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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by SilverCreek

  1. I suggest getting a shallow bag "catch and release" type bag that does not bend the fish when you net it. One source is the "measure net" bag. https://measurefish.com/t/net-bags
  2. Here's another idea. If you are a new fly fisher, perhaps you should first buy a few flies that other fly fishers say will work in your area and fish them. If they do work, then buy the materials for them and learn how to tie them.
  3. The Southern Wisconsin Chapter of TU gave a free beginner’s course in fly tying. he course guide is an excellent free guide for beginners with a pattern list of basic flies. They also have a list of basic tools and materials. Since the course provides all fly materials, there is no list of basic pattern materials other than thread. These PDFs will be up for a short time. I suggest that anyone interested in fly tying download the PDFs. You can buy the materials in the Material PDF to tie the flies in the Course Booklet. the Wooly Bugger is the first fly in Fly Tying course booklet. Buy some "Wooly Bugger Saddle Hackle" - Google it PDF of Tying Course Booklet: https://www.swtu.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Fly-Tying-I-Instructional-Booklet.pdf PDF of Tool and Materials: https://tinyurl.com/y8eooapu
  4. Trying to compare fly tying threads by the "aught" system doesn't really work. Read this article: http://www.swtu.org/pdfs/fly_tying/Threads.pdf Here is a thread comparison chart comparing what the manufactures say the tread is and what the actual denier is. Denier is the actual mass of the thread. Veevus 12/0 and 14/0 are essentially identical in the the amount of material in the thread. Here is a hook with 60 wraps of thread. Why is Veevus 16/0 the same as Veevus 14/0 and why are do they not have significantly less bulk than Bennichi 12/0 thread. The point is that without standards, a thread maker can label his tread with whatever "aught" size they want. Here is a table of tying threads https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/fly-tying-thread-table
  5. That's the collet screw and is exactly what I wrote on the other duplicate thread the OP started.
  6. Loosen the screw/knob on the collet of the vise.
  7. The Killer Bug is a specific pattern that is tied with a specific yarn (Chadwick 447). It should also be tied with an underwrap of Copper Wire. The copper wire provides weight to sink the fly and the copper tint is seen through the Chadwicks yarn when it is wet. There are a number of variations like the Utah Killer Bug that use substitute yarns. Occasionally cards of Chadwick 447 come up for sale and they are bid up to ridiculous prices. There have been attempts to find matches for the Chadwick 447 yarn but none are very good. A popular substitute is Jamieson's Shetland Spindrift Oyster 290 but it is a poor substitute in my opinion. I have a skein and it is not a good match. However, I have a perfect match to Chadwick 447 that a fly tying friend (Phil A) found. How did he know that it was a perfect match? He was able to compare the yarn with a card of real Chadwick 447 that he found on an auction of miscellaneous used balls of yarn. He spotted the card of Chadwick 447 and bought the lot of yarn just for that one card of Chadwick 447. So what is the matching yarn? It is Berroco UAF 1214 Steel Cut Oats. The flies and photos below are Phil A's comparing the Chadwick to the Berroco yarn. You can read the original post here: http://www.wisflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1427852159 Here are his comparison photos: A comparison of Chadwick's yarn (bottom) and UAF1214 (top) as each appears on a card: The 5 flies on the left with the red tag are Chadwick and the 5 on the right are Berroca. Here is another example of the color match. Three Killer Bugs tied with Chadwick's on the left and three with UAF1214 on the right: Close-up views of Killer Bugs, both wet and dry: And another example. Three of each, but I lost track of which are Chadwick's and which are UAF1214. (These are the flies that were inadvertently mingled.)
  8. You need a cow magnet. Yes, they are a real thing. Google it.
  9. Local knowledge is best so my recommendation is to see if you have a local chapter of TU or Federation of Fly Fishers. Contact the chapter president and see if there is a fly tyer/fisher who is willing to help you choose a vise in that fits your budget and materials for flies that work in the waters you fish. The fly tyer will know simple effective patterns and I suspect that most fly tyers will be willing to teach you how to tie those patterns.
  10. Wouldn't foam tend to float the fly? For a sunken beetle pattern, I use black artificial leather (naugahyde) that can be bought at a fabric store. The sinking pattern is on the left tied with black naugahyde and the one on the right is a floating beetle tied using foam. I think the material you are looking for is called "Loco Foam" which is foam mated to a film coating. It does catch fly fishers at a fly shop. However, it catches the fly fishers in a fly shop! So the beetles look like this. However, with floating flies like the ones below, the coating really is not seen by the fish since it is on top of a floating fly.
  11. Parts replacement was the exact reason I bought a Renzetti Master rather than the original Law Vise.
  12. There is also the CAE vise which is a LAW copy. I seem to recall that a poster bought this vise: http://www.caeengineeringservices.com/products/
  13. It is interesting that you pick the PMD as an example of a hatch, a book would include with patterns for the PMD, since the "PMD" can vary from location to location a great deal, so much so that flies tied for a "PMD hatch" in one location will not "match the hatch" in another locations. http://www.troutnut.com/common-name/15/Pale-Morning-Duns The best and most accurate and cheapest information is local information. With the internet is is relatively easy to find out what the fly shops at the location you are going to fish sell to match the hatch. I would never tie a PMD from a book to match a location I have never been to. It may not match what is called a "PMD" on that river. The books that I find useful are books that are specific to a region written by expert fly fishers and shop owners in that region. An example would be "Fly Patterns of Yellowstone" written by Craig Mathews and John Juracek, owners of Blue Ribbon Flies in West Yellowstone. The other type of book that I find useful is one that describes the popular flies of an area like "Southeastern Flies" written by L. J. Decuir. With a book like Decuir's for the patterns, you can then do online research for which flies in the book or other flies that work in a specific location.
  14. What he said^^^^ Now where's mine? 😃
  15. Modern hooks are acid (chemically) sharpened. https://creektocoast.com.au/what-are-chemically-sharpened-hooks/ https://www.asksaltwaterfishing.com/mechanical-vs-chemically-sharpened-hooks.html
  16. You will find that fly tying hooks can be a major expense if you buy the name brands like Tiemco. Check out the house brand of hooks like the Saber from Fly Shack https://www.flyshack.com/DisplayCategory.aspx?CatID=660 Or Allen Hooks. https://www.allenflyfishing.com/fly-tying-hooks/
  17. I use a fly called an emu bugger for the smallmouth bass at our lake cottage in northern Wi. Here are closeup photos of an emu feather vs marabou. Notice the difference. The barbs of an emu feather are stiffer and more separated than the barbs of turkey marabou. Emu tends to hold its shape when pulled through the water and collapses less than marabou does. At the same time, it moves more than the stiffer hackle that is the normal wrapping of a wooly bugger. It makes the fly look more alive. If you palmered a wooly bugger using marabou, the marabou would collapse against the side of the fly. Of course regualr hackle does not, but it does not have the side fibers that emu does and I thin that makes for a "buggier" bugger. The pattern is here: http://www.bobsflybox.com/Fly Pattersn/EmuBugger Family.pdf Here are my Emu buggers. Mix and match the color of the tail and the chenille to get different colored buggers. Then you might just hook one of these.
  18. Are you trying to get into fly FISHING as the title of the thread says or fly TYING as your post says or both?
  19. If you have an Orvis store near you they have a free Fly Fishing 101 class that will start up after Covid is over. Check with the store nearest you. https://www.orvis.com/flyfishing101 Also there is the FFI that has clubs. https://flyfishersinternational.org/Resources/Locate-Members/Clubs-Councils Things to get: Rod, Reel, Reel backing, Fly line, leaders, tippets, flies, vest or fly fishing pack, stocking foot Waders, Wading boot, Net there are a lot more ut these are the "usuals"
  20. If you "need" a shiny head as in the fly that Flytire posted, head cement or UV cure will work. But for regular dry flies and nymphs, I do not use head cement at all. I learned this from a guide and fly tying friend who guides in Montana. He sells flies and does not use head cement. He believes it wastes time. What he does is guarantee that his flies will not unwind because he uses a 4 to 5 turn whip finish. If the whip finish comes apart before the fly itself is used up, he gives the customer a dozen more flies. Modern polypro and nylon tying threads are much stronger and abrasion resistant than the silk thread that used to be used years ago. I suggest you tie some flies without head cement and do your own experiment. I have not used head cement in 30 years on my standard dries or nymphs.
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