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Everything posted by haziz

  1. Is this wax usable for waxing silk thread, for soft hackle flies ("North Country Spiders"), like a partridge and orange? I am a little confused by the manufacturer refering to it as a dubbing wax. https://www.semperfli.net/semperfli-prepared-fly-tyers-wax.html If not, what is the proper wax used to prepare silk thread? Thanks.
  2. Can you elaborate on what you mean by front to back as opposed to back to front? Is this referring to hook bend to eye? Thanks.
  3. Is it braided or chord like, like their usual thread? Thanks.
  4. I generally prefer "chorded" and round thread e.g. Uni thread, and find "flossy" threads difficult to deal with. I would like to branch out into GSP. There seems to be three marketers of the GSP thread in the US. They are all flossy to some extent, which I regard as a negative, but as best as I can tell there maybe a difference in how tightly they are spun/wound. Which is the LEAST flossy [i.e. most chord like] of the brands? Thanks.
  5. I did finally break down and ordered the Kindle version of the book, since it was less expensive. The book is clearly very well done and the integration of the video links and supplemental material exceptionally well presented. My one issue is that he certainly jumps into fairly complex patterns from the very beginning. This is not a book that eases a newbie in with a woolly bugger, or woolly worm. I guess I could have figured that out by watching the videos of the first few patterns, and possibly saved my money. However, I am quite impressed with the book and will certainly keep it, I just need to work my way up to these patterns. Great second or third book, but probably not a great choice for a relative newbie, albeit one who has been tying a little for a couple of years in my case.
  6. I think I finally figured it out! After practicing 50-60 times- the wrong way, of course! I started re-watching every YouTube video on whip finishing out there. I finally got it! My problem was that after engaging the Matarelli tool hook and bend around the thread, I used to rotate the tool creating an upside-down figure "4" with the horizontal section of the thread UNDER the vertical section, this meant that by wrapping in a conventional/clockwise direction it would take me at least one and sometimes two wraps to finally trap the horizontal section of thread, and at that point would often end up with either a small tangle or at least the feeling that it was quite awkward. By rotating the tool in an opposite or different direction, I actually end up with the horizontal section of thread OVER the vertical section and it is trapped with only half a turn and far less room for things to go wrong. Interestingly even some famous tyers seem to show it both ways, sometimes even the same tyer! E.g. Tim Flagler in his regular Tightlines video seems to show it under the vertical section and requiring him to make a complete turn before trapping the thread. This is the way I struggled with. Interestingly in his (different) video made for the Orvis Learning Center, he turns it so that the horizontal section of thread is over the vertical, and requiring only half a turn to get trapped. It is only after watching the latter video a couple of times that it finally clicked. It is a little hard to explain in words, I hope the above description is clear.
  7. I would like to tie some soft hackles, particularly a partridge and orange. A couple of questions: 1. For the hackle, which partridge feather is traditionally used? Are these from a cape, saddle or just random body feathers? Do you buy an entire partridge skin or do they sell capes and saddles, or just random feathers? Which partridge species? Hungarian? Gray (which I think is the same species as Hungarian partridge)? Does feather color matter? If I substitute hen for the partridge, do I get a hen cape or saddle? Again, would color matter? 2. I realize that traditionally this was tied with silk thread. I am assuming that any "modern" thread can be substituted instead? If so, would you use 6/0, 3/0 or other? I would presumably aim for a slightly dull orange color. I am planning on tying in sizes 12-18. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks
  8. I do practice on a bare hook tied into the vise, essentially doing 10-20 whip finish(es) on the bare hook, until the hook becomes "lumpy", then rinse and repeat. I am still struggling with the "proper" whip finish direction.
  9. The Feather Bender's Flytying Techniques: A Comprehensive Guide to Classic and Modern Trout Flies by Barry Orde Clarke, looks interesting, but it seems to be written by a European tyer. I realize that tying technique in general, and many fly patterns, are universal, but still wanted some feedback as to how relevant and useful US based fly tyers find this book? Any feedback regarding the book, in general? Thanks.
  10. I wrap thread in the conventional direction, away from me, over the hook (clockwise when directly facing the hook eye). However when using a whip finish tool, I find it much easier to essentially whip finish in the opposite direction. Rotating the whip finish, towards me, over the hook. I am not sure if this would weaken my wraps slightly. If I try to whip finish in the same direction as my usual thread wraps, I find the trapped portion of the thread (the horizontal section of the thread in the upside down "4" shape) created by the whip finish tool to be very awkward in positioning. I have tried practicing multiple times in the "correct" direction, but still struggle with it. Does it matter? Should I keep practicing, or just do it the way it comes naturally to me. I find whip finishing by hand to be very awkward, so that is not the solution for me. I prefer to use a Matarreli style whip finish tool. Thanks.
  11. I ordered a decent quantity of dubbing from Flyshack. This is their own branded ("Flyshack") material, presumably made by somebody else for them. Now, I wonder if I should have ordered from a more established brand? I simply went with Flyshack since I was making an order for other items from them. Any experience of their own Flyshack brand dubbing? I suspect it is made by one of the more established brands but is essentially being sold under their OEM label. Thanks.
  12. I ordered "extra fine" dry fly dubbing online, but until it arrives, can I use rabbit dubbing in the meantime. I would use it very sparingly. My understanding is that the rabbit dubbing would take on water and may end up sinking the fly, but I am too impatient to wait for the usual dry fly dubbing to arrive. Any issues with using the rabbit dubbing in the meantime? This is for my own personal use, obviously. Thanks.
  13. For the newbie fly tyers out there, is there a particularly easy Catskill style fly pattern, and is there a progression regarding difficulty? I just acquired Mike Valla's "Tying Catskill Style Dry Flies", and the patterns do not seem particularly difficult, however as a relative newbie tyer, I often will struggle even with the easy stuff. Is there a particularly easy pattern and is there a particular progression regarding ease of tying Catskill style dry flies? Since I live in Western Massachusetts, flies relevant to this area would be appreciated, however I am open to all suggestions. I suspect there is overlap between the Delaware and the Beaverkill, and our local rivers here in Western Mass, however, for example, I have seen very little large mayfly hatches here on the Swift river, which is the river I usually fish. Regardless of my local rivers, any recommendations regarding easy Catskill style dry flies? Thanks.
  14. Silly question. Is there a meaningful difference in "competition" (AKA Euro Nymphing) jig hooks, in relation to hook eye direction? For e.g. is there a meaningful difference between these two hooks? For what it's worth, my slotted tungsten bead mounts and seats well on both of these hooks. They would be used for some nymph patterns, e.g. "competition" Walt's worm, Frenchie nymph and other nymph patterns. They will be weighted by both a tungsten bead, as well as lead-free wire. Thanks.
  15. One of the most confusing aspects for me as a novice fly tier is hooks. Not just brands, and the equivalent hooks across brands, but even more basic than that is what makes a dry hook a dry hook, and a wet or nymph hook a wet hook, and why are some of them "standard"? I can get why a streamer hook is usually large and long, but what makes a scud hook a scud hook? Is it just the curve? And what is a "scud"? A lot of recipes for flies give detailed lists of "ingredients" but often skimp on details on the hooks, often mentioning just the size, and not giving details of which type. I realize this will come with experience, and veteran fly tiers will automatically "get" what hook to use, but I am definitely not there yet! Is there a "Fly Tying Hooks for Dummies" resource out there? Is there a "beginners guide to hooks" pinned thread that I missed (I did look)? Any introductory material, or advice, regarding this topic is welcome. Thanks.
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