Jump to content
Fly Tying

Fletchfishes

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fletchfishes

  1. Hahah - ok, I'll take 50. Think we can get another 1,000 people to join in? I think I might track down some of those 2.5 gallon zipper bags someone mentioned...
  2. Not exactly on topic, but since someone asked about big fish - these guys caught 15 rainbows over 20 lbs in one day: http://www.yellowstoneangler.com/index.php/fly-fishing-travel/jurassic-lake-argentina-huge-rainbows Back on topic, I really like Tom Lynch's Drunk n' Disorderly (I like the fly, not so sure on the name.) It is a big articulated fly that isn't bad to catch and has great action when stripped. Here's a video of someone tying it: https://vimeo.com/109402587
  3. Hi - not trying to ask a trick question, but I probably didn't word it well. If the classic dry fly proportions are based off the hook as follows: Note: not my image - drawn from a fly fisherman article I saved by Charlie Craven. Tail = Length of hook shank Body = 60-75% of hook shank Wing = Length of hook shank Hackle = 1.5 times hook gap Then a different hook shank / gap ratio impacts the look of the fly. In the case of the Allen hooks, the hackle ends up being about the same length as the wings since the hook shank / gap ratio is around 1.5. While in the case of the typical dry fly hook the hackle is shorter than the wing (higher hook shank / gap ratio.) So, my question is: should the wing be longer than the hackle or should it be the same length as the hackle if I tie it on a fly that has a wider hook gap? Apologies - I probably should have asked this one in the beginner section! Thanks.
  4. Hello, I know there are a few folks out there that use the Allen FF Barbless Dry Fly hooks. There is a particular concept I've been struggling with on these hooks that I'd be interested in getting some input on. If you compare the Allen Barbless Dry Fly Hooks (D101BL) to a Tiemco Standard Dry Fly (TMC100) the proportions are a little different. In particular, the shank length seems a little shorter on the Allen hooks. For example, a size #12 D101BL has the same hook gap as a #12 TMC100 but a shank length that is the same as a #14 TMC100. This throws my dry fly dimensions off since some of the dimensions (body, tail and wing) are referenced off the shank while others (hackle) are referenced off the hook gap. Since I measure wing length, body length and tail length off the hook shank and the hackle length off my hackle guage (presumably aligned against a more standard hook dimension like a TMC100), I end up with a dry fly that has the wing, body and tail length of a size #14 fly but the hackle of a #12 when I'm tying on a D101BL in size #12. This means the wing disappears in the hackle and the fly ends up looking somewhat "stubby". How do folks deal with this? Do you build the fly as if it were a #14 (with a larger hook gap)? I don't think I have the option of tying it like a #12 since I don't have the hook shank length of make a properly proportioned body. I'm interested to see how others deal with this. I love the price, strength, sharpness, lack of barb and look of the Allen hooks - but not the non-standard dimensions! For reference, I'm attaching a photo that shows the three different hooks in the example above. The hooks (top to bottom): TMC100 #12, D101BL #12, TMC100 #14. As you can see the hook gap on the middle hook is essentially the same as the top hook while the shank length is closer to the bottom hook. --------- Ok, re-reading my post - I don't think I've been very effective at concisely capturing my thoughts. Let me know if I should try again! The basic question is when you have a non-standard dimension hook, do you go off shank length or hook gap to determine the proper dimensions of the fly? Thanks!
  5. Cool. I never heard back from the place that I requested the quote from. Let me know what you hear - I'm definitely interested if we can get a group buy going.
  6. Is that a chandelier in the top of the second picture? Love the desk - looks like a great setup!
  7. Can't I just have an F'ing ball of yarn? These toys suck!
  8. Couldn't agree more with the recommendation for the Whiting starter pack. If you want to learn more, there have been a couple of excellent links. Here is one more article that I think will give you a great start on understanding the factors to consider when buying dry hackle: http://singlebarbed.com/2010/10/11/chicken-scalps-large-dollars-fly-tying-and-dry-flies-merely-add-a-pretty-face/
  9. Rockworm- thanks for the offer! I'll send you a PM depending upon what I find.
  10. Flytire- No, I don't scour the Internet every time I purchase a Whiting product (or other capes or saddle for that matter.). However, I have a number of capes that were bought at shows that do not have bags. Rather than fold them up in gallon ziplocks, I'm looking for a better way. So long as I'm looking, I might as well looks for the best option. The uline bags sound great, but I'm not excited about purchasing 1,000 bags.
  11. Yep - two zippers so you don't have to go against the grain of feathers when pulling the cape out. Agreed on the size. The typical Whiting bag is ~3.25 x 15" for a half cape. I was thinking something like 4 x 15" in 3 mil material (I think Whiting bags are 2 mil) with two zippers instead of one. Does that sound right? Or would it make more sense to get a 4 x 16 which is the size of the typical Whiting half saddle bag? Once I get a quote I'll ask how much for a small order.
  12. Thanks for the tip. I did see those options but don't really need 1,000 bags.
  13. I requested a quote from an online company that manufactures zipper locking bags that does small orders for custom bags. If I hear back, I'll let you know. Maybe we can get a "group buy" going.
  14. I have some capes I purchased at shows that didn't come with the standard hackle poly bag, so I'm looking for some bags that fit a cape better than a gallon ziploc bag. Does anyone know of a place to buy reclosable (ziploc) bags that have openings on both ends? Ideally bag in a size that would support the storage of a half or full cape? I'm thinking something like 4x15? I managed to find a patent on the design I'm talking about. Interesting to see that the patent actually references fly tying materials: https://www.google.com/patents/US20060171608 Seems like something that would be available, but I haven't been able to find it. If these don't exist, does anyone know where I could buy single opening reclosable bags in the 3x14-4x15 range? I can't find anyone selling them outside of wholesales and really don't want to buy a carton of 1,000 bags! Thanks!
  15. Wow - heck of a fish! It looks like you took a mounted fish from a mantle in some fishing lodge and stuck it in the water!
  16. Thanks again for the tips everyone. Crackaig, I used your approach with a few changes: -I dubbed all the way up before bringing the foam forward -Used z-lon for the wing -Tied off the hackle where I tied off the foam before bringing the thread forward to tie off the post and whip finish I'll try to post a photo when I have a chance to snag one. Thanks for the tips - using the wing as the past was easier than tying in a separate thread!
  17. I really like the look of this beetle pattern. Apparently it is tied by Jonny King. Has anyone seen a step by step for this tie? I'd love to tie up a bunch but am struggling with the idea of how to get the foam tied in with the parachute post and poly under-wing.
  18. Love the collection, thanks for posting! While we're discussing skins, Here is a bird that I've never seen in tying catalogs that seems pretty common in certain areas and would be a great material. was recently visiting Hawaii and these birds were everywhere: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erckel%27s_francolin I kept finding myself daydreaming about the wonderful soft hackles they would make.
  19. Thanks for the post - great information, I learned a bunch. Mind sharing how you created the guard hair wing on the last version? I think I need to add some of those to my fly box for next season.
  20. Thanks Crackaig. I'll try tapering it next time I'm on the water.
  21. I've been watching this thread with some interest - thanks to everyone for the lively discussion. I do have a quick question: I tried a furled leader (0-3 wt Cutthroat Ultimate Dry Fly) on my 3 Wt this year. I fish a river that typically has casts <40 ft but that requires 3' of 7x/8x tippet due to pressure and water clarity. I had trouble getting the leader to rollout the light tippet. My question: is this likely caused by casting issues (wouldn't be a surprise) or am I asking to much of the leader by tying 8x tippet directly to the tiny ring at the end of this leader? If it's the later, I suppose I could taper the tippet (e.g. start with 5x and work down to 7x) but it feels like that defeats one of the major benefits of the furled leader.
×
×
  • Create New...