
Kirk Dietrich
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Everything posted by Kirk Dietrich
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Yep, what Betty said and I would make them in different weights. If they are in 3 - 4 feet of water and you're not seeing them until kind of close, you'll need something that will get down to their level very quickly, if they're shallower, something with less or no weight, would work although the heavier fly still could.
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In water that shallow, small/tiny may be the ticket. Hard to beat a little Crazy Charlie.
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Jeff, great tie! Please tell me that you cleaned your tying desk off for the picture, it can't look like that all the time!? Kirk
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That's just ugly enough where it might work, I mean that in a good kind of way.
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Shaman, if yo're tying your own, you can try tying a little loop down into the bend of the hook before tying on your tail materials to give you something to tie your dropper to. I've also tied droppers directly to the hook in the bend and also to the hook eye. It is amazing to me to how fish can be acting so much differently in one pond than another or in a park like I often fish with all the lagoons connected, often one lagoon is alive with feeding fish and another lagoon is dead... Kirk
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New shrimp pattern. Opinions needed
Kirk Dietrich replied to Redfish King's topic in Beginner's Corner
Shrimp swim forward most of the time when fleeing they propel them selves backwards by bending in half. Crawfish don't really "swim" but crawl along on the bottom or up plants and debris forward like most critters, when frightened, they propel backwards shooting off of whichever surface they were crawling on whether it be the bottom or a vertical stick, log or plant or in creeks, rock. They go pretty fast like this with their tail folding under them toward their front propelling them backwards and they stretch it out and pull it back under. Probably have some videos on Youtube that show this better than I can explain with words. Kirk -
True for small flies and applications but all my vises turn, some true rotary and others just turn to examine the other side of the fly. I may as well use that feature to turn the fly and just hold the light facing away from me, it's just easier and more comfortable, persoanlly speaking maybe not for everyone...
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Utyer, I've got to respectively dissagree about the turner for UV. As you correctly state, the resin sets in seconds when hit with the light however, before you hit it with the light, you have to make sure your resin is spread evenly because the lucid resin will droop even in thin coats. The way I was doing it in my time tests was to put a popper head in my Renzetti vise and turn it a few time to level out the resin and then, while still turning slowly, hit it with the light. To cure an entire popper head took between one and two minutes with CCG and three other UV resins. I did a dozen bugs and that was the time so it took and additional twenty minutes to coat a dozen poppers with UV than it did with the epoxy, anyway, that's another story... Kirk
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Vise grip here too when I used to tie 3 oz. jigs for a customer that fished offshore and wanted feather and bucktail jigs. I filed the teeth of the vise grips down as they dug into the hook steel. I doubt the nicks would have made a difference on that thick steel hook but I just didn't feel comfortable. The vise grip I had actually came with a c-clamp welded to it. Can't remember what hardware store I purchased it from though. You could always just hold something that big in your hand and tie bucktail on. Kirk
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In addition to the above advice, you can extend your cure/working time by two ways: 1. You can add rubbing alcohol to the mixture about one third. This works well when applied over acrylic paints but if putting over permanent marker colored bugs, the color will run. 2. You can mix your epoxy in a small container, I like the 3oz. plastic "bathroom" cups. Float that cup with the mixed epoxy in a larger container of water with ice. This will increase your working time by three or four times although it will thicken the epoxy but it doesn't take but a few seconds to come up to room temperature once you apply a dab on your bug and begin spreading it around. UV resin takes a lot longer to finish a batch of bugs than does epoxy. I'm talking about working time as the standard way of using UV is to hold a light over the bug and turn it exposing all sides to UV until it cures, this takes at least a minute on small/medium bugs and longer on larger bugs. You can put the UV coated bugs on a turning wheel and put it in sunlight but then you're doing the same as epoxy except having to find a UV source. (Time tested this several times, the time is accurate contrary to UV company advertising.) However, UV resin is a great tool and product to use if you need a bug in short notice or are experimenting and testing different designs. Kirk
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Don't blame you. You get one carry-on and most airlines charge 25 - 35$ per check-in bag. When I traveled up to trout country a couple times, I put my rod in the coat locker on the plane and rented boots and waders at my destination; if I did that often, I guess it would get pricey. 2 carry-ons?, I could live for a month out of two carry-ons. :-)
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Jam, you may not be tying flies on the plane but I have never traveled heavier than one carry on bag except once when I went to Key West and I brought my friend a 48 qt ice chest with fresh Louisiana shrimp and soft shell crabs, which I had to check-in of course. Other than that, if it doesn't fit in my carry-on, it doesn't go. Kirk
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New shrimp pattern. Opinions needed
Kirk Dietrich replied to Redfish King's topic in Beginner's Corner
Well, Redfish King, it is kind of hard to get a good idea with the picture being so blurry and with the fly oriented vertically. From what I can see, you may have a problem with the fly tracking properly with the hair coming off of the front, it may spin in the water. Is there any weight in it? Is it meant to ride hook point up or down? If you're fishing it in grassy areas, you may want to put a weedguard on it and the eyes facing forward may hang some grass. Kirk -
Can't speak about the epoxy/glue as I've never had that happen and had to figure it out. However, I have several rods that are in the back of my mini-van that stay there. I've had them there and have used them almost daily for the last four years or so. They seem to be fine. I do keep them covered and out of the sun with some towels and they never feel hot to the touch or even warm... Kirk
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My favorite is a slider/diver and I usually fish it like a baitfish so I rarely use legs on those. For round headed sliders that I want to impersonate bugs, I'll put legs. Same with poppers, with mylar poppers or baitfish colored patterns, I omit the legs. Buggy or froggy poppers get legs. Like Tide, I tie mine in on the shank behind the head except with soft foam heads that I will thread in the traditional way. As for color, I'd say white, yellow and chart are my favorite bright colors and for dark, I'll use all black or olive with a litle yellow for the belly. Kirk
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Those look good. The tails on the buggar flies can be fine if the bluegill are big and/or aggressive. Certainly on the #6 bass sized one, they will inhale it. Kirk
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Before all of the tight restrictions, I had the guy at the x-ray machine stop me and unpack my bag and he inspected my tying vise and looked at the thing and down different angles as if looking down the end of a gun barrel. I explained what it was and the other tools. Being before the TSA occupation, I was able to keep all of the tools in my tying kit inside of my carry-on. Today, I guess it would depend on the agent you get... Kirk
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First play with the shank tail and some other bits
Kirk Dietrich replied to Piker20's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Looking good. -
UV resins when used with Cyanoacrylate glues
Kirk Dietrich replied to Piker20's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Piker, I guess that rules out the question of letting the CA cure long enough. Flytire, there is one instance in particular that I personally use CA and UV.I use CA to glue a soft foam head to a hook, residual CA will squeeze out and then I may topcoat the soft foam with UV. There are probably other instances as well. Kirk -
UV resins when used with Cyanoacrylate glues
Kirk Dietrich replied to Piker20's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
I haven't had that happen yet. I wonder if the CA was fully cured?? Even though CA will stick your fingers together in the blink of an eye, it often takes a couple hours to fully cure and crystalize. Kirk -
Nice picture!
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Peter, we don't have rocks like ya'll do but we have oysters and I've found that CA, superglue on the body holds it together pretty well. Granted, it stiffens up stuff like chenille and Estaz but it works really good and if you're using some kind of braid, it is outstanding to add prior to epoxying. After my testing on the poppers, I wonder if the Liquid Fusion would be better on the body than epoxy. With the flexible nature of LF, it seemed to resist the abrasive teeth of bluegill ten times better than the UV Resins and Epoxy that I tested on the popper heads. Kirk
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Piker, add lead to the top of the hook to make your bendbacks sink quicker, I like the 1/8" wide strip lead. You can also add a stick up weedguard sticking up either a single piece of mono or nylon coated multi strand wire or the same material in a "V". You can put that on the nose of almost any fly from a Deceiver to a Clouser to a Bendback. Sometimes hookpoint up flies still snag when they roll on their side when at rest on the bottom. Kirk
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I'm with Peter, if those are your first ties, you're on the right track!
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Published! My first full colour artcle awww!
Kirk Dietrich replied to FlyFishin'Jam's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Congrats on that Jam! You've disquised the mag image pretty good, I don't think you have to delete it over copyright issues. Great looking flies. Kirk