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Swamp Fly

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Everything posted by Swamp Fly

  1. Bwahahaha! That's awesome. Didn't realize how much I needed a laugh. Thank you. Oh, and nice fly too... Swamp
  2. Don't you mean you need to get the "Bluefather's" approval? Don't blame you, waking up next to a horse head is disconcerting especially one that's been painted blue... Swamp
  3. Nope, sorry Mike blue is an automatic 10'-20' distance penalty. I thought that's why you liked blue so much, so you could rise to the challenge. 😁 Swamp
  4. Thanks, good to know. Never had one in my hand and you know what it's like to read what a MFG has to say about their own product, I always feel like I just shook hands with a politician afterwards. I might pick one up sometime when they are on sale. Great another blank and I haven't even built what I've already got. Lol Swamp
  5. Great work as always! What do you think of the CRB fly blanks? I've looked at them on and off but have yet to pull the trigger. Swamp
  6. Good news indeed! Hopefully you can find some paying customers too! I'm actually thinking about venturing out in the next week or two provided the current trend continues. Let's hope so and not just because I'm itching to go fish. Swamp
  7. Landon, Pick a simple fly that needs a dubbed body and use three different methods of adding the dubbing, ie. dubbing noodle, split thread, and loop. I'm choosing this because I see in your photos that you have dubbing on your pegboard. and/or Tie two or three hoppers (or any type of fly) that use very different techniques to represent the same insect. and/or Tie a dragonfly nymph to use as a dropper for the foam dragonfly that you tied. and/or Tie another extended body dragonfly that uses some of that hollow bucktail instead of foam. If you don't have blue/black/brown/tan/yellow then use a marker to color the white you have. Tie one that has two colors of hair top and bottom. Figure out how to keep the colors from mixing. Tie one that uses the method that the Carnage flys use, SBPlat has an SBS of this here on the site. For that matter follow any of his SBS posts... Don't have a particular material? Look around see if you have something that comes close. Wrong color? Who cares? Bass aren't that picky most days. Hackle to large? Trim it down. Remember, the fish that acts like it has a PHD may be hit in the head with a box full of dumb next time you see it, most of what we do to our flies just makes us happy not the fish. Pick a technique you don't know then pick the fly to use it on not the other way around. You can also just practice the technique then razor blade it off the hook, try again till you get it. You don't need to have a finished fly when you are done. Techniques are usually just a means to and end, not the goal itself. Some particular fish doesn't care about what technique you used to tie a fly just if it looks like food. Tie the same fly six times in a row even if you can't in one sitting. Take a good hard look at each once finished and see what is good and what could be better. Make the next one better than the last. Do you like what you see? Is it because it's "yours" or because it really is good/bad? Come back in a week and look at them again. Take all of the flys out and prove to yourself that all of them can catch a fish. You didn't like the way your bucktail flared, right? Next time something like this comes up think about why a material did what it did. How do you change the outcome? Use a different technique? Different material? Learn to think critically. Develop a passion for how things work and why. BTW those things are good to know in life regardless of the situation. Learn to do it now, before you go off to college or pursue a career. Don't be the guy whose answer is "duh, I duknow" when the boss asks for suggestions. Swamp
  8. I don't know Mike, I've raised and butchered a lot of chickens and ducks. But in this case I expect it's more of a family pet situation so... Sorry Mark! BTW do you have any photos of the cave paintings depicting you and your wooly when you were young? 🤣 Swamp
  9. Flytire, this series is looking great!
  10. Landon, On the fly that you tied you can see the hair bulging out a little between wraps, that is a sign of hollow hair flaring. I also agree with Mark, don't wrap quite as far back. Stop when you are over the hook point and then assess if you should tie back any further. With larger hooks I'll tie back just a bit more (I've tied Clousers down to #16 and up to at least 5/0). You may also want to add a modest amount of flash to the wing, either before you tie the wing on or in the middle if you add more than one clump. The hair at the very base of most bucktails is hollow just like body hair is and it will flare if you crank on it. FYI, some bucktails have more of this hair than others. The hair just a little further up the tail will transition to solid hair that won't flare. If you need to use hollow hair yet don't want it to flare then use looser wraps. As you wrap you will see how much pressure you can use before it flares. If you are worried about not securing the hair well enough, you can tie down the base of the hair with more pressure and taper off pressure as you get away from the tie in point or you can come back and add firmer wraps toward the front of the fly after getting the hair to lay the want you want. Be aware that compressing the hair later can make the looser wraps pucker up and the fly might not look as clean (not that the fish care). As a general rule hollow hair is much more fragile than its more solid counterpart and can get chewed off by fish easier. Coating the hair and thread with some UV resin, epoxy, or cement can help with durability. I use UV resin for convenience. Ideally I put a coat on all of mine regardless of if the hair is hollow or not before I add the wing, but if nothing else I make sure the hair that spans the dumbbell eyes has a good covering when I coat the head of the fly when finished. None the less your fly is respectable as it is, good job. Swamp. Edited to add that the second fly is much better. Loogie's examples are spot on.
  11. I that case I'd switch to a 60* jig hook. I've switched most of my flies that I want to ride hook point up to this style of hook. Just the tiniest amount of weight will really force point up orientation. That is an advantage when you don't want to dredge the bottom. I haven't tied anything really tiny that way but I don't see an issue if you can find the hooks. Swamp
  12. That's pretty much what I was alluding to. Had not seen the hair scales before but it made sense that you could. Neat process. I probably have all the parts for stabilizing wood etc. laying around (sans the resin) to do it but I've never done it. It's kinda on my list but since I haven't made a knife in a decade it's going to be a while. Make a nice reel seat too. Mark, how hard are the stabilized teeth? I wonder if you could make stripping guide inserts out pieces of stabilized tooth. A matching reel seat with all custom nickel hardware could look amazing on a bamboo rod. Swamp
  13. Not sure, but that was the first thing that popped into my head. Never seen the movie either. Swamp
  14. How do you keep those from floating on their sides? Swamp
  15. LOL Mike! Fifty Shades of Grey...Fox Flys! Swamp
  16. Yes, This. Attach the handle to yourself with whatever method you like (big zinger, bungee etc.). I have on many occasions had my forward movement arrested only to find my net firmly anchoring me to some obstacle that I had just passed. I don't even want to think about how many replacement nets I would have needed to buy over the years if I had solely relied on the magnetic holder to keep my net attached to my person. Set up your net just like in the photo above so you can reach around behind you to grab the handle without any fuss. Swamp
  17. Capt Bob, I once saw a guy use one of those to retrieve a boat and not even the tires got wet. I was impressed. Come to think about it that was the one and only time I launched down in Flamingo. Maybe it was you! Swamp
  18. I'm certainly interested to see what you come up with. Why do I sense an "exotic" or archeological materials fly swap coming? lol Not Fly related, but it might make be interesting if you made a "stabilized" block out of it and used it to make a sheath for one of your mammoth tooth handled knives. That would make for a conversation piece. Now if you can get some mammoth skin to tan for leather, some mammoth bone, mammoth ivory, some mammoth coprolite... Swamp
  19. I'll bet there are a lot of fish out there that feel pretty dumb right about now! LOL That is a great looking pattern and as your presentations always are it is superbly tied. Swamp
  20. I suspect this is a contributing factor. The traditional use of lead wire on this fly, other than to add extra weight, is to help lock the bead up against the eye of the hook. The closer that weight is placed to the bend of the hook the more it will negate the keeling effect of the hook point and bend. This is not really a good or bad thing per se depending on what you want the fly to do. If you weight the front the fly it will dive nose first when you pause your retrieve. If you have it in the middle then the hook shank will stay perpendicular(ish) to the surface of the water. If you back weight the fly it will sink butt first and may also kick the butt around to the side some on a pause. Weight placement alone does not determine all of this. What kind of material you use to tie the fly and how it is oriented also makes a huge difference. Keeping most of the material above or below the hook shank affects fly orientation dramatically. How heavy your tippet is and what kind of knot you use also can have a dramatic effect. Under what conditions you are fishing also makes a difference, I've found that swinging a fly can make a fly invert as compared to stripping the same fly in still water. As an example and a bit of a tangent. A bait fish pattern that is very low drag but has a little heft to it that is tied onto light/flexible tippet and a loop knot will dart to the side/up/down if you fish it correctly in a no/low current situation. Flys like that take some practice, design, and deliberate application of specific materials. You can have elements of a fly that work against each other for better or worse. Adding weight through lead or hook weight to a traditional dry fly is usually counter productive. Adding a touch of weight to the nose of a diving fly can help it dive as compared to slide across the top of the water. You can also use materials and weight to counteract how the other affects movement and orientation. As others have pointed out with a fly like the woolly bugger that is tied in the round, I don't think it makes much of a difference in regards to how fishable the fly is. So unless you want the hook point riding point up or adjust how the fly behaves I'd use the lead wire to help lock the bead in place at the front of the fly. However I would encourage you play around with the variables so you can understand and control what a fly does. Cheers. Swamp
  21. Yep, my favorite specialty tool for those jets is a dremel and cut-off wheel so I can cut a slot for a screwdriver. I too have a collection of those specialty tools. They just seen to get sucked into another dimension the instance I need them only to reappear exactly where they should have been in the first place at a later date. I theory is they like to go party with the socks that never make it out of the clothes dryer. Swamp
  22. Kimo, have you noticed a durability advantage using bead chain as compared to shanks? Depending on the species of fish, could the beads might keep the materials somewhat protected? I might be grasping here. Swamp
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