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CrookedHook

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Posts posted by CrookedHook


  1. Yeah, I am with utyer. Your tail just a bit to short. Try and make it about the same length from the eye to point of hooh probly give you a good length. Also, IMO if you tye the marabou on the shank as you did, you will notice a "hump" where the marabou is contacting the hook shank. Some will say it is ok, but this is for learning purposes; therefore, I would suggest taking the marabou and do a few wraps to connect it to the shank, then trim it off a few mills from the eye and wrap the entire thing down the shank. This will give the body a smooth transition and also build it up. If one tyes all the stuff all at the base, one will find that after he or she continues to do multiple wraps there will be a small hump which causes the body to look strang. So, try this and post one so we can see. Little steps/but big accomplishments!


  2. Sounds good Paul. I hope that your product makes ya some money and/or happiness. It is a very nice clean vise and once you add all the gadgets and gizmos it will be one heck of a tool. I am an advocate for all those who make thier own stuff and are successful. This is what we need now a days is for people to step up, produce, and market his or her products. Who knows, once you get it where you want it, you may be able to have a large company invest in your vise as the newest thing on the market. It happens all the time. I would be very proud of what you have already if it were me. Good luck on your adventure. Keep us updated. Cheers to ya!


  3. Hi Threes,

    A Little bit of a late post but I stumbled upon it today. I was wondering if the material you are using is similar to soapstone, but just a bit harder. I too like the organic look of the vise you have made. Now as a suggestion, if you are going to make custom made vises I would suggest adding a few things to it. They would be simple additions and would also make the product more marketable.

     

    1. I would add a Gallows bracket for Gallows/paraloop tools. This would be a great addition INMO

    2. Bobbin Holder

    3. In the verticle shaft, since it is thick, I might even think about making some holes/shafts, (at an angle) up the side or back side, where one can place his/her working tools such as scissors, whip finisher, etc. in it. That way the tools are readily available. It would act as a vise and a tool holder all in one.

    4. I do agree with another post about the achor screw for the jaws. I would not call it cheap, but I do think you might want to use a machined screw of some sorts.

    In all, I think that you have a nice product. I would be interested in purchasing one when you are finished with it. However, I may even want more additions to it. I like things to be neat and clean when tying. I would also like my vise to serve as a multifunctional too, instead of the typical vise that one has that rotates and clamps to a desk. Great job! Let us know what you have come up with and post some updates. Cheers to ya.


  4. Kirk,

    I think you are trying to put to much material on the hook which crowds the gap etc. I am gonna post a pic and give you an idea of a slinder bead head (which I told you not to use) but the body tail etc will give you an idea of what I am talking about. even on this fly, many will say taill is too long and front hackle is a bit to long. Anyway this will give you an idea. Just click the pic and see.

    post-36234-0-00496900-1327726363_thumb.jpg


  5. Yeah I am with utyer. You might wanna right click your pics, select edit, then when it is opened in paint resize it a little. Crop the pic and save. Then post it. I know you are just starting out but a word of advice In my opinion is: Take A fly, just one fly pattern i.e. wooly bugger is an easy one and tye it several times. Try to "master" for the lack of better words, the specific pattern. What I have seen in the past with me is that I would tye many different patterns which have many different issues and it takes longer to understand where I go wrong. IMO a wooly bugger is simple yet, one can learn many mistakes from tying the pattern. (Steps and proceedures in tying the materials, tail lenghts, crowding of the eye, etc.) Get ya some marabou, chenelle/yarn and maybe some soft hackle and practice with those materials tying a bugger on a long shank hook. You will be surprised how many tricks you will learn on such a simple fly.

     

    Tye a dozen or so and post 1 or 2 of the best flys out of the bunch. This way you will get suggestions regarding many issues on one fly versus getting alot of suggestions towards alot of different fly patterns. Tye big hooks to get the feel of how the material acts when handling it. Work on the heads of the wooly bugger. I would not use a bead head when tying these. You will be able to learn how to make nice heads by using different approaches. A bead kind of takes the place of tyeing the head. Work on reverse wrapping of the materials etc. I think you will be able to tye much easier and understand problems when you limit the amount of different patterns and stick with one or two while learning. Once you get these, you will be on your way to more advance methods. Good luck my friend and cheers to ya!


  6. I agree with you guys here. Some flys/lures are to catch fishermen and not fish. Keep up the work and in no time you will have it. The first fly I tied was about a size 20 midge. By the time I was done, it looked like a black ball. That was about 8-10 year ago. Those flys you tyed will catch fish. Usually the ugly dumpling flys catch fish while the really pretty flys catch the fishermen. Now on to the Suggestions: In my opinion only I would probably use a little less material i.e. on some of your tails and bulky bodys. If the tail is a bit too long, you may get those pesky short strikes where the fish hits the tail and not the hook. Also when you tye the body of the fly and it is too bulky it may crowd the hook gap causing missed hook sets. Also if you used a little less material you will have more for other flys, less money spent on materials equals more money for that evening beer! Now, go out there this weekend and catch a mess of fish! Cheers to ya


  7. Hey MFS,

    I have a Wright and McGill 4 pc "trailmaster" 7 1/2 feet long. Mine is not a bamboo; however, like yours it is very old. Mine is a 7 weight. Do you have any markings on the rod? On the Wright McGill I have, it shows the line weight directly under the lable on the rod. Usuall states: "Line 5,6,7, etc". Shoot man, grab a couple of old reels ya got (if you have any) and put different weights on each and try it. I am sure it is prob. between the 5-7 area. Good luck and let us know what happens.


  8. Sherri,

     

    At any time you need help feel free to post a pic of what you have. We can all chip in and provide help. Thanks for sticking in there!

     

    -Forrest

     

    Yeah shoot, just tye a wooly bugger with some biots down the side. I killed them with one just like that in Lwer Mountain Fork in Broken Bow Oklahoma a few weeks ago. Here is the pic:

     

    post-36234-0-03804100-1326693029_thumb.jpg


  9. Thanks for the replys everyone. And yes the biots take alot of time tying in while dubbing the body(at least for me). I had three bobbins tyed to this monster at the same time. Started late last night and by the time I was finished it was already 2am. Good thing all I have to do is tye 11 more by march. Perhaps some suggestions: I tyed the front biot/pinchers on then the rear biots. I used dubbing made a (few wraps) then tye more biots then continued the process. I have tried tying on all the biots first then dubbing the body but that was very hard seperating the biots to make space for the dubbing while wrapping. In addition to doing it that way, sometimes the biot would kink causing deformaty. Idk. I am sure I will get faster after a few more. Thanks again

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