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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by tctrout

  1. It's the end of March; time to get my last fly in:
  2. The usual suspects thus far, and I will add another: Black or Olive Woolly Bugger. The only difference is that I prefer mine tied with a peacock body; tough to beat peacock on ANY fly! Anybody find a way to put it on a Clouser yet??? ;-)
  3. Here's a fun variation of the classic; with a soft hackle, bead head, and even some peacock ice dubbing!
  4. You're welcome, and I appreciate the comments.
  5. I'm from PA, too, and this is what I fish for the pupa: For the dry, it can vary, but I choose a dark grey...good luck!
  6. FYI: Here's a brief tutorial I put together for some beginning fly tyers.
  7. My newest video, tying the Lightning Bug Bead Head nymph (orange for this one); enjoy!
  8. It's about time we have some love for the Irish; nice work! My most recent YouTube video, tying the Clown Shoe Caddis:
  9. This problem can occur if there is not a buildup of materials underneath the skull. To double-check, are you using super glue? Placing the skull on, and then tying in front of it to finish the head? Upon applying the super glue, the skull is very rigid and I have few problems with it turning. When I attempt to finish and it does turn, I typically will go over the head with some dubbing, wire, or thread, and then coat all with a thin layer of super glue. Finally, the skull gets slid over, and then I reattach thread in the front to help snug the skull against the fly. Here's a recent video that shows the correct finishing technique; hope this helps!
  10. Sure; here are a couple easy ones that are tied mainly for trout:
  11. Excellent first video, Colton; thanks for sharing, and hope to see more in the future.
  12. Thanks for sharing this pattern, Mike. I like how you mentioned the ability to change the color of the vinyl ribbing by simply changing your thread color underneath. I will do this frequently with clear vinyl ribbing, and believe that it can be quite effective. I also love to place tinsel underneath the ribbing, too, for added flash; here's a YouTube video I just posted yesterday that shows the difference between one with and one without tinsel under the vinyl rib:
  13. Our season is so close; thanks for reminding me. What materials are you using in this pattern? Thanks, TC
  14. Neat article to reference; I haven't read it before. As far as patterns, I agree that Flytyinfreak is spot-on; if a fish will eat it, then they eat it. I do fish in very high-pressured areas, thus I tend to tie more parachutes, no-hackles, and comparaduns simply for the reasons you suggest. The Catskill dry flies look awfully pretty, but I do have more success on other styles of flies. TC
  15. I know what you mean, Evan; I tied the Sculpin Bugger last week and those helmets work great!
  16. I prefer barbless hooks (or pushing barb down prior to fishing). I got started with this habit when, as a beginning tyer, one teacher instructed us to debarb the hooks prior to tying. This ensured that if the hooks was tempered incorrectly, they would break in our vise versus after tying a pattern. I have had few hooks actually break due to the tempering over the last 20 years, but I feel that this is good practice, especially when attempting to get a hook out of something (or even someone!).
  17. Thanks for the news; here's a video of Mr. Franke tying a caddis pupa:
  18. Another funny one...and I loved the wire cutters! TC
  19. Great job on that tie; lots of excellent patterns this month so far! Here's my most recent that I tied for YouTube; it's a Charlie Boy Hopper, which was created by Charlie Craven. Enjoy...
  20. I have rarely used any glue when tying a parachute off; I'm more in the "hold back the hackle" camp of tying. Here's a video that shows the main way I finish a parachute. The differing parts that I mention in the video is that @ times, I will first tie the hackle directly onto the post and then go to the tail/body of the fly. I will also finish the hackle by wrapping thread over it, thereby locking the hackle into the post. Even with that to lock the hackle in, I still "hold back the hackle" and whip finish on the hook. Tim
  21. tctrout


    Awesome material that is useful for all types of flies. Here's an example of a pupa in which the cdc is fished under the water. It's also useful to coat this fly with a silica to help capture air bubbles as this fly is underwater: Tim Coating cdc with ANY goo is pure sacriledge! The whole structure of cdc is the very thing that traps the air bubbles, using any sybstance other than powder to dry the fly ruins the efect of the cdc Flytyinfreak, I'm going to have to completely disagree...respectfully, of course. Applying "goo" versus a material such as Frog's Fanny is completely different, and I am discussing the latter (hence by my use of the word "silica"). The application of this material allows for an incredible amount of air bubbles to be latched onto the fly, thus creating an effect that the fly is emerging (exactly the same as a natural caddis). Does this ruin the effect of the cdc? Possibly. The cdc is intended to be a leg material and, being that the fly is submerged, this impact you are criticizing makes little sense. Applying "goo" is definitely not a desirable method with cdc, though there is one flotant that is "goo-like" and still works on cdc: Tiemco's Magic Dry Fly Flotant. I will apply that to a cdc when fishing a dry fly, but still prefer the powder both when submerging and fishing dry. Hope this makes sense... TC
  22. For the record, that's a great start! My first ones looked CRAZY! Keep it going, and be sure to post more of your patterns in the future. I have a couple dry flies (Bullethead caddisfly and Irresistible) on my YouTube page that involve spinning deer hair. It's definitely a fun technique in this game, and really helps make many patterns effective. Tim http://www.youtube.com/tctrout
  23. tctrout


    Awesome material that is useful for all types of flies. Here's an example of a pupa in which the cdc is fished under the water. It's also useful to coat this fly with a silica to help capture air bubbles as this fly is underwater: Tim
  24. This information is very consistent with a lot of the books I have seen, and an excellent resource is Mike Harding's "A Guide to North Country Flies." He ties the majority of his feathers to the hook barb/bend, and though I agree with his methods, I personally tend to extend the hackle on my own. This varies with the fly I'm tying, but I tend to concentrate more on the amount of feathers versus their length. Here's a recent video of a fly I tied with Hungarian Partridge soft hackle; the length was extended nearly over the bend, which helps to represent the caddis is a number of stages: Tim
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