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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by wschmitt3

  1. Bryon, Thanks for the comments. Sadly I don't think I'll be hooking a 16" trout of any kind this summer, not on my home stream at least. The river got very very low and very warm at the end of last month due to a lack of rainfall and the nice rainbows from previous years stocking moved out to the Connecticut River for deeper cooler water. I'm still catching the stocked browns (10") from this year and native brookies up stream but not the 14-18" rainbows I was hooking at the end of April and early May. -Will
  2. So, this is my first swap. I am not totally clear on exactly how many flies I will need to tie. Thanks for including me I'm really excited. -Will
  3. I would like to participate. Would the Carey Special be OK?
  4. That's funny. I just received some purple ice dub for tying up some of these. I'll probably sit down and whip some up today.
  5. I have never heard of them up here in Vermont. I suppose its possible but haven't heard.
  6. By less is more I'm guessing you mean less material not length. By DNA Fibers do you mean Holo Fusion?
  7. They are standard dry fly hooks. They are not 1xf. They are a bronze color hook.
  8. I like the idea of peacock Ice Dub but don't really like the looks of it.
  9. I think I just got turned on to Allen Fly fishing for hooks and beads. Good prices. Veteran Discount. And Free Shipping?
  10. Jaydub, nice tutorial. Thanks. Thanks for sharing that article flytire and hairwing. So much info. This is the thing I find so fascinating about tying flies. There is literally no end to learning new patterns, methods, techniques and tricks.
  11. I purchased a little tube of Loon Aquel last year for like $6 it works great. I use it on my the New Zealand Strike indicators I make and on dry flies. A tiny bit goes a loooooooong way. I use it quite often and still have more than half the bottle. In addition I also keep a little shake thing of Loon Top Ride (purchased specifically for CDC Flies but I have used on standard dry flies and the like). I like it ok. I'm not really sure how I feel about how the white powder sticking to the fly but it does dry the fly and it does float quite well after treatment and I haven't noticed the white powder keeping the fish from biting the fly. It was a little more spendy at around $9.
  12. Mikechell, they are dry flies. The Spinner is an imitation of a mayfly that has completed its reproductive cycle and fallen to the surface of the water dead or nearly dead (not quite sure on that point). I have used waspi superfine dry fly dubbing and the parapost wing material on the rusty color is very buoyant. I use it for New Zealand style strike indicators I make my self. With a little drop of floatant applied it will suspend even my heaviest flies catch after catch for a whole day of fishing. The z-yarn may not float as well but with some dry fly floatant it should work pretty well. With that said I actually did not intend to use the z-yarn I grabbed the wrong material and tied those grey ones before I realized my mistake.
  13. That sounds like an old timers tale.
  14. I suppose crinkly was the wrong term. The para post wings splay out more and don't lay flat. The z-yarn spread out on an even plane. I suppose its probably not that important. Being overly critical.
  15. Tied up some spinners. First attempt at this type of fly (I think). I tied the grey bodied ones with dun rooster hackle tails and Montana fly company Z-Yarn wings. The Rusty Brown Spinners have split micro-fibbet tails and parapost wing material for wings. I think I like the z-yarn wings better and split tails are more realistic. The parapost wing material is to crinkly I think
  16. I use the Umpqua U-Series hooks for 2x (u103) and 3x nymph (u104), 4x long streamer (u302), Standard dry fly (u001). I am also pretty sure that my scud hooks/curved nymph hooks and curved multipurpose (hopper & stimulator type) hooks are a Umpqua product. At around $6 for a 50 pack of hooks I think they are a good deal and work great for me.
  17. I would encourage you to stay away from material kits. I started with a material kit from Cabela's and found the materials to be of substandard quality. I feel like I wasted at least $40 on that kit. My recommendation would be to pick up a good beginners fly tying guide. My first book was The Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying by Ted Leeson and Jim Schollmeyer. This is a great book for the beginner it was indispensable for me. It has both a large number of patterns and instruction for tying procedures. Once you have your book pick a couple patterns you want to tie and purchase high quality materials specifically for those flies. I also consider YouTube an indispensable resource. There are quite a few channels with great tying instruction videos both for techniques and specific patterns. You could certainly get into tying for $150 but I would encourage you to try to squirrel away a little more if you want to get rolling with some good equipment right off the bat. I also purchased the Dr. Slicks kit to start off with and still use all of those tools just about every time I sit down. That is a good place to start. I use a Danvise and really like it. I like the price point and I have never had a complaint about it in going on 8 months of use several times a week. It costs between $80-$100. I cant recommend another less expensive vise because I have never used another. As far as materials You could most certainly pick up the materials to tie any number of fly patterns for $15-$20 each. Your ideas for starter patterns are right on. Buggers are fairly cheap to tie as are hare's ears
  18. Great, thanks for the feedback. I figured I wasn't doing anything crazy because I liked the end result. Forming the dubbing loop is something I've seen a time or two but never incorporated into a pattern. Ill have to give it a whirl.
  19. Really nice. I have been considering using some of those fish masks. What is the body material?
  20. Looking for opinions on wrapping peacock herl. When tying flies with peacock herl like P.T. Nymph, Prince, and Zug Bugs I typically attach the peacock herl using the following method. First I line up the tips and snip off about a quarter inch. I then attach them to the rear of the hook shank. Once attached I twist the herl (typically 2 or 3 strands) until it looks like a rope with none of the stem visible. Then as I wrap I it comes untwisted a little so I twist it back into shape. Then (obviously) when I reach the point I want to stop I tie it off with a couple wraps. I came to this technique on my own (I think, don't remember seeing it any where) when tying a few months ago because I found that when I was using herl I could see the stem in my flies and felt like it was likely taking something away from the fly. Does any one use this same method? Is there a better way?
  21. I have been doing a lot of bass fishing this year and I find that I cant keep the small mouth off of brown wooly buggers. I just hang the bugger off of an indicator so it just touches the bottom and fish it dead drift. I have found it effective in both the rivers I fish most often (where they empty into the Connecticut River) and in a lake I fish now and then. It, of course, also works being stripped like a streamer but suspended under a indicator is my favorite. Also I have found that, like trout, if a bass spots you it can be spooked and become very careful about what it tries to eat.
  22. I totally agree with flytire and flafly. When I started I purchased an expensive material kit from Cabela's and I found that many of the materials were quite useless due to low quality. In addition to this it had many materials that I didn't really need. I ended up replacing many of the materials with higher quality stuff when I needed them. If I could go back and do it over again I would just pick two or three patterns I want to tie and purchase the materials and hooks just for those patterns. Tie the hell out of those patterns until I had them down and move onwards and upwards from there. Had I followed this course I probably would have saved myself frustration and probably forty or fifty dollars.
  23. I really like my Danvise. I have seen them for 79.99 on J. Stockard fly fishing. I realize that that's at the high end of your price range.
  24. Wow. That is very nice. Is that something you would actually fish with?
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