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Fly Tying


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About gatorjoe

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  1. Yes the placement makes a diference. Closer to the eye of the hook will create a jigging action, and the farther back will create more of a gliding action. Try using smaller eyes if they sink too fast, or bead chain. But remember that sometimes it is the jigging action that catches fish. My solution is to tie them in all sorts of weights, lengths, colors, and eye placement.
  2. I work with dogs and I tied a few flies with hair from the groomers. Goldendoodle undercoat is the best posting material I've ever used.
  3. Wow, sometimes I type stuff and come across as a jerk. I wasn't trying to. I do use GSP and I have cut it with the hair packer before. Honestly I hate GSP. I find it incredibly hard to work with. I still use it but I have considered switching to Kevlar. I know most say not to use Kevlar for deer hair, but the guy I learned from uses that and only that. I do realize there's more than one way to skin a cat. (Is there really? Isn't skinning animals a pretty universal thing? Lol). And to each their own.
  4. I learned how to spin at a demo given locally by a guy named Tom Ziegler. He does amazing work and ties in a different manner than most. I don't even know how to explain it, but it's not just wrap wrap pull like a lot if guys spin. It takes a little longer but the results are an amazing durable fly. He told us he only spins on bare hooks. My question is, how do you pack tightly with a thread base? I use a brassie tool and it'll cut thread like crazy, so you have to pack before you bring the thread forward for the next bunch. And who knows, maybe I'm doing it totally wrong, which is possible. But I learned from a guy who is great at his art and my flies come out tightly packed and durable so I won't change.
  5. Agreed, I spent a lot of time comparing the two, testing hooks in them, etc, and in the end for the price range it came down to one option, which was the peak.
  6. Anyone else have an opinion on this? I took a class at my local fly shop and was told to use a bare hook when spinning, I'm so confused. I have been getting some nice tight deer hair with it :dunno: I ONLY spin a bare shank. I haven't posted any pictures of my deer hair stuff cause I can't trim to save my you know what. I also us a different method than what others likely have. If you use good thread tension and make a couple tight wraps on the hook before you move on the the next bunch your hair should not spin. But I don't feel hair spins well over a thread base.
  7. I understand what you are saying, but the riser and midge jaws are not "necessary". The peak has just about as much room as the renzetti, a better cam system, better overall quality. I paid the 143 for my peak, 10 for the d arm and 10 for a material clip. Jaws for the peak are 35 instead of 70 for the renzetti and the peak jaws will hold small hooks, and hold them well, just with less room to work than the midge jaws. It also has a better base than the renzetti for people using the pedestal base like me. If i had to do it again and I had even $300 to spend, I'd get the peak. Honestly. And I will tell everyone who ever asks me for advice on a vice that peak is the way to go.
  8. Go to a craft store for foam! You'll save yourself a lot of money. I buy 12 x 18" sheets of foam in either 2 or 3 mm for 99cents
  9. A great fly for CO is Charlie Craven's Mole Fly. But its tied with cdc which takes extra care when fishing, so if you don't like that then I would not reccomend it. But its a killer pattern and easy to tie.
  10. I have something like 15-20,000 of these bodies around right now. If anyone wants some I can get them to you much cheaper than the fly shop will. I originally bought them they are like 10 cents a piece. I can do much less than that...like maybe 2 cents a piece. Less if anyone wants bulk. I figure 50 bodies for a buck v the 20 or so for 2 they give you at the shop. In bulk, maybe 200 or more I could do $2.50. No shipping charges, I can send them through the mail at the price of one stamp. They are a killer pattern, wrap with red barred hackle or grizzly, either way.
  11. This is true but Hard as Hull doesn't yellow when it cures like Sally Hansen's does Agreed, though I know plenty of people who use Sally H with no problems and no yellowing. I use hard as hull when I need cement, which is rarely anymore. I prefer a double whip. The only time I use cement is on the heads of my clousers, and over thin skin and UV knot sense. It takes away the "fingerprints" that sometimes appear on Knot sense if you don't dry it completely.
  12. Fishyboy... That was my point exactly. There are two species fly tiers have to catch, fisherman and fish. Fishermen are usually easier. But I will intentionally tie ugly flies that are quicker totie than their pretty cousins just to see where the boundary is. To be honest it's a lot more towards barely recognizable than most think. Smokinprice... I realize you were trying to help and appreciate that. I also think you said what you said well and in a very constructive manner. I hope that when I post flies on here (which since I'm experimenting with some breakthrough patterns won't be often) that you will do the same for me. I've been tying less than a year, I'm still basically a beginner and I know there are many places I can and should improve. I too get a little tired of everyone saying good job. My point was not toward you but toward the conversation in general. I hope you understand.
  13. Sally h actually has an almost identical chemical composition as Hard as Hull and is way cheaper.
  14. My response to this fly is simple....its a popper. Meant for bass. Does it really matter what it looks like? I've fished far worse and caught plenty of fish. Just an opinion. I think the fly has lots of potential in subsequent ties.
  15. You can shorten up maibou tails by simply plucking out the feathers that are too long. It keeps it from having a cut look and works pretty well. The clousers look good too, my only advice is to keep them a little more sparse. The advice I got from clouser guys when I started tying is to grab what you think you need, take half of it, then take half of that and tie your fly. I would not cut3/4 out of what you used, but maybe 1/4-1/3 less. Its a personal thing, but I have noticed less is more with clousers. Baitfish in water are pretty transparent. Bob Clouser, AK Best, and many others have all mentioned this one place or another. The color on a baitfish under water is almost always just a little stripe along the top, so think of it as just a flash of color whan you tie the "back". I would shorten them up a little too so they don't get short struck. Clousers are more of a reaction bait, so the back tends to get hit the most. But they all look good and I would fish every one of them. They are much better than my first clousers.
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