rstaight

I said bobbin threader but I have been known to suck it through when I just didn't feel like grabbing a threader. For threaders I use both the wire and floss. Just depends on what mood I'm in.

Put your pieces in a bowl and cover with Saran wrap or something similar and use compressed air. The blades in a grinder will chop your material finer until they are dulled.

Wander how pairs of boots he would make? Or a crocodile skin rod tube?

I have one DT line on a 4wt. It is great for roll casting.

Lot of good info there Mike. Much appreciated.

Something brown and about 5/8 of an inch long. Sounds like a hares ear or is it a pheasant tail. Maybe a teeny nymph. You sure only one fly?

Mark, I think you summed it well with one statement. To paraphrase, If you have the money and want it, it's not foolish. If you don't have it and buy it anyway, then it's foolish. That's not to say if you want to save your pocket change it's all bad.

Bryon, Here ya about the band-aids. Took me years to realize it was a good idea to keep a first aid kit on the wood shop. Go figure.

The one pictured for ebay may have had the base changed out. On the Ekich website it shows a white marble base.

For me that is the holy grail of tying vises. Made by Ekich, he has some fantastic automatic bobbin holders as well. Like his vise the bobbin holders are expensive. Mine is his "cheap" model at $70 but the quality is well worth it. Like the quality of the vise is worth it.

Breaking my thread for the second or third time on the same fly.

The reason I don't like buying anything on line.

Based on the white feathers on the neck my first thought was Lady Amherst.

I designed a motorized vise for a course I was taking about 9 years ago. Long story but never got it built. I came across the drawings while back.

Mark I like what you done. I have thought about doing the same to my Griffin in the past. If pretty was the only criteria and I had the $$$ I would buy the Ekich Damaseal.

Vic, When I find myself no longer being able to fish the Driftless it will be missed. It's like a second home to me. Reading through this thread again I started thinking. If I feel I need to over line for short cast would I be better of with a softer rod?

I use a 3wt almost exclusively when fishing the Driftless Area in Wisconsin. If I'm not using a 3wt it's bamboo. I said in another post that I really like the Orvis Clearwater line. In this case it would be a 3wt line. I fish everything from size 14 to 20 dries. I will also fish size 10 to 20 nymphs, wets, and midges. With and without indicators. Weighted and unweighted but I never use a split shot. I do have a 2wt but haven't used it since the brookies seem to have disappeared. I also use the same rigs for bluegill.

Yes, it was a transom mount.

My father-in-law once had a 14ft V hull. Had a 5 horse Johnson and a 36lb thrust Minkota trolling motor. Only used the gas motor to save the battery. The trolling motor was faster.

"When the little black stones hit the water I tell the darn grandkids to stop throwing rocks and I move upstream." Knew it was coming. The people on this forum rarely disappoint.

Vicente, Thanks, I'll check it out.

With heavier I liked the Rio Clouser line. (Why did they stop it?) The first 30 feet of line weighed the same as normal WF line. It's just what they did with it.

Utyer, That may be the reason ome of my favorite lines is the Orvis Clearwater. It's inexpensive and a half weight heavier.

I like that "yet".

Nice work Mark. Did you add bearings to aid the spinning?