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Frank G. Swarner III

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Everything posted by Frank G. Swarner III

  1. Thanks Ray.......swing it and hang on.....should be good on the smallies...I know it works for steelhead!!
  2. Thanks guys!! Ray I tied this one to swing on the Salmon River and the steelhead crushed it everyday. Not sure if it will work when it is rolling on the bottom.....maybe add some barbell eyes if you go that route. I put the hook in with the point up like the Balmoral tube.
  3. I'll have to check that out Ray. The Crayfish tube I posted doesn't roll over so I assumed it will do the same with this one. I'll check the next time i'm out for stockies!! Thanks for the heads up!!
  4. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by Frank G. Swarner III: HP Crayfish - tube fly
  5. Tube Fly Crayfish This is a fly that I had tied for a trip to the Salmon River, NY which was the week after Turkey Day. It produced the most fish for me and the takes were solid to say the least. The Brownies and the Steelies literally tore it up. The carapace feathers and one claw were ripped off and it still produced the last day we fished. It is a nice "change up" fly to get away from the hot colors , eggs, and the flashy patterns the fish see day in day out. I think this fly will be good for other species such as Smallmouth Bass. I also think it can be used in saltwater (striped bass) to represent a mantis shrimp or possibly a crab. Tube: 1 1/4" long tube - diameter of 1/8" or smaller Hook: Blackbird Sabretooth - size 4 Thread: 8/0 black Antennae: GP tail fibers and Peacock Sword fibers Ribbing: Small gold or copper wire First body: Brown dubbing Antennae/Feelers: Whiting Bird Fur - Coachman Brown Claws: Hen Pheasant feathers Mid-body joint: Peacock sword or Peacock herl Hackle: Hen Pheasant marabou Ribbing: Small Gold or Copper wire Second Body: Tan Dubbing Carapace: 2 Hen Pheasant feathers Step 1: Attach the thread to the tube and wrap back to the junction tubing, apply some super glue to the thread wraps. Step 2: For the antennae, strip off about 5-8 fibers from a Golden Pheasant tail. Tie them on top of the tube wraight at the junction tubing. Step 3: Strip of about 4-6 fibers from a Peacock Sword and tie them on top of the GP tail fibers. Step 4: Snip of a 3"-4" piece of small gold wire and attach it to the far side of the tube. Step 5: Spin some brown dubbing onto your thread and wrap the first body segment. Stop just shy of the midpoint. Step 6: Rib the body with the small gold wire. Tie off and trim excess. Step 7: For the claws and feelers pick out 2 small to medium sized feathers from a Whiting Bird Fur neck. Don't strip off any fibers from the stem and tie them onto the sides of the tube. The fluffier filoplume should extend to the tip of the Peacock Sword but not any further. Step 8: Select two, nicely mottled, Hen Pheasant feathers and tie them onto the sides of the tube right where the bird fur is tied. These will be the claws and they should extend just past the Peacock Sword fibers. Tie everything on good and tight, then trim the excess. Step 9: Select a few fibers from a Peacock Sword or use a few Peacock herls instead. Tie them in at the mid-body point and wrap them to make a small joint between body sections. Tie off and trim excess. Step 10: Select a fluffy marabou like feather from a Hen Pheasant. The stem should be long enough to make 3-4 turns. Strip off the fibers on the lower half and tie the feather in by the butt. Step 11: Snip of a 3"-4" piece of small gold wire and attach it to the far side of the tube. Step 12: Spin some tan dubbing onto your thread and wrap the second body. Step 13: Rib the second body with 3-4 turns of gold wire. Tie off and trim excess. Step 14: Wrap the Hen Pheasant marabou feather forward, keeping each turn on the rear edge of the wire. Tie off and trim excess. Step 15: Trim off the hackles on top of the tube where the carapace will be located. Step 16: Select 2 Hen pheasant feathers for the carapace. One should be lightly colored and mottled, the other should be dark and mottled. Strip off the fibers from the base of the stem so the lightly colored feather extends to the base of the antennae. The darker feather should be slightly shorter. Step 17: Hold the feathers one on top of the other and tie them in at the same time, on top of the hook shank. It may be necesary to flatten the stem with pliers. Trim off excess and finish the head. Step 18: Melt the tip of the tube with a lighter to finish the fly and apply head cement to the thread.
  6. Thank you for the kind words Steve!! Maybe we'll be back at TCO this year. Glad you posted these for your friend....they got me thinking about next year already!!
  7. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by Frank G. Swarner III: Balmoral tube - mixed up
  8. Thank you Bruce!! Here is the site I found the white heron http://www.farnham.ws/Syd%20Glasso.htm As for the dubbing, I used angora.....the closest color I had was a light shade of cream.
  9. I figured I would try to better my photographs by building a light box out of some PVC and some cloth. It was quite simple and I didn't need to glue any of it, so it can be taken apart and stored easily. I found the directions by doing a general search on google. One of the guys from the local TU organization (Valley Forge) has a 1995 Pennsylvania Trout Stamp which has steelhead on it, is going to donate it to the club's spring raffle. He asked me to tie a fly, because he is going to frame the stamp and the fly together so I decided to do one of Syd Glasso's patterns....the White Heron. I think it will go well with the stamp. I kept the BEP short so it will fit in the space provided for it in the frame. Enjoy!! Frank
  10. Here ya go!! You can check out my other flies too....I have a bunch of spey and dees in the fly pattern database. http://www.hatchesmagazine.com/page/month/312
  11. 1. To me, any style that isn't close to the form of the original spey flies (such as in Autumns on the Spey by A.E. Knox) isn't a spey fly. Now a days it seems people call anything with long hackle a spey fly but quite a few of them aren't spey flies at all. Bunny speys aren't even close and I despise the term. Basically a spey fly includes a low set wing, nice flowing hackle, and a sparse body. Check out my tying article on this site "tying a basic spey fly." 2 & 3. Probably a 7 or 8 wt that is 9-10 ft long. Wooly buggers and different egg patterns, basic stoneflies, estaz flies, sucker spawn, and crystal meth. 4. not familiar with your area so I don't won't to give you bad or contradictory info.
  12. No it won't fish upside down. Spey flies do have a tendency to wobble or track on their side through the water however. Your good to go!!
  13. Cool fly.....it would work where I fish for steel. Thanks for sharing!!
  14. that is a sweet rendition on a tube. Love the red hackle and the smaller green hackle.....that's style!!
  15. Now your cooking with gas buddy!! That's it right there.....everything is top notch.
  16. This is my favorite of the three shown. Cool little project....it looks great already!!
  17. Great dee fly Rocky.....if that other wing is bad you'll have to fish it only when the stream is moving left to right. Just show'em the good side!!
  18. Another producer.....great all around fly pattern.
  19. Looking good.......she will surely produce!!
  20. They look great Ray. You'll have no problem hooking a few with those!!
  21. Josh, You seem like a proficient tyer.....why not come up with your own little "pattern"? I did some research on the streams I fish for steel, investigated the stoneflies, then tied a few generic patterns that have the right parts and they worked just fine. Plus if you have your own set of "patterns" that no one can buy anywhere, you have a little bit of edge on other anglers. You will also be showing the steel something different, which can go a long way when steelheading. The one I tie has biots for the tail, a simple dubbed body wrapped with wire for the abdomen. Swiss straw for the wingcases with a clump or two of rabbit fur for the gills/legs. Antennae made of biots tied on before the bead is put on the shank, then the bead is slid up for the head. Rust is one of my favorite colors along with black and brown. Good luck!! Frank
  22. I love it Rocky....that's right down my alley!!
  23. I find the whiting spey hackle collapses when fished and doesn't have much substance since it so wispy. But that can be a good thing at times. If want some "bulk" without adding to much "bulk," I wrap a pheasant rump hackle or bep feather first then wrap the whiting spey hackle. Bleach burned ostrich feathers from a feather duster are also great for spey hackle. Schlappen is another good one if you can find long enough fibers on the feather. Male Wood duck rump is pretty interesting as well. Kind of like heron, but legal.
  24. You've got it now Tobbe1 !! Very, very nice. The head is excellent!! If you want a sparse look, try stipping one side of the hackle before tying it to the shank. Just an option for you to keep in your mind.
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