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Fly Tying

rstaight

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Everything posted by rstaight

  1. April was at the fly fishing show a couple of years ago in Indianapolis. I could watch her tie flies all day, so pleasant to watch. And the flies weren't bad either.
  2. I voted an Art. It takes attention to detail that is otherwise not required for flies that you will fish. I have tried the realism and classic side of tying. Though my results I felt needed work, when I heard the wife scream because of realistic spider I tried I knew I was on the wright track. I want to put more time into classic salmon flies but some of the materials can be tough to find around here. Either way I think everyone should give it go. It will only help develop your skills for the flies you tie for your everyday fishing needs.
  3. Hey all, Been tying for 12-15 years, would really have to set down and think about it. Come across this site a number of times and decided to get on the forums the other day. Hope to gain some knowledge and who knows, I may have something to share.
  4. I voted for bluegill. They are stocked in the city ponds and willing to take a fly. Plus the fight on a 3 weight is a blast. But a very close second are the smallies in the local rivers and streams.
  5. This will be interesting. I have several foam damsel flies in various colors because you don't know what you will see. It would be nice to tie them on only white and color them to match stream side.
  6. I know people that tie and do not fish. Must of my tying is done during the winter, that's when I refill the fly boxes. Anything tied during the summer and fall is to replace what I have left in a tree somewhere. Ya know, a fried bologna sandwich does sound good about now.
  7. The subject of color is an interesting one. About 6 to 8 years ago we had a gentleman from one of the fly shops our club members frequent speak at one of our meetings. His topic of choice was color. He explained that color changes differently between natural and synthetic materials. They have a light with various filters they use test new materials before they put them on the shelf. Also as you go deeper the color change is more drastic. Reds will go to browns. He also noted, and he sees this more with saltwater, you see a fish come up to your fly like a bat of h--- and you brace yourself for the strike. All at once they change direction. The theory is they gotten close at there is a color shift. They don't have that great distance of water to filter colors. The color shift scares them and they instinctively know its not natural. That particular meeting lasted over 2 hours when we scheduled 1 hour. I was experimenting one year with craft store materials. I tied a nymph with olive roving wool. At a depth of about 2 feet it appeared to be black.
  8. I voted midge but a close second for me is a nymph. Why is a nymph a close second? Every spieces of fish will eat something that is brown and about 5/8 of an inch long. For you metric guys 5/8 of an inch is 15.875mm
  9. I use feruled leaders that I build out of 140 denier tying thread on my bamboo rods. Normally out of olive thread, sometimes I will make the tip or butt out of orange for a strike indicator. For bass I will make them out of 2lb test mono. For salt I have used 5lb to 10lb test mono to build them. I will not the forget the feeling on the first fish I caught with a rod I built using a leader I made on a fly I tied.
  10. The disadvantage to a true rotary vise is in tying dries and small flies. The back end simply gets in the way, at least for me. If you like grab the vise like I do when applying material to small flies it gets in the way. However, I would not be with out my rotary for nymphs and streamers. I crank the handle as much as wrapping.
  11. The first book a bought when I started tying was "The Art of Fly Tying". It covers tools, materials and techniques. It also has several patterns, everything from nymphs to dries to salt. Still use it for a reference.
  12. I have one of those desk lamps with the magnifying glass. Cost about $20 at the time. I use it mainly for the light but I have used the magnifyer a few times. I also tie against a green background. I have tied down to size 32 just to say I've done it. That was before I had to get the bifocals, I used the magnifyer, 3.5x reading glasses, and was wearing my hat with my flip focals. Looked a little goofey, at least that was the polite way to put it but it got the job done. I mostly tie from size 10 down to 18. I have tied up to 4/0. Still used it for the light.
  13. Flytier posted exactly what is done. Furled translates to twisted. You twist the body material until it wants to knot itself. Pinch the material at the length you need for the body and bring the tag end forward. Keep it pinched until you tie the tag end down with a few wraps of thread. When you let go the body will un-twist creating a twisted or furled body. The post is the hook shank itself.
  14. I can't make any promises but I will try to get one tied and post it. Or at least let you know where to look it up.
  15. I don't tie a traditional parachute. For some reason wrapping the hackle around the wing post gives me fits, don't know why, just does. When I tie a parachute style fly I start with a ferruled body and have it 90 degs. to the hook shank. Add an indicator of white Z-Lon tied inline with the shank going past the eye. I then wrap the hackle around the hook shank. This allows the hook gap to ride below the surface instead of in the film. I have had good luck with these.
  16. This is the type of question that could start a good argument. The best bobbin is the one you are useing at the time. The only riquirement for me is that it fits in my hand comfortably and has a ceramic tube. I have used various brands at one time or another and my only complaint is the squeak that I get from the Tiemco bobbins.
  17. I use several different brands, Tiemco, Griffin, Anglerhause and some knockoffs that I got at a show a number of years ago in Chicago. The thing I look for is how they fit in my hand. I have used threads for 12.0 to 210 denier, not really loyal to one brand. The only requirement for me for a bobbin is a ceramic tube for the thread. A metal tube is fine for wire. I presently have a dozen bobbins loaded with different colors of thread plus what is in my travel bag. The only complaint I have out of any of them is the squeaking out of the Tiemco's.
  18. Hi folks, new to the forum but to answer What vise do I use. I have several that I use depending on what type or particular fly I am tying. I have a Silverado that I purchased at Gander Mountain before they decieded to become the worlds biggest gun store. I use it for dry flies. I can comfortably put my hand on it when appling materials. I have a Cabela's that I use for saltwater. I also have a Griffin Spyder (my first true rotary) that I use for my "secret" smallmouth fly. The proportions of the vise gives me excellent reference points for applying and trimming materials. However, the vise I use the most is the Griffin Mongoose. When ever I go to a tying night or work a both at a show it is the vise that goes with me. I have a "few" others that have been used at various times but just mainly set in a drawer.
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