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Fly Tying

Chase Creek

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Everything posted by Chase Creek

  1. They have to tie 2 types of flies. The Mickey Fin is a streamer, and the merit badge book classifies the Wooly Bugger as a wet fly. With a little floatant, the Wooly Bugger will work as a top water pattern. Trying to keep it as simple as possible.
  2. I was asked to help out this Summer at Boy Scout Camp, helping with the Fly Fishing Merit Badge. Specifically, one of the requirements is that the Scout tie 2 flies. Keeping in mind, the merit badge program (there are well over 100 different merit badges) is intended to introduce a Scout to a particular field, like electronics, welding, etc., and NOT to make them by any means an expert at it, by finishing a number of requirements to earn the badge. The way this particular class is set up, the Scout attends a class once a day for 5 days that are supposed to cover all the requirements. The sessions are each 50 minutes in length. The Fly Fishing Merit Badge is actually taught by another Scout. In this case, the young man has 2 or 3 years experience fly fishing, but not too much tying, so I was asked to help out in that area. There are 5-6 Scouts in each class In talking with him, we changed the class content so that we would have a full session (50 minutes) to do the tying (2 flies). Probably 95% of these kids have ever been exposed to fly fishing, let alone tying. The plan - each Scout will tie 2 flies (a Wooly Bugger and a Micky Fin). We are packaging the materials for one each of the flies in a small plastic zip-loc, along with a threaded bobbin, and scissors. I will tie the fly, with them following along step by step. I wanted to keep materials at a minimum, as theses guys are starting STONE COLD. We'll start with the Wooly Bugger to get the basics of attaching the thread to the hook and tying materials in, then go the the Micky Fin. Hopefully, we can get both flies tied in one session. It should be interesting, if nothing else.
  3. I think you're ok on the capacity. I use a North Face Hot Shot pack (25L?) that I've had for years, don't think they make that one anymore.. It's plenty big enough for me for a weeklong trek, but I don't use a tent anymore, just a light 8x10 tarp (1 lb.), and an alcohol stove to save weight. For a week, my pack weight is about 25 lbs (including food). I always take a water filter so I don't have to carry water. North Face and REI both have a good line of daypacks. But remember, you usually get what you pay for. The problem with big capacity packs is you end up feeling you have to fill them. More stuff = more weight = no fun. I always thought the idea is to enjoy yourself, not beat yourself to death.
  4. Can I play? I'll tie some sort of "swimmey" nymph that I don't have a name for yet. Will, I usually include some extras for the swapmeister, they are usually a variety of patterns, not necessarily the pattern tied for the swap. Your choice.
  5. I, also, am not much of a "match the hatch" guy. My outlook is that if there is a heavy hatch, show the fish something entirely different - that stands out from the crowd - and it will get their attention. If it looks and acts edible, they will most likely take it. Fish are opportunists. In a stream with some current, their food is just passing through, so they better grab it while they can. In still water, they have a little more time to decide. I'm always amused by how smart some folks think Trout are. They act out of pure instinct, nothing more. There is no thought process involved. If your fly is much bigger, acts differently, or the color is way off, than what they're used to, like Steven said, the red flag goes up and they're outa there. That's just how they survive. That's why you can usually get away with suggestive patterns. Trout can't count legs, eyes, wings, or anything else. All that to say - I don't think you have to necessarily match the hatch in order to be successful. While we're on this subject; I really don't think subtle differences in color make much difference, either. If you have green and light green, for example, I don't think the multitude of shades of green in between will make or break the decision (?) of the fish whether or not to strike. I expect there are many (including dubbing salesmen) who would nail me to the barn for that, but that's what I think.
  6. I use curved caddis hooks for a variety of nymphs and wet patterns that don't actually call for a curved hook. I like the looks of them on a curved hook. I've tied lots of soft hackle patterns on them, and they have all caught fish. Like flytire says - experiment, play around with them. Just because a pattern calls for a specific hook doesn't mean you have to use that exact hook; if that were the case, we'd all be poor from buying hooks.
  7. I I buy hooks based on the type or style I need..I don't have a "favorite" brand. I use a lot of White River (Bass Pro's fly fishing brand, I have a Bass Pro close by), also Mustad, Daiichi. I really don't believe one brand is better than another, until you get into saltwater, etc, so I can't say there. I have used the Green River hooks, and have had no problems.
  8. I tie in the strand(s) of herl, then form a dubbing loop with the thread. Then I wrap the herl around one leg of the loop 3 or 4 times, then twist the loop and wrap around the hook shank. Makes a very durable herl body.
  9. In Boy Scouts, we blame "the smell of gasoline and perfume" as the leading cause of loss of youth. But I have to agree with others - in order to attract youth, it has to be seen as "cool". I think having a mentor is critical in retaining youth in this sport.
  10. This is what I tied - Squirrel Flymph. But I left the rib (fine gold wire) off on the pattern recipe. oops.
  11. I've never had a problem with Sally Hansen's. I normally use clear, but you can get it in black and different colors. I also apply it by putting a drop of appropriate size on a toothpick instead of trying to brush it on. Never kept track of how long it lasts before degrading, but have had a bottle on the desk for several months at a time.
  12. Gotta love those Brookies! Thanks for taking us along, looks like a good time.
  13. Hi Robert, welcome. I'll second mikechell's comments. There,s a BPS here in town (Toledo), and a Cabela's not far away. Unlike some big stores, they seem to have paid attention to the background and experience of the folks they hired. They both carry a good range of materials and tools for tying, and equipment for fishing. My advise to anyone starting out is to skip the fly tying "kits". They usually have materials in them that you will never use, and the vise that comes with them is normally not very good quality (of course, there are exceptions). I would suggest you find a few fly patterns for beginners, and only buy the materials needed for those patterns. Look for a beginner's fly tying book, there are a lot of them out there. There are also lots of videos.Take a look on YouTube. And, of course forums like this. As far as tools, don't run out and buy the top of the line vise. Stick with the less expensive tools until you decide that tying is really for you. You can often buy the misc. tools (hackle pliers, scissors, etc.), in a package. Usually not the best quality, but you won't break the bank, either. Go to BPS and explain what you want to do (keeping in mind that their job is to sell you stuff). This forum is a great place to learn. Members here range from absolute beginners to World class tiers. Don't be shy about asking questions. As my Dad used to say; the only dumb question is an unasked question. Out of curiosity, are you involved in Boy Scouts (your screen name)? Again, welcome.
  14. Thanks for the heads-up! B&H has been around for a while and are good folks to deal with.
  15. Flies going out in the mail Weds. Thanks for hosting.
  16. I haven't been involved in any swaps on this site for a while, but I've got to agree with djtrout - let it be. Whoever it is, they have pretty well ruined their rep here. Don't let something like this sour a great hobby, just step back and relax. Also, there might be a reason. Over the years, I've seen one members house burn down, more than one in the midst of a divorce, several loose their jobs, etc. I don't know the exact circumstances here, but most anything is possible. The Cops and courts have more serious things to deal with.
  17. Nice job - that should fish just fine. djtrout has it figured out - don't let the fine details beat you down. Trout have a brain the size of a pea; they can't count legs on a fly, or reason. Everything they do is by instinct, nothing else. As for "neat" flies, have you ever seen a drowned insect? They aren't very "neat and tidy" looking. Most of what you do when you're tying is for yourself, not the fish.
  18. OUCH!! I've broken 2 rods in the car door (you'd think I would have learned from the first one). I'd take Switch's advise, but be prepared to accept some jabbing from the Orvis guy.
  19. COMike - I use a Brother "P-Touch" label maker.(See the pix of the dubbing tube in my post above) Was about $20 a few years ago. Any label with an adhesive backing will start to come off after a while, so I usually put a piece of Scotch tape over it, or, if i know it will be permanent, I brush over it with Super Glue, making sure to brush a bit beyond the edges of the label.
  20. I use plastic tubes from JoAnn Fabrics to keep most used dubbings on the tying desk. You could also use short coin tubes (Quarter size). When I run low, I refill from my main stash of dubbing located in plastic shoe boxes located on a bookshelf next to the tying desk. For necks, deer hair, yarn, etc., I use the plastic she boxes located on said bookshelf. Most used thread is kept on bobbins in a homemade holder on the desk. Other thread in clear boxes on the bookshelf. I keep hooks in a 3-ring binder with plastic baseball card sheets on the desk. Handy, and lets me see what I'm running low on. EVERYTHING is labled.
  21. Actually, I'm pretty sure that's a DeLorean (sp?) bug. On the World Endangered List.
  22. Great idea! And if you add a drink holder, you should add a remote caddy.
  23. If there's still room, I'll tie a Squirrel Flymph.
  24. No kidding! I've been tying for 40+ years, and I have no idea where all this stuff came from. Like lots of other guys, when I started, I tried to tie every pattern that I saw, and was constantly buying materials to accomplish that. Take phg and rotaryflytyimg.com's advise, tir what patterns you will use, and have fun.
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