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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by wschmitt3

  1. I'm surprised to hear that you don't like Comcast. I had them for years when I lived on the other side of Vermont, I literally only had two outages in probably 6 years and I never had any complaints about equipment or how any thing works. Charter provides almost the exact same service as Comcast so I don't have any complaints about my current service. Except for the dropping of WFN. King of the River was awesome. One of the best if not the best fishing show I've ever seen.
  2. I watch a lot of the fly fishing shows on WFN and they just took the program off of the charter line up. Any one else have this happen?
  3. The air lock is an interesting product. I think I would stick to a thingamabobber for the type of application that these two products would be used for. The thingamabobber seems a little more reliable. I could see the plastic threads wearing out or coming loose. If your looking for the effect of suspending the fly at a 90 degree angle from the indicator Lightning Strike foam strike indicators do a bang up job of that. Mike - The benefit of the yarn indicator (in addition to fishforlife's reasons) is a very gentile landing.They make almost no disturbance on the surface of the water when they land and in places with lots of fishing pressure i feel like it not looking like normal bobbers or strike indicators is a big benefit.
  4. Try steam. Its really really dry in my apartment during the winter and I have had luck reducing breakage with peacock herl by waving it in front of the steam vent on my kettle for a few seconds.
  5. Mike this discussion is nothing like a discussion about whether or not to have kids, that's a really strange thing to say. Secondly you cant cast a size 18 dry fly on a 12 foot straight mono leader and I've tried nymph fishing a straight 9' foot leader and it was terrible it simply didn't work. While a tapered leader does add an extra degree of complexity (a very small degree) the straight mono leader doesn't work for most fishing situations. In my opinion it isn't the answer in most situations and in a lot of fly fishing situations it just flat out wont work. Tapered knotless and hand tied tapered leaders are a necessary part of fishing for trout with a dry fly and in my experience a straight mono leader doesn't work for nymph fishing for trout.
  6. I use Para-post yarn as a strike indicator and it works great. I treat it with loon gel floatant let them air dry and then put them in a bag. I have used the same hunk of yarn for several days of fishing with out retreating. So far this method has been my favorite and cheapest method. Between the yarn and the small diameter water tubing I doubt I have 6 dollars into it and that will make dozens of indicators. Just cut up the tubing into small sections and loop the line through. Put the yarn into the loop and pull through the tubing.
  7. I am a brown wooly bugger fan. I use all brown materials and try to get all the materials as close to the color of the brown marabou I use. There is tons of crayfish in all the rivers I fish and they all have a fairly dark brown color to them so I use the brown bugger and fish it slow with short pulls right on the bottom and I do pretty well when ever I fish like that.
  8. I want to catch a 20" trout this year rainbow or brown either one. I have yet to reach that mark and I think it is time. I may just follow the trophy stocking schedule and hit up a few of the spots where they are dropping off big fish but I have been clued into a few places near by where some browns grow big and feed very heavily on minnows and crayfish for a few weeks after the thaw.
  9. I agree with Christopher K, Rio Mainstream is an excellent line for $40. I have one on my 4 weight, I've had four different lines on that rod and the Mainstream is by far my favorite. It has held up great and casts very well. I plan on replacing the Rio Gold on my 3 weight with a Mainstream this spring. I also agree with him in the thought that the line is one of the most important parts of your system. There is nothing more frustrating than a line that doesn't cast well. I have had a couple and they really took the enjoyment out of fishing.
  10. Here are the individual shots. They are - Caddis Pupa, Guides Choice, Blurry Red Copper John, Black CJ, Copper Brown Copper J, Hare's Ear, Pheasant Tail, A Flashy Soft Hackle Attractor (for brookies), Herl Nymph, Hares Ear Grub/Caddis, WD40, Vermont Caddis (AKA Hare's Ear Caddis), Dette Caddis Variant (sub hungarian partridge for Deer hair), X-Caddis,
  11. Tied up a whole mess of flies in the last few weeks. Here is a small sample of them. I am terrible at photographing flies. Ive got to work on that, but here they are. There is some black beadhead flashback hare's ears, guides choice hares ears, hares ears, Red and Copper Brown Copper Johns, Pheasant tails, Bead head Pheasant tail, a Flashback Pheasant Tail on a scud hook with an z-lon shuck, and a very flashy green caddis pupa. I tied 4-6 of several sizes of each of these and a few other patterns since saturday probably 125 or so flies in all. Its restocking time!
  12. I was thinking the same thing as flytire. If it were me and I needed a fly to fit a certain need I would just find a different fly that works that I have the materials needed. I had pretty good luck with a harrop's hair wing dun tied on a scud hook this summer. The copper wire on this pheasant tail version allows the body to ride under the surface very nicely.
  13. Check the online retailers clearance items I see regular 6 and 7 weight weight forward floating lines on clearance online all the time and check ebay for new old stock (new in box) fly lines. You could get last years model of a topnotch fly line for mid range prices.
  14. In my opinion its usefulness (as said before) lies in the fact that it gets down there where the fish are and because its there they taste it and get stuck. I like the copper John not because it is really effective because it is not (IMO) but because it is really heavy and it gets a fish to look then when they refuse the Copper J they have the chance to check out the fly I trail off of it. I never fish the copper john by it self, always with a trailer.
  15. Thats crazy but I love it. BTW..... Ive been meaning to mention this, not sure if you know or not but it is Elwood Blues not Elmwood.
  16. Not a stupid question at all. I have had a couple RIO lines and have been very happy with them I have two for my 7 weight (outbound short and a 15' sink tip 6)and they are insane. Plus I have the Mainstream on my 4-weight and I'm very happy with that line especially at the price I paid for it. Rio can be rather expensive if purchased at full price, but no more so than orvis or any of the other high end fly fishing brands. edit - the link is the same seller I got my WF4F Rio Mainstream from also.
  17. No problem, My BVK 3 Weight can be converted between 8' and 10' and I prefer the 8' foot 3 weight over my 8'6" 4 weight hands down when I am way up stream fishing for headwater brook trout even the 6" makes a difference when there is lots of tree cover. Also consider this one, same as the one I use on my 4 weight, and I'm probably going to purchase one of the two they have available for my three weight instead of a full price GPX. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RIO-MAINSTREAM-TROUT-WF3F-3WT-FLOATING-FLY-LINE-FREE-SHIPPING-/290977885478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bfa22d26
  18. No problem, I was actually mistaken I have a Rio Mainstream on it I changed out the GPX last season. The Mainstream and GPX are almost exactly the same weight and taper profile so its really not much (if any) diffrence at all. I'm not that familiar with orvis lines so I looked up the tapers and weights, I looked up the orvis Hydro 3d and found only the Hydros HD for sale on the orvis website but I looked up the Hydros 3d which must be a previous year's model and found the taper info. I would say if that's what you have on it go with that, but If you are going out to buy a new line and want it to be Orvis I would go for the Clearwater WF3F it is slightly heavier than the Hydros 3d at 111 grains (half size up from standard) and with a shorter front taper you get more weight on the first 10' of line (improved loading on short cast) and its $60 cheaper than the Hydros HD currently being sold on their website. Edit - the info I got was actually for the line called Hydros not hydros 3d, the hydros HD has no taper or weight infor and the Hydros 3d doesnt have the info for the 3 weight listed. Clear water - http://www.orvis.com/p/clearwater-fly-line/5a3h Hydros - http://www.orvis.com/p/hydros-trout-lines/3h40 3D - http://www.orvis.com/p/hydros-3d-wf-trout/4x5r
  19. I have a 8'6" 4 weight Lefty Kreh Professional I use it for mostly for small streams and I fish it with a 4 weight Scientific Anglers GPX. For the short casts I use it for it works great and it makes a very nice dry fly cast at 30-40 feet on the rare occasion I use it for that. The GPX is slightly over weight when compared to the industry standard for its line size so it loads the rod well in close. I am guessing your going to be casting mostly small nymphs and dry flies with this rod so I would suggest the GPX. You have a short rod medium-fast action rod with a small line size so your not ever going to find a line to get the advantage in casting heavy rigs, so get a good line that will help that rod to what it is made to do which is stealthily present small flies. I really would not suggest going up a full line size on that rod. I had a 5 weight 333+ on my 4-weight Professional and it cast like crap at all distances. The action on The Professional is not very fast so a line a full size heavier line does not give you any sort of advantage. You will not achieve higher line speeds or more distance from over loading the rod. I also have a 3 weight TFO BVK which is a much faster rod than the professional and I am going to be fishing a GPX on that as well next season since it is a little heavier than the Rio Gold I have on it now (Also the rio's loop and first 10 or so feet is thrashed from getting wrapped up in a submerged tree limb last summer and it no longer floats or casts well)
  20. Matthews X-Caddis is a really good fly to start tying also. I cant believe that a dry fly costs $2.75. That is....... CRAZY!!!!!! I bought a bunch of royal wulffs from some cheapie online fly retailer like Big Y or Fly Shack my first year of fly fishing and they weren't exactly top notch but they fished and caught fish. I doubt they cost more than .65 cents each.
  21. Slivercreek - I'm with you on that thought. The Royal Wulff is a tough fly to tie well, definitely not a beginner fly. I can tie a pretty good number of dry flies to my satisfaction but the Royal Wulff is one that I have yet to master (not that I would claim to have mastered any aspect of fly tying). I have tied a few that I have fished but and caught fish on but they were far from perfect.
  22. One of my favorite flies to tie and with out a doubt one of my most productive nymphs. I have how ever stopped using the original pattern. I have swapped out the hare's ear tail for Hungarian partridge and I add a flashback wing case. I swapped out the hare's ear tail for the partridge because it is just a lot faster to tie. I was low on them one day last summer and wanted to whip out a half dozen or so before an after noon on the river and the partridge was sitting there so I figured why not save a few minutes on each fly. Long story short I still caught two fish on the variant that day and several on subsequent days out so that's how I tie it now.
  23. Spirit River Fine and Dry and Waspi Superfine are both top notch dry fly dubbings that will provide you with any color you could possibly need for tying dry flies.
  24. J-Kno - I am going to replace the jaws and keep it around.
  25. That fly is awesome. I have yet to get down to tying that small. An extended body mayfly on a size 22 is crazy. I applaud your tying skill.
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