SilverCreek

Take a look at Bob's Viagra Caddis emerger that I tied using pearl core braid. It also uses pearl core for the body. http://www.cwtu.org/flies/Bob%20Viagra%20Caddis%20Emerger.pdf

I tie flies so I am a fanatic about the flies I do buy. The first thing I look at is the head of the fly. If it is not whip finished I will not buy it. It tells me that the tier took the time to finished the fly "properly." I cannot exactly tell how the rest of the flies are tied but I can infer it by how well the head is tied off.

Rather than actual stone fly patterns, the prince nymph will work well. I should have included that in my original post. Here are two hatch charts: http://www.trailstotrout.com/mihatch.html http://www.upflyfishing.com/northernmichiganflyhatches.html

I live and fish in Central Wisconsin. i don't know those rivers but I suspect that the hatches are not that much different from the ones we get here. The first major mayfly hatch is the E. Subvaria and E. Invaria commonly known as the Hendrickson and Light Hendrickson hatches. The Light Hendrickson is a smaller mayfly than the Hendrickson. Then March Browns, Brown Drakes and the Hexagenia in June. There will be multiple caddis hatches. Look for masking hatches especially the larger Hendrickson masking the smaller Hendrickson hatch when the hatches overlap. Masking hatch means that you see and fish the larger bugs which are "masking" the smaller hatch that you don't see. The fish will be feeding selectively on the more numerous smaller insects. So look very closely to see if you can actually see the fish take a fly off of the water. Tie parachute adams in size 14 and 16, sulphur parachutes 16, and tie the same color and sizes in a sparkle dun. Tie brown bodied parachutes in 12, and Hex patterns. For caddis dries tie tan, brown, olive x-caddis in 14 and 16. For dry midges tie a Griffith's gnat in size 14. For nymphs tie pheasant tails in 12-16, and hares ears light and dark in the same color.

Is Loon Lochsa as good as Tiemco Dry Magic?

I do a daily search

http://www.amazon.com/Smallmouth-Bass-Streams-John-Tertuliani-ebook/dp/B00J2B0IFA/ref=sr_1_6?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1395322605

I fish 2 flies quite often as "droppers". The most common is the dry/dropper with the dropper tied on the bend of the dry fly. The length of the connecting dropper tag determines how deep below the film the dropper rides. When the dry is a big fly line a Hopper or Madam X, I've had many fish come up to examine the large dry which acts like an attractor and they then take the smaller dropper. Normally a trout in fast water won't rise from 3 feet deep for a small fly; but when they are brought up by the larger dry fly, they are willing to take the smaller dropper. I've fish a dry/dry dropper with a hopper and a dry fly like the X-caddis. A double dry works well with a caddis as the dropper because a caddis can skitter or move about on the surface and the fish are less put off by a dragging caddis than a mayfly. Another double dry I use is beetle and ant combination fished next to the bank or under trees. I even use a dry ant and sunken ant as a dry/dropper combination. I've also use a double streamer with a large streamer on tag and a smaller streamer in front. It mimics a larger baitfish chasing a smaller baitfish.

I have found two main ways of weaving flies. I first saw Torill Kolbu weaving flies back in the 1990's at the Denver Fly Tackle Manufacturer's Show. She uses a crochet hook to do the overhand or granny weave. She is a master fly weaver. The instructions for this technique are best illustrated here: http://tinyurl.com/7lx8gg8 http://www.pechetruite.com/Mouches/woven.htm However, I have found this method cumbersome and slow. A better method in my view is the shuttle weave. You can try both and decide for yourself. I've given you instructions for both. In the shuttle weave, the threads interlock as they cross, and there is no need to tie a knot for every thread crossing. So it is much faster. It is also easier especially as the flies get smaller. The shuttle weave using bobbins can be seen in this video by Aaron Jasper's. One key is to keep tension on the floss, and to pull away from you toward the woven areas so the next weave is tight against the previous. I split the 6 strand embroidery floss in half using only three strands. http://tinyurl.com/6tooa96 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeXp3OZ8Hc4 Here's Aaron Jasper's drone stone pattern I tied with a woven abdomen. Since there are no knots in the shuttle weave, you can easily tell if a woven fly is tied using the overhand weave or the shuttle weave. The shuttle weave has a smoother body.

"Holding Lies" has gotten very good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Holding-Lies-Novel-John-Larison-ebook/dp/B005HBYFZS/ref=sr_1_6?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1395064205&sr=1-6&keywords=fly+fishing

Thanks for the clarification

I currently tie on a Renzetti Traveller and Master vises and have for over 20 years. No spit hooks and no chipped jaws. My first vise was a Thompson Model A, then the Regal and then an HMH Standard. No spit hooks with the Thompson or the HMH Standard vises either. With the Regal, I must be a klutz because I lost more that a few small hooks. I sold it after 3 years of tying. The Regal jaws continue to close until they slam shut. As the hook slips out, the jaws continue to exert pressure around the curved edge of the hook and this spits the hook. The main problem as I see it is that the vise cannot be adjusted for the amount of pressure the jaws exert on the hook shank. With a standard vise, the operator sets the hooks pressure. Just enough and no more, so when if the hook slips out, the jaws do NOT slam shut. Secondly, when you can set the initial jaw separation as you can with a Renzetti, the jaws are set parallel to each other and the jaws clamp the hook so hook is clamped directly across from each other. With a Regal you cannot widen the base of the jaws to put the jaw faces parallel. The only time the jaw faces are parallel is when the jaws are closed. When the jaws are forced apart to insert a hook, I think the hook is set into a jaws that are in a very slight "V" shape and this tends to push the hook out the open side of the "V".

The web site does not have it but owners say that the documentation that comes the vise has it in the instructions. If my lawyers said to put a disclaimer statement about my equipment, of course it would not be placed on the web site. Two separate owners on two separate BB's have said that Regals came with warning. What we need is a current owner to read the vise instructions that come with a current Regal to see if that still is the case.

I got rid of my Regal. As said before, it spits small hooks . I don't care how well it holds a hook, I would NEVER buy a vise that says to wear safety glasses while tying. Probably to shield them from lawsuits. There are vises that hold hooks equally well and don't need carry a warning. "I did notice that Regal advises wearing safety glasses when using their vise......Hmmmmmm....... Maybe next, it will be my eyeball needing repair.'' http://www.west-fly-fishing.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=397496 "If you will look on the instructions provided by Regal, the suggest wearing safety glasses." http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/index.php?threads/regal-vise-projectiles.90724/ The regular jaws also chip so buy the one with the stainless steel jaw, if you buy a Regal. http://forums.flytyer.com/forum/7-tools-a-material/11984-the-regal-vise http://www.kiene.com/forums/showthread.php?22562-Anyone-use-a-Regal-Vise http://www.hatchesmagazine.com/review/39

I use CR123 2000mAh Li Ion rechargeable battery kit. 4 batteries and a smart charger for a one time $30. How much is your time worth? How much would you pay to save several minutes off of each fly? What is it worth to not have to put your flies in a light box or out in the sun? If saving money is your goal, buy Solarez, put it in the freesunlight and be done with it. OR you can do what Flytire did: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=77271 Or what Stonefish, Lando, and Russ did: http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/index.php?threads/best-non-tacky-resin.92990/page-2

I use CR123 2000mAh Li Ion rechargeable battery kit. 4 batteries and a smart charger.

The Bug Bond UV Light is $59.25. It is not the strongest UV light, and in my opinion, it is way overpriced. It uses an AA battery at 1.5V http://www.bearsden.com/product11020.html The Solarez UV light is $39.00 and the CCG Pro UV light is $60.00. They both use 2 CR123 Batteries which are 3 V each = 6 volts. I sell the same flashlight for $30.00. http://www.solarez.com/productsnew/uv_flashlight.html http://www.bearsden.com/product11566.html I bought and tested the Bug Bond light against my $30 high power UV flashlight and my flashlight cures the resin much faster. My flashlight has the same LED and batteries as the Solarez and CCG Pro Plus light. The video below will show you how fast it cures. Fast forward to 4 minutes 30 seconds to see the cure takes a few seconds with my flashlight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sK6P02Dc5pc

Great idea^^

Minor point but it looks like some of the hair tips have been broken or cut. Pick out the hair with broken tips and then stack.

I've not met a fly tier that is very finicky about the exact length of a nymph tail, but I have met fly tiers that are very particular about tying long tails on mayflies like Hexagenia Limbata that have long tails. I tie my tails on maylfy adults about the length of hook shank regardless of the true length.

Instead of hooks, use a split ring or a binder ring.

Ever wonder why the Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear and the Pheasant Tail Nymphs are so popular? It is because these two materials allow you tie a dark or light colored nymph in a thin or stout shape. They are generic and close enough in color and shape to imitate most mayfly nymphs.

As flytire says the ratio of tail length to body length varies because it varies in nature. You will also notice that body shape varies as well from flat and stout to round and thin as the mayfly nymph habitat (water velocity and stream bottom strata) changes to favor clingers, to crawlers, to swimmers, to burrowers. http://www.delawareriverguide.net/insects/nymphid.html http://www.flycraftangling.com/index.asp?p=122

The brown lines are usually sinking fly lines. The green is probably a floater. I also suspect that they are level fly lines. If they are, I would swap them out for a modern DT or WF fly line.

I don't spray my pheasant tail feathers. I suspect you are thinking about pull over nymphal wing cases. A better material is mottled turkey feathers which comes in various shades. Coat with UV resin as Flytire suggests.