Jump to content
Fly Tying

haziz

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

Posts posted by haziz


  1. On 9/2/2020 at 7:41 PM, Mogup said:

    Here’s one of my prized soft hackle hen’s neck.

     

    494F59A6-3430-4BD6-B6D1-35CFF8C79EE3.jpeg

    0F42C137-D47B-4150-A17C-9A4833FFD77B.jpeg

     

    On 9/2/2020 at 7:22 PM, Mogup said:

    ps. I’d heartily recommend David Hughes “Wet Flies”. Second edition.  Great book for tying and fishing the flies we’re talking

    about.  

    43CA5D9D-EC53-4BE6-932A-80B080CECECB.jpeg

     

    I am envious! I did get a Chinchilla hen cape and saddle from Charlie Collins as part of a hen hackle "grab bag" that did produce usable North Country Spiders, judging by the three I just tied, but it is nowhere near as interesting as this skin/cape!

    I do have Sylvester Nemes' original book "The Soft-hackled Fly", but this also looks very interesting. Will look into it.

    Thanks.


  2. I do have a Hungarian Partridge skin that I am using to tie North Country Spiders (AKA Soft Hackles) such as the Partridge and Orange, but I do want to also try some hen (as opposed to rooster) hackle as an alternative. 

    When using hen hackle, do you tie it in using the feather tip, the same way most people use for the Partridge feathers, or do you tie in the feather stem?

    Do you strip one side of the feather, to essentially make the hackle on the fly more sparse or do you wrap with all the barbules intact?

    I am assuming most of the feathers are coming from the hen cape, rather than saddle. Am I correct in this?

    Thanks.


  3. As I research things more, two flies should be added to my list:

    11. Bivisible

    12. Brassie, with or without a head. I tied half a dozen the other day.

    While tying an X-caddis the other day, it reminded me of how much I dislike tying with or spinning deer hair. I guess I will have to bite the bullet and practice it over and over again.

     


  4. As a fly tying newbie, I feel a little presumptuous in assessing "influence", however the following tyers have been helpful and instructive to this fly tying newbie:

    1. Tim Flagler - His excellent videos and instruction are certainly welcome.

    2. Tom Rosenbauer - By covering both fly tying and fly fishing, and with the backing of Orvis, he does influence many newbie fly fishers and fly tyers, even if he is not known primarily as a tyer.

    3. Charlie Craven - His books are easy to follow and very instructive.

    4. Dan Trela - A local fly tying guru, who's demonstrations at the two fly fishing groups I belong to, and helpfulness have certainly left their mark.

    5. Harry Darbee - Certainly an influential tyer, together with his wife, Elsie, but in addition his rooster/hen selective breeding started the entire "genetic" hackle breeding trend, continued and perfected by Miner, Hebert, Whiting, Collins etc. Practically every breeder today traces his flock's origins, either directly or indirectly, to Harry Darbee. His generosity with his breeding line/eggs has influenced and helped many.


  5. I window shopped the store when it was closed last October when fishing the Yellowstone river for a few days. I did not realize their history at the time, but the store looked old (in a good way) and interesting. I wish I had stopped by when they were open. It now seems like it was a lifetime back, in pre-COVID days.

    I think the thing that first alerted me to their fame was noticing TIm Flagler using Dai-Riki hooks with their branding prominent on all his fly-tying videos. I then googled them and learnt of the sale. I think they were sold in April.


  6. I have taken advantage of some of those in the recent past.

    I am just curious, what is the incentive for the publisher, or Amazon for that matter, in distributing an electronic copy of their book for free? Many of the books are in fact fairly recent, so it is not a matter of copyright expiration.

    Is it just author pride, when dealing with an out of print book? Is there a paradoxical economic incentive?


  7. 52 minutes ago, flytire said:

    Since bears den does not advertise the skin as male or female, and shows a male skin on their site it’s hard to accuse them of sending you one

    they also have no option to order female skins

    they will happily replace the skin for a male. Just ask

    i have been buying from them yor years and they always send me an email concerning anything regarding my order. If the male skin was out of stock they would let me know and give me an option

    https://www.bearsden.com/product1888.html

    post an actual photo of what they sent you

     

    I already started tying from the skin, so I cannot, ethically, exchange it. I was just asking, in a slightly tongue in cheek manner, about the seeming preference for male skins. Some retailers even charge a little more for the male.

    Is there a practical difference from a fly tying perspective? What is the reason for the preference for male Hungarian Partridge skins?

     

     


  8. As I am tying North Country Spiders (AKA Soft Hackles), e.g. the Partridge and Orange, I tried with and without waxing the thread. At least during tying I am not seeing much advantage to the wax. I have not fished with either the waxed or unwaxed fly, so I can't tell if one will literally fall apart when fished. I am not noticing much better "grip" with the waxed silk. Waxing the thread seems to deposit a fairly heavy layer of wax and dulls the thread.

    I am using mostly Ephemera silk (and some Pearsall Gossamer), and Semperfli Prepared Fly Tyers Wax.

    Thanks.


  9. 52 minutes ago, mikechell said:

    If you haven't tied a dozen or two of each of the above, then you definitely need to practice them more.  Tying one or two of multiple pattern doesn't really develop the abilities.  If you can tie half a dozen, and they ALL look close to identical, then you've got that pattern learned.

     

    I actually just tied about 10 in a row of the Partridge and Orange Spider today. Actually, I jived it up, and tied Partridge and Orange, Yellow and Olive , the pattern being the same, using silk and Grey/Hungarian Partridge. Can't say they are all identical, but they are certainly very close. Some probably had the hackle placed too far "back" on a couple, but most did exhibit good proportions. I also did question whether the hackle was too dense or too long on a couple, but I think I mostly got this very simple pattern right. I do have several professionally locally tied ones, and I do fish the pattern occasionally, so I am fairly familiar with a well tied Spider. Will probably take some photos and post on this sub-forum, probably in a separate thread.


  10. Based in New England, and focused mostly on trout, as I embark on my fly tying adventure, I am looking at some beginner friendly flies to tie and to develop my skills. Flies that could be used immediately and are productive are a definite plus.

    I have tackled most of the following, but need to go back and practice some more:

    1. Woolly Bugger
    2. Woolly Worm
    3. North Country Spiders (AKA Soft Hackles) e.g. Partridge and Orange
    4. Walt's Worm
    5. Frenchie? Or a simpilified version of a Frenchie nymph?
    6. Simplified Scud patterns?
    7. Clouser Deep Minnow
    8. X-Caddis
    9. Sparkle Dun
    10. "Simplified" Catskill style dry flies:
    • Single wing Adams (or possibly wingless) - Single hackle feather using Dark Barred Ginger Hackle
    • Single wing Light Cahill
    • "Simplified" Hendricksons?
    • "Simplified" March Brown?

     

    Am I missing any obvious "beginner flies"?

     

    Any input regarding these choices?

     

    I have tied most of the above, but need more practice. Some of the ones I am uncertain of, or have had issues with are marked with a question mark.

     

    Input, suggestions or feedback welcome.

     

    Thanks.

     

     


     


  11. This maybe elementary to veteran fly tiers, but to us newbies, rooster cape anatomy is a bit of a mystery. Now that I have received 6 great capes (and 2 saddles) from Charlie Collins (highly recommended BTW), I am trying to figure out my way around each cape.

    Are there illustrations, pictures,  or in this age YouTube videos, that illustrate where, on the cape, to grab spade hackle tailing material, hackle for small flies, hackle for larger flies, stiffer barbs, softer barbs, and general fly tying, particularly hackle, know-how and lore?

    Basically is there a photo of a cape with arrows or lines pointing to where you would opt to pick your tailing material, best hackle, large hackle etc.?

    I did grab a bag of Spade hackle from him, but that is only in Grizzly, and I would want tailing material in other colors. I do have a hackle gauge, so I am already exploring on my own, but some advice and lore would also be very welcome.

    Thanks.

×
×
  • Create New...