
Kirk Dietrich
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Everything posted by Kirk Dietrich
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Beginner Saltwater Materials List Help
Kirk Dietrich replied to tsimon555's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
I've been tying for this guy for over ten years now and he usually tips me on the orders I send him, plus he lets me use his boat anytime I want when he isn't down using it - just wish I had time to take the two hour drive further down south to take him up on it more often. He did take me on a guided trip for my efforts with putting his station together. He did that mostly for his guests that he invites down to his camp so they will have something to do on bad weather days or at night, so, I'll still be tying flies for him. I'm fortunate to have met this fella when I was guiding back in the 90's. To say he's a nice guy would be an understatement. Kirk -
Beginner Saltwater Materials List Help
Kirk Dietrich replied to tsimon555's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Funny you ask! A friend asked me to create/stock his new tying station at his camp down in South Louisiana. He asked to acquire everything needed to tie redfish and other saltwater flies for down there. He already had a vise. He wanted to be totally setup and said the cost didn't matter, what you see below cost approx. $700. I think the only thing left out was some craft fur in the synthetic material box. Just thought I'd share for anyone wanting to start in saltwater, you may get some ideas from my labels on the containers I put together for him. Kirk Wooden tool stands I made with brass rod fly holders across the tops. Hanging on the sides of the uprights are flush cutters, mini diagonal cutters, UV laser, smooth jaw pliers, magnetic pick-up pen and E-Z Lap diamond file for sharpening hooks. In holders are thick and thin formula superglue, Diamond Hard UV Resin, Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails, bodkins and Anvil scissors. Hooks are Gamakatsu SC15 & SL12 and Mustad 34007, variety of lead barbell eyes, flat lead from Cascade and variety sizes of SS bead chain. Threads are 3/0 and 210 Denier (Fly Master +), popper bodies are pre-shaped soft foam from Cascade, eyes are flat stick-on and 3d stick-on. Body wrap materials include cactus chenille and crystal antron chenille. -
Thanks Phish. I have an old Orvis one too but don't like the way it comes apart. I may have to put mine on a lanyard too while fishing instead of top pocket.
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I'd be surprised if it didn't work. Are you making the tail/body and coating with LF and then finishing fly after dry or doing the whole fly and coating floss body with LF?
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You might try pinning one on the back of your wife's pants...
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Yep.
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Yeah, those eyes look 3D. I like the dripped paint look between the colors, nice effect!
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Those urethanes are great but I found I still needed to use a rotisserie while it set unless I put it on to thick because it did sag but dried evenly on the turner. If one has a fabric store in town and can get the urethanes mentioned I would think there would be a hardware store in town that carried epoxy if you like epoxy. Kirk
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Nice shot, great focus. Do you have the color version to post, I've got to wonder if the color version would'nt have more impact. That being said, you did a good job converting with a very good tonal range. Kirk
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Well make some videos and upload them to YouTube Norm, that's a good challenge. I've made some tying videos and it's not as easy as I would have thought. There is a lot of editing, pre-thought and set-up. Most of the videos I've made are of flies I've come up with and were done for people that were curious about how I tied some of my flies. Unfortunately, most of those flies take between 25 to 60 minutes to tie/make so, I usually break them into several parts. That tends to lose many people especially with today's abundance of instant gratification, ADHD population. I certainly see ways I need to improve but what has kept me doing them at least for a while, not lately, is that I've had a lot of people thank me and say that they learned tips and techniques from some of the ones I've done that they were able to apply to other flies. That makes it worth my effort to produce. However, when I get around to doing another one, I'm gonna re-read some of the posts under the post made about pet-peaves about tying videos posted the other day. That being said, I've only watched a few tiers and I do like the format of Davie Mcphail. Kirk
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Bigtime! Although I'd settle for retirement as an alternative if I could. Good one Norm.
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Kimo, those will certainly last longer than the one I made! Brookie, thanks but its only as cheap as what you can get the bulb for - I was fortunate that a Solarez rep gave that one to me. Then you have to put out a few bucks for a vintage Farah Faucet poster to get the whole effect of the 70's... Norm, thanks. The sun is certainly the best UV source, unfortunately, most of my fly tying is done between 8pm and midnight. On the weekend, I'll set the box outside in its original orientation with with the flaps up and put the stand in it with the flaps open and the foil reflects the sun hitting the bugs from all directions. Kirk
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Here is a lightbox I made to finish curing some UV Resin coated bream bugs. After about two hours the Solarez and Clear Cure Goo Hydro coated heads were tack free although the finish dulled when I touched them. Crystal Clear by Silver Creek and Diamond Fine by Deer Creek did not need placing in the UV light box as they cured tack free in less than 20 seconds. I used a plain cardboard box, cut a hole the size of the threaded UV bulb from Solarez in the side which became the top, used some spray adhesive to coat the dull side of aluminum foil and stuck the foil inside all sides of the box. When closed up, the UV gets bounced all around. I used a shop light with the aluminum reflector removed to screw the UV bulb into and a piece of wood with holes drilled into it to hold the brass sticks I have the clips glued onto after wrapping the wood (not glued) in foil. I first set the resin with a hand held UV flashlight so the resin would not droop. Opened lightbox for placing heads in position. Closed lightbox with UV rays dancing around.
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Brookie, that is why it's so hard for me to fill my fly orders, always something different to challenge me with. I'm just glad my wife don't crochet!
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Jimk, nice work and good idea for Tony. Man, that olive is amazing looking wood!
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Thanks Tony, for the pocket one I did a few years ago out of a crochet needle, I hammered the end flat, on these, I grinded them flat. I've seen people use the plastic crochet needles as well. Just find an old two piece ink pen, take the parts out and glue your de-hooker needle in. Utyer, thanks. The rod sections sound like a pretty cool pen blank. If you have twist pen parts, use a bolt to screw into the twist mechanism to pull it out then insert it into the top section instead of the bottom section, that gives the bottom something to fit snugly onto. Thanks Michael. Kirk
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Bluegill stuff: stocking up and a new one
Kirk Dietrich replied to TheCream's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Use some peacock/green krystal flash in the tail or as a tail, that should last; flash tail nymph... -
Ditz, thanks, I like that sinker cypress, made the top one for myself. This sinker cypress a friend gave me some boards milled from sinker cypress and I cut them into sticks that I could make pens with. The grain on this tree was very tight and it must have been old as the hills, an no telling how long it was sunk underwater maybe 150 years, the wood from this tree could be over two hundred years old. Kirk
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Bluegill stuff: stocking up and a new one
Kirk Dietrich replied to TheCream's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Great looking fly Jeff, I love it. If a carp pops up, they should eat it too. Kirk -
Yeah, I scare myself sometimes. Should see how far I can shoot a ping pong ball with my backside...
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I usually wear a solid color shirt when shooting a tying video as I'm usually shooting toward myself as Piker mentioned. If you have a good camera, you can adjust the depth of field so that the background is blurry and the only thing in focus would be the fly and vise, which case the background would be less important as long as it is kind of dark in general. If shooting from my back side, I use 11x17 sheet foam as a background. Solid color cloth or opened up shirt or even brown paper bag would work too.
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Thanks Piker, I know, I have foreceps too. I like a de-hooker for panfish poppers as its easier to get contact with the hook and not be tempted to grab the popper head with the foreceps. I could use a screwdriver I guess but this is a section of an aluminum Crochet needle 5mm dia. They come two in a pack for about $6 and I can make three from one needle. I flattened the end with a belt sander and then made the groove with a triangle hand file, then I sand the anodization off with progressivly finer grit and then polish. This is only the third I've made so I should get better with the metal work if I make any more. It has about $12 of materials and 3.5 hours of work into it.
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After getting a little benchtop lathe a couple years ago for turning popper heads and having that be a flop, I had to find something to use the lathe for. I decided to make some ink pens for family members for Christmas presents and then this year, I decided to use the pen parts and modify to make a de-hooker. It works pretty good. When I'm fishing and catching a bunch of fish requiring hook removal with the de-hooker, I actually remove the bottom cover of the pen and keep it in my pocket and just leave the top/de-hooker half in my top pocket. I really should attach it to a zinger in case I drop it in the water - the wood one may float but the resin one certainly will not. Kirk This one is made from sinker cypress. This one I made from a blank that a guy made for me out of resin and made custom with LSU colors so I could make a de-hooker for an LSU fishing friend of mine.
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Blane, those are the old time method of making them. I put a little lead on top of hook on the front half, tie in x-large mylar tubing, I think it's #44 from Cascade Crest. 5 min epoxy goes on inside to stick it together and shape it. Copics and Sharpies used to color and OnTheVise stick-on eyes for effects. Topcoated with 30-minute cure epoxy all around, after that dries, a second coat is put on the back of the fly/top of hook side. They're quite durable. About a 25 minute tie but you can catch about three dozen reds on them and then recoat with epoxy for another couple dozen. Kirk
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Man, those are some good looking flies! Here are some more of the popular redfish flies for a local guide I tie for.