Jump to content
Fly Tying

Obi

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Obi

  1. Hi all Partridge also makes Czech-Nymph hooks with an offset. Be carfull when clamping them into the vice, though......... Best, Obi
  2. Hi everyone, now let's try and resolve this guy's Problem, ok? @Flymph_52: The MP-bobbin is actually a pretty good one. I saw one of my buddies in my fishing-club use it once and was pretty impressed. Maybe it just needs a little practise. I actually went through the same pain with my NorVise bobbin...... and still don't get the hang of it. In the meantime: Is this of any help? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxQ7f0H-RCg Cheers, Obi
  3. Guys, please be a little more liberal about that Flymph_52 dude. It's quite obvious that English is not his native language. Just imagine YOUR struggle if you had to explain in Dutch (if that's his mother tongue) that you are not happy with a ridiculously overpriced bobbin......... ? Not being a native English speaker either, I think I still get his story. (And besides - he either used Google translate, or translated from Dutch to English word-by-word by himself). His point is, that he purchased this MP bobbin on ebay for serious $$. He thought he got himself a top-notch bobbin, with fancy features and stainless steel and everything. But now he's very disappointed, because he doesn't get along with it. He tried to contact the vendor and did not get any response...... and is now pretty pi$$ed. He just wanted to share his frustration, that's all........ Cheers, Obi P.S.: And besides, please don't get upset about my typos or my inappropriate use of capital letters. The first one is my own fault, and seconde one is because of my Computer, who does that automatically. I can't get rid of that, ok?
  4. Hi everybody, I want to tye a very simple nymph: Chis Dor's Brown Glister Nymph. The recipe says: VENIARD Glister Sparcle Dubbing - which I don't get where I typically buy my tying stuff (various Shops). Nevertheless, I feel use of the correct dubbing is crucial for such a simple nymph. What I typically get is brands like HARE, HEND's and SLF. Can anybody recommend a good substitute for the VENIARD-stuff, in terms of color, glitter-effect and texture? Thanks, Michael
  5. Obi

    Bob Wayatt's DHE ?

    Dears, Thank you very much for your replies so far - some good points brought up! @Silver: That's exactly the pattern I tied. I followed the tying recipe very strictly, except for the wing part. The dubbing is hare's ear, as indicated. And I used a TMC 2499 hook for the tye. It says "dry fly & nymph" on the box, but it also indicates that the hook is "2x heavy"..... It's probably correct that the elk hair is not as boyant as deer hair. That may have been the cause why the fly did not float good enough. I was also thinking about a hackle-stacker- or paraloop-wing to cure the issue. In fact, almost all of the dry flies in my box are tyed paraloop-style, because I firmely believe that a paraloop-hackle has several adventages over a conventional hackle. As far as the DHE, my intention was to give an alternative tying-method a try. I like Bob's point about "trout ammo" (i.e. Flies that are easy to tye and catch under most circumstances). Did aparently not work out for me so dar.... What puzzles me a bit are the different properties of differen hair-types. One tends to flare stronger than the other, the next one swims better than the next one, etc. mind-boggling stuff, that is.... Cheers, Obi
  6. Dears, I am just comming back from a nice fishing trip. We fished with nymphs for most of the time, but then there was this occasion when some trout started feed on insects from the surface. From the rise-form, you could tell the fish were feeding on emergers......... I picked up one of the new emerger-patterns that I had in my box just to give it a try: Bob Wayatt's Deer Hair Emerger (DHE). It's a really nice emerger-pattern, an easy-tye, and looks very "catchy". The thing was: No matter what and how much floatant I used (I had three different choices!), the fly simply drowned after one or two casts. I tied it according to the Video on youtube (DHE 2.0) and used elk hair for the wing. The floatant was applied to the wing- and thorax-section, but I never got the fly floating well enough to last for more than two casts. I don't get what happened .......... could somebody clue me in, plz? Cheers, Obi
  7. Guys, thanks a bunch for your suggestions so far - some really good petterns mentioned there. I wasn't thinking about the Phaseant Tail and Here's Ear, even if that could have been an abvious thought . The Zebra mide is a good one eiter. @ Crackaig: Good Point. To add some extra info here: We've got four tyers, tying simultaneously at different spots throughout a pretty large school-mensa, and the audience is free to choose whom they are paying attention to. There is no real "motto" or something, every tyer is asked to present some of his / her favourite flies. I am presenting now for the 2nd time - the 1st time I presented some patterns tyed in Paraloop-Style, and may favourite nymph-pattern, a Catgut-Nymph. The feedback was quite positive. This time, I am planning to show some Hans-van-Kinken-Patterns, such as the Leadhead Nymph and the Klinkkamer Special. However, I was asked to come up with some additional patterns "on a beginners-level" as well, and I was looking for some suggestions. Of couse, the patterns should not only be an easy tye, but also have the potential to bring up some fish. That's the objective, I suppose............. :-) Thanks, Obi
  8. Dears, my flyfishing-club asked me to actively participate in our annual fly-tying-meeting, and it's certainly my pleasure to do so. The guys said, besides some more elaborate patterns, I may also want to present some tying on a "beginners level". Here's where I kindly ask for some suggestions. I'd like to present some easy-to-tye, but highly effective (i.e. "catchy") Nymph- and Dry-Fly-Patterns, such as: - CDC Once & Away (nope, no peccary-hair, here....... ;-) ) - Deer Hair Emerger - CDC & Elk These are flies I can recommend based on my own positive experience. Would you have any other recommendations for me? Thanks in advance, Obi P.S.: Sry for the typo in the title. I menat "effective", "Effective", yes "EFFECTIVE". Why can't I edit this dang title? ;-)
  9. Dear all, Thanks a bunch for all your Responses so far - some good Points brought up here for sure. I am actually not so obsessed about the Kite's Imperial. In fact, my fishing Buddy brought that question up and I told him it 'll be difficult to follow the material-list. For me, the Kite's Imperial is just a good example. If you read about the history of this dry fly, you'll find things like: Kite was very specific about the honey-dun color of the hackle........... or similar (don't recall the exact wording!!) It's just a similar situation as with other historical patterns, such as the famous Killer Bug. The topic about the Chatwick 477 voodo-yarn was discussed back and forth here already, I 'm sure. It's all about the materials that were available to the originator of a particular pattern at the Point in time when it was 1st tied, right? I strongly believe that a trout could never tell the difference between a barred ginger hackle and a silver badger one from its position at the river bed..... The fish could probably differentiate between a dark color and light color hackle at it's best. Thanks, Obi
  10. Hi all! I am thinking about this question back and forth for quite a while now - and probably some of you do as well: How important is the EXACT hackle-color on a dry fly?? I am certainly not thinking about replacement of a black hackle by a light dun one or vice versa. But would it make much of a difference if you used a grizzly-hackle instead of a blue dun one? Or replace a badger-hackle by brown grizzly? I am not sure about that. Reason I ask: Ever tried to tye a Kite's Imperial? The Abdomen is to be tied with heron herl, and the hackle is supposed to be "honey dun".............. C'm on guys, how many of you hold heron feathers (it's a protected bird!) and honey dun hackles in their box of tying materials? Not me, for sure............ Please let me know your thoughts........ Thanks in advance. Take care, Obi
  11. Dears, can somebody recommend a good step-by-step tying-instruction for a natural-looking heptagenia nymph? Probably an instruction that was "tested and approved" already? For instance, I 've seen the SBS of the Oliver Edwards pattern in a movie, but I felt his nymph pattern is way too complicated. The instruction video is almost 30 minutes long. Given my tying abilities, that would probably take me at least 1 hour plus to tye............. No way! Thanks a bunch in advance, Obi
  12. Dear all, thank you so much for your replies so far! Since the topic of dry & dropper -fishing is new to me: Could you please indicate what hook-size you use for your indicator-flies? They must be fairly big, I suppose. Otherwise they won't support - say - a BH hare's ear in size 12....... No? Thanks & Best, Obi
  13. Hi eberybody! Someone here fishing a dry fly/dropper combination for trout? Yes, I suppose......... What is your best strik indicator fly pattern? Pictures, material lists or links on a step-by-step or so would be just great! I also wonder if you ever picked up a fish with your indocator fly? Thanks in advance! Best, Obi
  14. Dear all, I'd like to ask you about your opinion on the benefit of UV-active tying-materials? Do they actually attract more fish or no? Reason I raise this question: I recently tied some Caddis Pupe on scud hooks, using light brown Bodyglass. The underbody is tied with white Floss to make the abdomen a bit brighter and more shiny. Out of curiosity I tested what will happen when the nymphs are exposed to UV-light. The white underbody literally started to glow in a brigt blue. That gave a nice effect, together with the light-brown bodyglass..... Then I tied a pretty similar pattern, using yellow Bodyglass. Here, the Bodyglass itself started to shine brightly in a chartreuse color when exposed to UV-light. Again, very nice......... However, I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing. What's your opinion / experience on this? Cheers, Obi
  15. Hi everybody! Thanks a bunch for the great input I received in this thread. I got myself a can of compressed air and a plastic bottle with a wide opening. I drilled some holes into the lid - done. Had my 1st test-run with that set-up and was very pleased with the result: A blend of natural hare's ear, dark-pink opossom (sic?) and a few fibes of Ice Dub in fluo-pink. I tied some Walt's Worms in #12 already, and the pattern looks very "juicy". I think that fly will catch - let's see if the fish will agree to that....... Cheers, Obi
  16. Dear whatfly, thanks a bunch for your reply - my actual intent is to mix only a small amount. Sufficient for the douzen :-) Also a good point about the ratio. What I am planning to do is: Tye a hybrid-nymph between Sawyer's Killer-Bug and Walt's Worm. Just to work around this Chadwick 477-kind-a'-thing........ The effect should be the same: A translucent nymph-body with a pink tinge to it. And just a little sparcle....... I should probably add some pink natural opossom dubbing as well, and reduce the UV Ice? Cheers, Obi
  17. Hi everybody! What would be the best way to blend a natural and a synthetic dubbing? I want to generate a mix of 80% natural hare's ear and 20% synthetic UV Ice Dub. The fibers of both dubbings are different in length, and the "mix in waterglass"-method did not work out ........ Any thoughts apprteciated. Cheers, Obi
  18. Hi everybody! I leave all my different dubbings in the small bags they come in. I won't use thos plastic-boxes with the holes drilled in the bottom - I feel that causes the dubbing to "clump". I use a regular, binders - those you use for organizing all your paper stuff in Letter (US:-) or A4 (Europe:-) format. I further use those transparent envelopes that fit into the binder. There are envelopes available which are made for fotos or postcards, I suppose. They come with 4 separate segments, and the dubbing-bags fit in there very well. Easy to organize youd dubbings by color, material or brand, inexpensive and it saves a lot of space:-). Cheers, Obi
  19. Hi everybody! My next project (so-to-speak) is to tye Catgut-like Caddis Pupa Nymphs. However, I plan to use the more easily available Bodyglass instead. Since my first attempts with that material were not too succesful, just a quick question: How do you tye in Bodyglass with with a halfround profile correctly? To achieve nice, segmented bodies, do you tye in the flat side or the round side or the flat side pointing downwards? Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated! Thanks in advance....... Take care, Obi
  20. Dear Simon, Thank you very much for such an EXCELLENT reply! Looks like the Oster-yarn is exactly what I am looking for! Did you do any comparsion in water-soaked condition? Cheers, Michael
  21. Hi everybody! I am using UV reflectant dubbing such as hot orange or hot pink as trigger-points for czech nymphs and other nymph patterns. And - yes - I think it makes a difference. But I never did such thing as a comparison-study..... So only a subjective statement at that point. Cheers, Obi
  22. Dears, Thank you very much for your replies! I read about the Shetland Spindrift yarn before in some article (cannot recall where exactly!), but the author suggested using the sand-tone and then color the yarn additionally with a permanent marker. Did not make too much sense to me. But the oyste-tone seems to be a good match, at least form the pictures that are found in the net. And - best of all - this yarn is also alvailable in Germany, where I am located :-) I also purchades some of the VENIARD killer bug yarn - but that one is of a 'cream' or 'beige' color. It does not seem to match very well with the 477. Cheers, Obi
  23. Dear Piker, Found that article earlier in the net and got my hands on the VENIARDS yarn. I found the stuff on ebay for a reasonable price. But I don't think the VENIARD yarn is a suitable replacement. I would describe the color as 'cream' or 'beige'. Nothing like the 477, which seems to be of a grey-tan-pinkish color..... I think the VENIARD is just a rip-off. Cheers, Obi
  24. Hi everybody! I would like to tye Sawyer's famous Killer Bug. It seems to be an excellent nymph for grayling. Of course, I don't have any of this 'magical' Chadwick's 477 yarn, and I don't want to waste a shad load of money for a card of that stuff either....... The yarn can't be all that magic - can anyone recommend a good replacement for that 477? Cheers, Obi P.S.: Just realized that 'Chadwick' is supposed to be written with a 'D' - but I can't edit the title of my thrad anymore..... Sry.
  25. Hi there! The CDC & Elk is a great pattern. I would also tye up some Crippled CDC & Elk, probably #14 & #16. And also a Diving CDC & Elk. The latter two were recommended to me ny Hans Weilenmann, and they worked great! And then, I would tye up some Adams Palaroop- or Parachute-Patterns. Sizes #14 - #18. They are my to-go-pattern if nothing else works, with the paraloop preferable over the parachute......... Hope, that helps. Take care, Obi
×
×
  • Create New...