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Fly Tying

Hatchet Jack

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Posts posted by Hatchet Jack


  1. Maxima Chameleon mono of various lengths, 40# ------->30#------>15#--------->then a

    17# wire tippet to a re-worked Duo-Lock snap (a needle nose pliers is required to

    change flies at the snap).

     

    Loop-to-loop from fly line to 40#, then blood knots & Zap-A-Gap on other mono knots, then

    an Albright knot at the mono to wire tippet.

     

    The 15# mono to 17# tippet acts as a fuse in the event of an unreachable snag.

    Loses a fly, but saves a $95 fly line.

     

    The Maxima mono is a very good monofilament line!

    Good knot strength, excellent abrasion resistance.

     


  2. This may be of some help regarding it's use in the USA, and all her vices vises.

    (not to leave out Canada, oops)

     

    http://outsmartingfish.com/2014/06/bug-bond-pro-pedal/

    "Note: For tyers in the U.S., a voltage adapter needs to be purchased

    in order for the pedal to work. The adapter can be found at most

    electronics stores, and is around 10-15 USD."

     

     

    http://thefeatherbender.com/2013/06/26/pedal-power-for-bug-bond/

    Scroll down through the link & you'll see a photo of the power supply.

    I'd bet the little silver plug coming off the power supply cord

    goes into a jack right on the footswitch itself.

     

    If you're handy and don't mind possibly letting all the smoke out,

    building a rig on you own isn't impossible. Main thing would be

    determining the necessary forward voltage required across the

    diode(s).


  3. From C. -

     

    ",,,The "hackle" on this one being formed from guard hair tips from the mask set into split thread...

    Always buy it on the mask...The hair comes "sorted" on the skin, you can find what you want all

    together in different places on the mask...One note on tying with hare's ear. Primrose coloured

    silk shows the material off to best effect."

     

    This advice just upped the game on tying a buggy G.R.H.E. for us, kudos.


  4. My 2 ¢ worth (?), without actually seeing the gizmo:

     

    " Mains" AC voltage, stepped down to some low-level AC via transformer, rectified to some filtred regulated DC voltage, then outputted to the footswitch (we don't want AC mains voltage present at the footswitch, no way). A simple on/off switch within the footpedal turns the UV diode on or off.

     

    Silver's spot on here, there would be no 'increased' power per se, albeit the fact that the voltage across the diode(s) would remain constant over time, as opposed to a slowly decreasing battery voltage.


  5. I fish quite a bit out of my canoe which has an outrigger & trolling motor.

    Sometimes I'll slow troll a full sink line to take a break from casting.

    One morning I had a hit that whipped my rod tip down and into the water,

    I thought for sure I had a Moby Dick on the fly.

     

    Did a hard strip-set and nothing moved, so I though oh buggers another snag.

    Turns out the fly line had gotten spun up on the prop, tighter than a wad of

    cotton candy. No Moby Dick that morning, just a creased line and a sheepish grin ohmy.png

     

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