewelers goggles in my fishing backpack. So I can get them tied on. Mostly i just enjoy tying them.
  4. #20 scud hook. A lighter wire short shank emerger hook would be a better choice. But i'm out. I'll have to order some. Three materials: duck flank body, dun hackle, Senyo Laser Dub wing. The body and wing are made separately on a horizontal needle. The rest done in the vise. The last step is to use a sewing needle to carefully stroke a minute amount of fabric cement onto the tip of the abdomen, so it comes to a nicely tapered point.
  5. #18 emerger hook Fibettes tails, quill body tied over a spawn sack foundation, tied separately on a waxed beading needle, senyo laser dub wing, rooster parachute. Fabric cement (body) and CA glue (fulcrum of parachute)
  6. It's ugly but I have a hunch it will work anyway. Maybe even better.
  7. Flat Caddis -- with parachute hackle Senyo Laser Dub wing tied on a waxy needle, then slid off the needle. A bit of fluorescent chartreuse on top of the gray wing makes it easier for the fisherman to see, yet still brownish gray from below. After sliding the modular wing off the needle mount a hackle feather on a dry fly hook but don't yet wind it. Attach the wing somewhat loosely. Wind horizontally between wing and shank a half a dozen times. Whip finish. Wind the parachute hackle between wing and shank. Leave hackle pliers hanging. Turn the fly on its side so the bottom faces you. Put a dab of glue at the fulcrum of the parachute. Breath on it if it's CA glue (to kick it off) or shine a UV light on it if you used UV resin. Pull on the hackle tip while pushing a razor blade against the stem of the feather, close to the shank. Now it's done. Fast and easy. Floats well. Sits close to the water like a real Caddis, and yet you can still see it, because of the fluorescent accent. Use orange instead of chartreuse if you eyesight is bad.
  8. Very nice. I'm no biologist but I think the following is a real one--a real (Western) PMD nymph. Remarkably similar to yours.
  9. wing/body is tied on a waxed up horizontal #10 beading needle. I lash down long tail fibers and then a duck flank feather slightly wetted with fabric cement. Wind out to the tail. Wind back. Widely spaced wraps. But any body method would do. Pull a long skinny clump of Senyo Laser Dub up either side of the needle at the wing position. Two parachute wraps on top secure it. Slide it off the needle. Bend the body to any desired curve. Dab on a bit of slightly thinned fabric cement, here and there. Now the modular body is done. Aleene's Flexible Stretchable fabric cement is the best for fly tying. It cures to a soft gooey rubber band like consistency. Fabric cements that cure hard are less useful. I will buy a new video-capable camera later this month. DIY vids are in the works. Video is the only way to really show how to do new stuff.
  10. .............this one with a Zelon Right Hackle 1 1 Right Hackle because it's a fuzzy tuft at right angles to the shank, mounted underneath. One long loose figure eight wrap underneath bastes the hackle roughly in place. Spread the fibers out along the underside. Adjust them as needed. Then apply a dab of thick CA or UV resin.
  11. Tiemco 2487 -- perfect. Thank you.
  12. Best part about mine is the slide-in slide-out dish pan
  13. Among short shank hooks those with a down eye tend to be heavy wire scud hooks Those (short shank hooks) with a straight eye tend to be light wire dry fly hooks. Does anyone know of a down-eye LIGHT WIRE hook?
  14. Paraducks Scud hook. #20 Kumota in this case Duck flank body. Tied on a waxy #10 beading needle and wetted slightly with fabric cement. I use purple cross country ski vax. After making the modular wing/body on a horizontal needle the wax makes it possible to slide the body off the needle. To mount a previously manufactured modular body tie on an unwound hackle first. Then lash down the body LOOSELY with two or three (loose) wraps, while pulling up on the wing with your other hand. Now wind the thread horizontally three or four times, between body and shank. Now wind the hackle the same way. Turn the fly on its side. Put a micro dot of ZapAGap (could be a thick UV resin) at the fulcrum of the parachute. Breath on it (or shine UV light). Wait ten seconds. Snip the tag end of the hackle off close to the shank with a razor blade while pulling tight on the feather. Senyo Laser Dub wing, with optional teal accent, pulled up either side of the needle-mounted body. I sometimes add a contrasting abdomen ribbing too. Rooster feather parachute wound between body and hook, as per previous description. Fibettes tails Additional fabric cement brushed on as needed (Aleene's Flexible Stretchable is the best but any will do) keeps the soft flexible body from unraveling. Some fabric cements cure to hard. Aleene's Flexible Stretchable cures to something vaguely like a soft gooey rubber band. Most low-to-the-water mayfly dry flies don't float well in faster than spring creek conditions. This one does. You can make the parachute as sparse or as bushy as you want. As you like it. The (soft flexible) extended body married to a short shank hook reduces the ratio of metal to overall fly size. So that helps with the float too. Considerably, as it turns out. Casts well. Floats well. Dries off quickly. Lands upright every time. Has a realistic profile (which may or may not matter to the fish). This pattern may not qualify as "fast and easy to tie" but it is surprisingly easy compared to, for instance, a shaped-wing Henry's Fork style no hackle. A Paraducks is no more time consuming or difficult to tie than a traditional Catskill dry fly. I enjoy tying them as well as fishing them, even though they are one of the more complicated patterns I tie. I used to make the wing out of duck flank too. But after trimming a duck flank wing you get sharp edges which catch the wind and twist the leader. Senyo Laser Dub' is easier to deal with. And the Laser Dub wing does not twist the leader.
  15. I miss Dick Stewart. He was one of the good ones. His son (can't remember his name) ended up being a full time computer nerd I think. Somewhat like myself.
  16. Loop or spun? I think spun but I'm not certain. I have to give the fly back to its owner tomorrow. I'll look tonight.
  17. This is a rare fly. I haven't seen another. There are a lot of Al Troth shadow boxes that have been sold at TU auctions. Al and his son Erik made a lot of them, in Al's Garage in Dillon MT. There may be a few that include this fly but I haven't seen it yet. This is Al's version of the Ed Hewitt Neversink Skater. Mostly deer hair for the hackle with a twist of Guinea Fowl up front. Tied on a #8 salmon hook. The hackle diameter is 2-1/2" inches. This was for night fishing on the Beaverhead River in Montana. Cool fly.
  18. Interesting. Very cool. Maybe I bought all this software for nuthin
  19. Cool photo Kimo. Is that nymph (above) a focus stack? It must be. Do you use Helicon software? Just curious. I have Helicon and ZereneStacker. Play with both. Or some other way?
×
×
  • Create New...