petegray

Mr Flat Rock native may soon be in possession of the closed loop version of Jay's Hackle Pliers and might have some educated thoughts to share... Year's back, I consolidated an order for several friends and when the shipping was split amongst the "cartel" it was downright reasonable... although the wait for JFK Customs took several anxious weeks... the attachment shows the basic jaws and bobbin hanger and the desk top mount... if you opt for the basic fuselage/stem/j-neck and pro-jaws, which I would recommended , you would be goodtogo... Another innovative afterthought is the "stem knuckle" that fits between the top of the ten and the fuselage... The stem knuckle allows for "variable pitch"... tilting the jaws to better fit the occasion... Do it right... Do it once... While the postage would not be cheap, it's the weight of the optional hardwood base that runs up the tab... [iMHO, worth the pain]... Jay has the ability to cut his stock and will occasionally tweak [improve] his basic designs... Design evolution is GOOD !

Jay Smit hit a home run with his ingenious design and superior heirloom quality vise for life... Besides being very comfortable to tie on, there's a lot going on in the details... I have a serious vise vice and [iMHO] the Jvise is quite brilliant and an absolute pleasure to use... Jay's work station uses a tightening cam to secure the vise stem either in the front [as shown above] for desk top tying... or on the left side to allow for lap-top tying or anywhere on-the-go... Brilliant but somewhat costly due to added international airmail rates... Jay also does a nice mobile line spooler, a wonderful brush maker, and a comfortable bobbin... Always a pleasure to answer any questions and share my passion regarding quality tools for life... Standing by to stand by... http://www.jvise.com/images/ordering/OrderFormUS$.pdf

"(2) The curvature of the vise shaft puts it outside the center of rotation, b a good inch or more, from the looks of it. So, if you "pinch the narrow rounded back end of the jaw shaft" the rotation will require you to move your hand in a 2 inch or greater circle while rotating the shaft ... a very NON-intuitive movement." Mike... et al... Looks' can be deceiving... Here's how it works... simple and effective... The fuselage is on a stem pivot allowing the angle of attach to be adjusted [as is the Law and the Jvise with a stem knuckle]... I use this function all the time... maybe 20* nose up trim... The jaws are attached to the fuselage at another pivot point... Put a large hook in the jaws... Extend the jaws outward / downward for true rotary result... Put a small hook in the jaws... Close the jaws inward / upward for true rotary result... With your left hand, you can rotate the jaws by turning the rear cylinder housing OR by simple pinching the inner jaw shaft with the thumb and fingers to perform the true rotary function... very well thought out and, with an ounce of practice, VERY intuitive and comfortable... Trust me... It's BRILLIANT ! My Law does NOT accomplish that feat... nor do I miss it... imho: "true rotary" is over rated and I find it NO big deal UNLESS I'm spinning on my NorVise... they are all so good in so many other ways... My Jvise allows for "true rotary" by sliding the jaws up or down on the retaining shaft... das DamaSeal is handcrafted from a Damascus ingot by an perfectionist who uses new and old world techniques to create a special kinetic work of art that can be passed on down with pride to future generation or donated to a proper and fitting destination... Instead of spending money on expensive wall art or statues, I prefer to spend it on tools that allows me to better enjoy the total process... for me, the feel and function is worth the price of admission... a good tool disappears in your hand while a bad tool constantly reminds you that it's there... re: #1... I emphasized the Damascus with tactically deployed "light" to catch the grain... on the bench everything is absolutely simpatico and 100% non distracting [for me]... [see photo below] re: #3... Good for you... waste not want not... Personally, I spent a too many hazardous years "working" in the desert under less than desirable conditions and earned enough for me to be able to appreciate what I appreciate... NO worries... sort'a like going for a long ride... Yugo or Mercedes... they both get you there [maybe]... which would you chooozzze...?! To each their own... Cheeeerz ps a less "distracting" shot with just soft reflected light up from the side... more what I see while tying until I rotate and catch a pleasant highlighted reflection... if that's a problem, I'll have another, Sir... thank you...! [/u

Functional...? Absolutely...! Besides being appealing to the eye, the DamaSeal design incorporates the best of the Law Vise [hook access and grooves which mechanically hold the hook FAST with minimal pressure] and the Jvise [comfortable ergo dynamic design that accommodates the left hand as well as variable pitch or angle for "true rotary" operation]... While there is a convenient rear cylinder for rotation, pinching the narrow rounded back end of the jaw shaft with the left thumb and middle fingers allows for easy rotation... a very natural and intuitive operation... The Damascus is sourced from Mike Nichols in the USA... the beauty of his work is obvious to the most casual observer... The stylized jaws are precisely machined and shaped by Faruk... Hand finished with fine files and polished to perfection... Obviously NOT for everyone, there are those among us who appreciate and enjoy uncompromising craftsmanship... Life is too short to tie on a butt ugly vise... [not to mention using crappy tools]...

It's been a while... Here is latest collaboration between Faruk Ekich [designer/engineer/craftsman] and Mike Norris [Master Knife Maker and creator of the Damascus]... A form and function kinetic work of art...

re: cheeks... mylar with a thin layer of BugBond...

pheasant pheatherz n' phur...

Oh the humanity... My head was spinning and hyperventilation made me dizzy and my fingers tingle... 'Rendered somewhat useless, I had to spend the remainder of the day in my micro-aggression-phree safe space... 'Picked a bad day to give up adult beverages... It's ALL GOOD... I'm going to be just phine...! and so is my friend Barb...

Phour Pheather Phluffy Needle Stimulator... Bug Bond, Partridge Patriot Barbless #2, clear mono...

G'day Saltybum... Good stuff... Nice job on the phly and the photo... re: vise grips... do what you can with what you have where you are...

Ground Control to Major Tom... Bueller...? Anyone...?! Oh... THAT kind'a LAST... ! Most of the Light Cured Resins are somewhat brittle and will phracture when subjected to boat hulls, engine nacelles, rocks, etc. There are some relatively softer phlexable phormulas [Tuffleye Flex comes to mind] that will NOT shatter on impact... For my purposes, I prefer the Thick and the Thin standard issue versions... re: How long do they last ? They are reasonably resilient and fare with the likes of typical Flat Wings and Deceivers Unlike many synthetics, pheatherz are relatively phragile... but they can take a licking... I phrequently keep the same phly on all day... but will change it out when it's done... 'dependz... While the initial strike and ingestion process can be quite violent, the process of getting the hook OUT can be even more destructive... Debarbing makes for a much more graceful and less traumatizing experience... For more challenging situations, I used to reach for my trusty pliers which would inevitably TRASH the phly... For the good of the victim AND the phly, I have evolved into a quicker Catch n' Release non-destructive scenario... Debarbed hooks and De-Hook devices that can reach the hook [however deep] and make short order of getting it out and the fish back in the water ASAP... here's some of my typical kit with tools at the ready... My PRIMARY CONCERN is for the well being of my catch and an EXPEDITED RELEASE with as little handling and peripheral damage as possible... Hero Phish Photos are NOT in my wheelhouse...

The eyez are NOT held in place via their sticky backing... they are placed in a small puddle of resin and pressed down with a bodkin as the light cures the acrylic... An overcoat of resin is then applied which encapsulates the eyez and completes the head...

Avert your eyez... DO NOT stare at the LIGHT...!

Standing by to stand by...

Welded Wide Body Tunnel Hull... Johnny Winter Albino... thread wrap + super glue + Bill's Bodi Braid = Phoundation Pheatherz "welded" in place... LESS is MORE... try to use as little resin as possible to complete the task ! a smear of resin on the target... and a micro bead of resin along the quill... once the light goes on, that's it... no repositioning... done deal... curing light seals the deal... have the torch at the ready... when they touch and things line up... activate the UV Death Ray... Bada Bing... Bada Boom... Symmetrical pheatherz welded in on port and starboard... You can add phlash [3 or 4 strands] to the bead of resin on the target... and lay the feather right over it... once cured the phlash will be subtle and phishy... In this case I opted for Jungle Cock eyez... the same procedure hold true for 3D eyez... place a small puddle of resin on the target where the eyez will go... position the eye over the resin and settle it down... squish it in place with a bodkin... when it's on spot, apply some curing light and it's phrozen in place... I prefer to "encapsulate" the eyes with a thin coat of resin over the eye and extend the bead slightly down the phlank... Phoil Eyez n' Phlash option... resin can be added as needed to complete the head... even though the acrylic claims to be "tack free" I always apply a thin coat of Tuffleye Clear Coat or Sally Hansons or Hard as Nails to render a glossy phinish... The SUN is the ultimate phull spectrum curing light...! To ensure a 100% cure, I always mount the phinished phlyz onto a block of foam... and set the block of phlyz in the sun... Pheel phree to PM me to sort out any issues... I've got some techniques that you won't find in any books or articles... a phone call can quickly resolve any questions and get up and running... I hope to be at the Bear's Den "EXPO" on 25 Feb... [ALWAYS a pleasure] reconnoitering and restocking and generally just milling around... Dazed and Confused...! probably won't be tying/welding but can answer questions and tell some lies and war stories... ps it's hard to "undue" mistakes the "Ready... Fire... Aim..." concept is hard to correct... mistakes can be removed with a razor blade but then then things start to get ugly... NO curing light until ALL SYSTEMS GO... Until you get more comfortable and proficient at targeting the resin, I would NOT advise dealing with the PHLUFFY stuff... real easy to bollox things up pronto... ​'best to stick with basic stripped pheathers to start with... 'consider the fluffy marabou challenge only AFTER dispensing and positioning becomes phamiliar... Phly Welders Unite

Ousgezeichnet.. ! there are some tricks and techniques that prove very useful and effective... the pheatherz do most of the heavy lifting...

All hail to the Lizard King and the reptilian part of our brain that most deny... and that goes for Turtles too...

I've tried all the majors [except for Solarez] and have come to prefer Bug Bond and Loon.. fairly similar... thick n' thin... sometimes the Loon Fly Body comes up on fleabay for a discounted price... I always have some stashed away... and I've got a drawer full of lights... the best one of the lot is the Bug Bond Pro torch... also comes with a high price... there are some fleabay alternatives that do just fine for under $15.. they run on a rechargeable 18650 lithium battery... thumbs up ! a fine translucent tip applicator and squeeze bottle is what I need to do what I do... when applying the resin... LESS is MORE.. and cure as you go... ! Syringes and metal applicator tips have no place in my kit... I can go on and on but won't... another time and place... or a PM for specific suggestions and why... IMHO... Light Cured Resin is pure MAGIC...!

When profound design warrants recognition, sometimes I just have to suck it up, buttercup... If Norm had the audacity to turn one out in Damascus, I might have the temerity to snap it up... No one here to say, "NO WAY... Over my dead body"... bytheway... Norm's new Fine Point jawz are outstanding and work just phine on BIG phlyz...

Actually, YES... and the streamers were acceptable... but the notion of material collection had some issues... I've always wanted a pet Polar Bear...

BRILLIANT... Problem solved ! You watered my eyez... IMHO... Speaking of BRILLIANT... NO collection would be complete without a Norvise...

I hear ya' Mike... Because of my fondness for light cured acrylic, tying outside is not an option... Here's the lowdown on my backyard "hanging chair" photo... Friend Jay Smit designed a "work station" that allows for table-top or lap-top tyin'... he has a "gallery" section on his website where folks were posting photos of their tying options... this one had to take the prize... too phunny ! here's one more my speed... interspecies supervisory pheedback always encouraged... On Jay's station, the front position allows for table-top mounting with vertical adjustment and a more comfortable custom fit... the side position raises the stem a bit higher and also allows for lap-top stream side / camp tying when a table might not be an option... Because of my shoulder / neck issues, I'm always looking for a better fit when tying... If the vise is too high or too low, my shoulder will let me know in short order... I see folks tying with a lot of arm reaching and shoulder involvement... that will work for the short term but pain and / or discomfort will eventually prevail... Jay's concept is the best one I've found for a "custom fit" and it's become a major part of my kit... 'Spoiled rotten !

downsized Welded Wide Body Tunnel Hull... the tin coating on these early Mustad Signature Series Shrimp hooks was disappointingly soft... perhaps it was a bad batch... NO problems nor issues with my current stock... very thin wire but STRONG and affordable...