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SilverCreek

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Everything posted by SilverCreek

  1. Deer and elk hair grows from autumn into winter. So the shortest hair is from deer and elk harvested at the beginning of hunting season. This is known as "early season" hair and is better for flies like comparaduns and sparkle duns. As the hair gets longer and longer, you start to get hair that is better for flies like stimulators and hoppers. Combine this with where the hair is found on the hide and you fan figure out what "cuts" of fur you want. https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/selecting-deer-hair
  2. Gary Borger's wet/dry fly is a pattern designed for the same purpose. https://www.garyborger.com/flies-and-fly-tying/the-wetdry-fly/ http://www.garyborger.com/2012/04/12/wetdry-fly-stage-4-emerger/
  3. Would you be Eric last initial H?
  4. That is not really the reason I posted them. The http://www.hatchesmagazine.com/ is a dead link. It no longer exists in the URL database. The link I listed has a way to contact the editor for information about content. Click on the "Contact Us" on the upper menu list. https://hatchesmagazine.com/magazine/about_us.php Will Mullis [email protected]
  5. These sites works: https://hatchesmagazine.com/magazine/about_us.php https://hatchesmagazine.com/magazine/
  6. Here's the problem with trying to use X-caddis hair for stimulators. An X-caddis is a caddis emerger pattern with a trailing shuck. The wing should be tied shorter than the wing on an adult caddis pattern like the elk hair caddis. Furthermore, adult caddis are NOT size 10 or even size 12. So real X caddis hair is generally not long enough to tie simulators of that size, However, prepackaged hair is often generic and NOT really sorted and packaged for the flies on the label. That is why I buy my hair from Blue Ribbon Flies in West Yellowstone, Montana. They process the hair on site and have loose pieces of hair in labeled bins that I can sort through to find exactly what I want. So examine the that you have. If it is really hair for X-caddis you will not be able to tie a size 10 Stimi but if it is generic hair that had just been labeled as hari for X-caddis, you night be able to tie the Stimies especially in the smaller sizes.
  7. If you only needed size 12-16, you could save money and buy saddles centered on size 14. It will have some some size 12 and 16 hackles When you add size 10 and 18, you will need to buy a neck. The cheapest is to buy the Prograde of Whiting or Whiting Hebert Miner brands. It is best to actually see and "grade" the hackle before buying so you know what you are getting as to quality and sizing. If you can't see the hackle "in person", you may not get the best available for the price at the shop you are buying from. The place with the greatest selection is Jims Fly Company where I buy my hackle. https://jimsflyco.com/Default.aspx There are other brands like Clearwater, Keough, Root River, Collins, Metz, etc but Whiting is what I suggest. It is the clear winner in the Hackle Throwdown Comparison.. http://www.flyfishfood.com/2014/09/hackle-comparisons.html
  8. We know the mortality rates from both events. Mortality from aerial stocking is about 2%. Mortality from C&R is about 4% (3-5%). The trout we C&R have been stressed. We would not expect the same survival rates since the events are not comparable and are fish are of a different ages.
  9. Did you keep track of refusals? I think something like a take to refusal ratio would indicate the most effective fly that day.
  10. What I use is for shuck material is actually Aunt Lydias Rug antron yarn in the gold color. See this blog: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/blog/spin-a-yarn/ "A decade ago a fistful of Aunt Lydia’s Heavy Rug Yarn, Antron flavor, would last you ten lifetimes. But don’t bother trying to find such skeins now, on auction sites or wherever, because rugs have long since gone to other cheaper fibers. Get it from J. Stockard in a less ridiculous size." Figure 1—Dear Departed Aunt Lydia Here are all my colors of Aunt Lydias Rug yarn I bought many years ago. This is the color I use for shuck material. When untwisted and splayed out it matches trailing shucks.
  11. Since you are half Ukrainian, the math says 75 proof is what you should drink. 😃
  12. Shucks have a color so my answer is "it depends" on the color of the yarn. Of the 12 colors below ONLY ONE is a close match to a shuck. Use a seine during a hatch and place it at the surface and you will capture the some shucks. Shucks have a translucent light gold/tan color color. The color you want is at the arrow.
  13. I think that when fly tying becomes "fun" instead of "work" is when the flies start to add up.
  14. Read this about Herter: https://www.startribune.com/herter-s-catalog-is-long-gone-but-not-forgotten/291167741/ "Herter labeled most of his products “world famous” or “model perfect,” and he claimed many were endorsed by the North Star Guides Association — which didn’t exist..... Among the more unusual products George Herter sold was a fish call. “That’s one of my favorites,’’ Lodermeier said. “It was a can painted like a lure,’’ and operated like a bell. “You put it down in the water and pulled a string. It was guaranteed to attract fish.’’ Wrote Herter in his catalog: “We tried for years to produce sounds which would be attractive to fish and we have finally succeeded. With the cost of fishing trips what they are, why take a chance on spoiling them for a mere $2.47?”
  15. ^^^^ What he said. Hatches have to be regular and prolific and the water surface smooth enough for the fish to see the fly well enough to refuse poor imitation and/or presentations with micro drag.
  16. Here's my take. For color theory in fly fishing read Fly-tyer's Color Guide by Al Caucci/Bob Nastasi. They write that the colors of insects and other prey that trout feed on are NOT uniform but are made up of different colors and shades that both humans and trout "see" as one color. They make the argument that any color can be made up of a combination of red, blue and yellow shades. Note the mayfly below. With that knowledge as a backdrop, I believe that nothing that S&R write is "wrong" per se about naturals being composed of different colors and shades as in the mayfly above. Also Selective Trout was written in 1971 well before modern research into trout vision and specifically before Dr. Gordon Byrnes research which was published in Fly Fisherman Magazine in the July 1990 issue in the article. "How Trout See." In this article, Dr. Byrnes shows that by examining the trout eye and specifically the retina, trout see 1/14 the detail we humans see because the color receptors in the trout retina not as closely packed. So what they is more "pixelated" that what we see. Here is what a real insect looks like to a trout. Mayfly at 6 inches g] Mayfly at 3 inches So trout do not see well and they do not see DETAIL well at all. So they have less ability that we humans have to pick out the individual colors of dubbing fibers that create the overall color/shade of a fly. The second reality is that all trout do not act the same. In other words, like any populations of animals including humans, they vary in behavior. So a fly that may fool one fish may not fool a more "selective" fish. Read my post on selectivity on this thread on "What Trout See" http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=72113 In summary, I believe that for selective trout you may hook a few more fish when fishing to selective trout using spectrumized dubbing; BUT, is it really worth it to try to mix your own dubbing when most of the fish you will fish for will be not that selective at all?
  17. Good luck tying that no hackle ^^^^^^ Unless you get those wing ABSOLUTELY SYMMETRICAL, the fly fly will helicopter when you cast it and your tippet will look like a coiled spring. It is no coincidence that those wings look like the vanes on an wind turbine.
  18. Parachutes are one of my favorite flies to tie. Like any fly, there are shortcuts that make them easier to tie. Here are two 2 minute parachutes.
  19. I don't think you will find a difference in catch rates between the two.
  20. You can also use emu feathers to tie buggers. https://www.bobsflybox.com/Fly Pattersn/EmuBugger Family.pdf Here are my emu buggers
  21. The other side of the coin is the positive punishment arm of operant conditioning. Do you remember a few years ago when the purple haze fly was the hot fly of the summer and then it gradually fizzled out. I personally have experienced a hot fly that world for a while and then slowly and gradually seems to not work as well. How does that occur. The explanation is positive punishment which most people think of a negative reinforcement. https://somuchpetential.com/the-four-quadrants-of-consequences/ https://www.parentingforbrain.com/positive-punishment/ So this side of operant conditioning works animals and people and it works in fish as well. Fish that have been caught with a fly multiple time gradually learn to avoid that fly. This is positive punishment at work. The thing is that we cannot know what about that fly triggered the avoidance behavior. I think we can assume that size, shape, and even color probably has something to do with avoidance in some of the fish. But here's the thing. For some fish it could be the presence of the hook or perhaps the hook in conjunction with something else. We can never know for certain in every case why the fish refused the fly. But I do know that to say that the reason a fish refuses a fly has NEVER at any time before been because of a hook or never in the future will be because they noticed the hook is very unlikely to be a true statement.
  22. The traditional grizzly with brown looks the best but the cree looks ok as well.
  23. It is what is known as a "variant" dry fly pattern which is a type of dry fly tied with oversized dry fly hackle. They are skater or skittering fly patterns. https://www.flydreamers.com/en/fly-tying/variant-vl125 https://howtoflyfish.orvis.com/fly-tying-videos/dry-flies/997-cream_variant "For the Variant’s long, stiff tail.......measure to form a tail a full 2 hook shanks in length and transfer that measurement rearward to the start of the hook bend........ It’s important to get the geometry right with this fly, so it rests correctly on the water’s surface and can be skittered along without sinking. If you can set it down and have the tip of the tail, the bottom of the hook and the tips of the hackle all in the same plane, you’ve pretty much nailed it."
  24. George I have a suggestions on the Royal Wulff. It should should be tied with a split wing and not an upright wing,
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