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Everything posted by Johny Utah
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I made a video a short while ago on doing with that great tool. Here it is if your interested. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQQvv_tqNmw
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Nice tie, I nailed a really nice small mouth on that almost exact pattern, but i did it in burnt orange.
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Materials Hook- AJ soft hackle hook #11 Thread- Rusty brown MFC 8/0 Tail- Wood duck flank Body- Wood duck flank wrapped Rib- MFC midge body thread- #740 rust Hackle- Bleached Starling Wing- Fox squirrel tail Tutorial available at that the fly corner.
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I use the best damn whip finish tool ever devised and its also the original. And you can even use for all sorts of things like hailing the tools. The matarelli is more costly because he puts a notch in the bottom to cut the thread. Now isnt that worth that extra bit.
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I remember when this all started. How may boxes through it all have gone missing?
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It looks like a nightmare to cast, but nice tie.
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By far loon is the best deal as far as quantity for coin. There torch is sweet as well. Next is bug bond, and then ccg. As far as where to get them, check out the site sponsors.
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I am sure there are several threads on here about this subject, as i have participated in a couple. I recommend you give the search box a go, also there are some great videos on the tube about dying. Also pick up a.k. bests book dying natural fly tying materials. Its loaded with great info.
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Nice ties, I have and do catch trout size of your smaller flies
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I generally tie chironomids in sizes 18-28. Unless of coarse im doing buzzers, then there in size 10-16. For whatever the reason trout love big buzzers.
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You should check out Jay fishy fullum. He ties all kinds of flies using all sorts of so called non fly tying materials.
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Stone flies. There just cool to me.
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Originator: Jack Boehme, Hook: Mustad 79580, or equivalent, size 4-6. Thread: Black 8/0 Montana fly co. Tail: Golden pheasant tippet fibers (3-5). Rib: Medium gold french tinsel. Hackle: Brown rooster neck palmered over body. Body: Flat gold tinsel. Wing: Gray squirrel tail. Head: Peacock herl.
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My latest tutorial Picket pin tutorial
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Very nice quill body. Where did you score the honey dun hackle?
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The problem with cheap steal bobbins is that tend to have burs on or in the shaft its self. The burs are responsible for cutting your thread. Long story short, the bobbin is defective and dont hesitate to return it cabelas. All the best Johnny Utah
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Here is the video for my nicheo dun. This one is done up bwo style with an olive quill. I have used this one on the bwo hatches that have been occurring here with great success and as I have mentioned the fly requires no floatant. Fish after fish all you need is a false cast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufFTJk-uyDE&list=UUp5lWcLNJQ5_-VaWxvLjL0w&index=1&feature=plcp
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I have used these resin quite a lot. I did a review on them if your interested u.v. resin review
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Clinch knots and for more action I like a perfection loop. It doesnt slip if you tie the actual knot. The rapala knot is good but perfection has less bulk.
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Biggest Badest Dubbing Blender Yet
Johny Utah replied to Missouriflies's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Very crafty! Ill buy one, well one without your old under wear -
That techinque is very similar. I use that one for making hackle wing spinners.
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Hey Bob. I always thought it to be sacrilegious too. . Such beautiful hackle butchered by scissors. Although I still do it sometimes though.
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Thanks Guys, Like I was saying. There have been many picky trout in my path and I figure instead of cutting the hackle off, why not keep it for floatation. The wings are siliconized poly yarn. The stuff floats like cork and is easy to work with. So far field test with the fly have been great.
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Hey everybody, I have been playing around with some different techniques and flies the past year or so, and I have always taken my catskill flies and cut a v underneath. I just never cared and I noticed sometimes the fish cared that the color of the thorax region is of the color of the hackle. So I figured a way to solve that. And so far the bwo hasn't let me down and I cant wait to put the gordon to the test. The bwo so far is limestone brown trout approved. I will be putting a tutorial together and a video soon on the tying process. But here is a preview.
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I do believe the technique flytire is describing is this one. This is a technique I rarely use, but it is a useful technique to have in your armoury. Its main use is for bodies on larger flies. This technique is only really suitable for dubbings mediums with a medium to long staple length. Mediums such as Hare’s Ear, Mole, Squirrel, Seal’s Fur, etc don’t really lend themselves to this technique. For reference the dubbing I have used here is WCB flytying supplies “Easy Dub” a synthetic dubbing. Wind the thread half way down the hook shank. Take a wad of dubbing and pull some out, then twist the end to a point. Then tie it in. Now place the dubbing next to the thread. Then pinch the dubbing and thread between your fingers. Don’t pinch too tight, you want the dubbing to feed from the wad as you wrap. Now start wrapping. With this technique you do not twist the dubbing onto the thread. Any twisting is imparted naturally during the wrapping process. Keep wrapping and feeding from the wad until you reach the tie-off point. Separate the thread from the dubbing and then tie in the end of the dubbing noodle. And that’s it, a quick and easy way to apply a larger amount of dubbing to the hook. It’s also much stronger than normal dubbing techniques. I scrubbed this much harder than I normally would with a Velcro brush. Had I scrubbed the same material, twist dubbed, as hard I don’t think there would have been much left! more: http://ukflydressing.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=sbs&action=display&thread=4046#ixzz1mAojEAJu I dont think that's the method but the easiest way to figure it out, would be to purchase one of the flies and take the blade to it. The body appears smooth enough to be an acetate floss body. But they dont float all that great.