Bill_729

I can identify with that. I spent most of a week getting my fishing gear in order for a trip recently, and then realized the night before leaving that I hadn't spent any time packing anything else. I thought it was funny too! 😀

Hollywood I get. Please explain to me how the institutions of higher learning are involved.

Where I grew up, 4-letter words were pretty much off limits. Where along the line did having a potty-mouth become to be an accepted vernacular (by some)? Is is part of the sexual revolution that women want to be seen as tougher (that's one idea I have), or is it something else? Even "fricken" offends me because I feel as though it is a cheap substitute for a word I was taught was vulgar. I'll bet if fish could talk they might have a few words for you as you reel them up! ; )

Congratulations Mike. Two or three more braces would probably take care of at least 95% of whatever "wobble" you have. One think I learned, Mine sits nicely on a "perfectly flat" portion of the garage floor, but if I move it to a different place, then not so much (the concrete isn't level!). Thus, shimming will take care of a certain sort of wobble (but not the sort I think we are talking about). Pretty fancy joinery! Bill

It is a copy of a well-known machinists tool box (made by Gerstner& Sons). It's got to be reasonably heavily built to handle that job. Genuine ones go for "big bucks" (like $300-400, I think--but I'm probably under estimating). I guess it's not so bad based on the "crazy money" some mechanics spend for their tool chests and Snap On tools... When I was a kid, my dad assured me that "Craftsman" was the brand you wanted to have. A lot has changed, but I still tend to think that way. : )

It's kind of you to admire it. I picked it up at an auction for "decor"! When a limb fell down in the yard, I tried to get my wife to "test it out" with me, but she wouldn't take either end... It might have been one of those "unforgettable moments"! ; ) I guess some people just don't recognize an opportunity when they come face to face with one! 😀

"The Workbench Book", by Scott Landis, is a pretty good read. I just noticed that the review I wrote for the book at Amazon.com is listed as one of its "top reviews from the United States". 😀 But the price of the book seems to have sky-rocketed. I have/had plans to build a "traditional style" workbench besides the one I showed, but somehow I got sidetracked. I need to perhaps either get a house with a basement or move somewhere "where the weather suits my clothes" more months out of the year... You seem to have that part licked! Congrats on your new shop! Bill

Mike, I didn't read the whole thread, but I saw "workbench". I built this one in a day. It is exactly 40" high. I put some thought into this dimension, and am quite happy with it (maybe because the one I grew up with was about the same height). it is absolutely *rock solid* (note the support and count how many 2 3/4" stainless screws you can see that I used, and you'll see it's alot--afterthought-- I probably used 3 1/2" screws). Note that there is a couple of inches around the top for clamping. I have a vise on a board, and clamp it on when I want it there (in fact most of the time I leave it there), and I like having a choice. It's convenient to store "stuff" underneath. The price of materials can be reduced by using a pair of 2-by-4s in place of the 4-by-4s (but YOLO!). The top consists of 2-by-8 "southern yellow pine" (a pretty good choice for this application, I think). I was choosy and picked carefully from what was available at the store. Maybe borrow a 4-foot steel rule from another department to assist you. One last comment. The assembly of this "really sold me" on the value of an "impact driver" (I was stripping most of the screws before I tried an impact driver--and the impact driver made that part easy). One other thing that greatly simplified things was using pipe clamps to clamp everything in place before assembly (as I had to do it by myself--I remember feeling a bit frustrated before I got out the clamps!). I connected two 4-foot pipes together (everyone should own at least 4, as you'll use them again! : ) I think I used glue too, but I'm not sure it's absolutely necessary... I know someone else who has a much shorter version for assembling cabinets. Thus, it's a versatile design. I hope that this may be helpful to you (or someone else!). Bill

I typed in "fly tying vise" in ebay and had the gut feeling that you couldn't go wrong with any of them. Think "rotating" if you want to be 21st century. : ) My Thompson Model B serves me find for the time being. Keep in mind that the principle purpose of the vise, as far as actual tying goes, is simply to hold the hook! : ) Good luck to the OP!

Man, you need some friends, to help! : ) Keep up the good work!

If you make it too cozy, you may find wildlife taking refuge in it. That could provide a surprise for you both! : )

It reminds me a little of of a deer blind I used a long time ago, except my blind was round. Have you "thought out" the roof? Why don't you want to use a chainsaw? Bill

Copied from the website: ** Pre-order Special ** - Printing and shipment from overseas was delayed due to Covid - we're hoping to have them before the end of the year. It sounds like they have not forgotten about you! Bill

Look like fun! I'm glad I'm not paying you by the hour (I often say that about my own work). It's hard to tell the dimensions from the photo. I don't know if it will be relevant, but remember that "green wood shrinks". I trust that you have a chainsaw. Bill P.S. Remember that the pyramids were built by people with decreasing goals! : )

Try a 2-D (rather than a 3-D) diagram. Sketch the hook to the correct proportions, and then "decorate" it, and assess. Then do it again, if desired. To my mind, it would be impossible to get the proportions better on a real hook then you are able to get them in your diagram (YMMpossiblyV). One things I left out of my last post. When you look at your hook in the vise, take a moment visualize the key "division lines" along the hook shank, just like in your diagram, before and during your tying. Surely you are already on the road to success! Have fun! Bill

In the fly tying class I took, we were asked to keep a notebook and to make a sketch of each fly along with listing the materials, hook size, name of the fly, etc. Since I enjoyed "sketching" anyway, I think that was good practice in for me in getting an "eye" for proportions. Think how much "trial and error" you can get in 5 minutes with a pencil without getting hung-up on technicalities-- like thread, and searching for materials. For me, making a sketch is usually a useful step in making most anything... (while I have known a couple of people who don't plan anything, and seem to get a lot done). If someone were to ask me about my best tools, I think I would have to include the humble "list".

I have their 2020 catalog, however a visit to their web site seems to confirm your observation. I enjoyed trying to "support" Hook & Hackle as I liked their (lower-brow) "attitude". There was a time when their catalog was the easiest source of materials that I knew of and it saddens me that they may no longer be selling fly tying materials. I wish them success going forward.

FWIW, I was learning out of books (in the pre-Internet days), and a course consisting of 6 weekly meetings at the local community college improved my flies for good! My me, the addition of a bobbin, which didn't come as part of my kit) made a huge difference. I've heard some say the bobbin isn't such a big deal, but we all have our own experiences, besides our own hands. : ) I don't have a "ceramic" bobbin, but it's never held me back. OTOH, my bobbin looks slightly better-made to me than many of those I see for sale now. P.S. Maybe one of the best things you get out of lessons, is the point of view that tying a fly is a 5 or 6 (or 10) step process. No one ever really said that, but that's what goes through my mind when tying. So in that sense, the process is organized (and not needlessly rushed). Each step has something of a goal (and if it's not achieved, consider doing it again). I have "reclaimed" plenty of hooks with my handy razor blade.

Buying a book may help to boost your confidence, and many of them are not very expensive. There are many to choose from. I think Orvis publishes two (I have one of them). Your local library may have some as well. Bill

My average seems slightly better than than what you described (in jest), but I still have difficulty getting a leader to last more than 3 outtings. I have a hunch those fellers that claim they make a leader last all season are either lying or aren't challenging themselves enough! %-)

Last year (2019) I had no trouble finding many economical choices ($20-$30) of 7-DT-F, and at just about the same time had to pay $60 for 5-DT-F. I attributed the difference to "market differentiation" by the manufacturers rather than a significant difference in the fly line. That said, my plans to use the weight 5 line were curtailed this year, and I haven't tried it yet (but I am looking forward to do so!). There's another reason for a beginner to go with a 7-weight, among others I can think of (other things constant). Bill I haven't been "informed" by the owner of my local fly shop that there is no real difference between DT and WF (and mostly all they stock is WF), and I heartily disagree. FWIW, I am using fiberglass rods.

I always thought that "unnecessary driving" showed a disregard for the environment. We recycle, even though it is not required, and we have a family that I think is "more environmentally friendly" than most. I'm not the sort of person that would cut down trees to put up more buildings. One of my friends used to say, when it comes to people and animals, the animals always lose... Maybe the world would be a better place if the automakers didn't run a semi-monopoly, and built cars people could really afford rather than ones which made them the most money. I would prefer a car Without TPMS, TYVM! : ) The more technology, the more stuff there is to break.

130K miles on the vehicle. There are a few stains in the driveway, but nothing "wet". What is most likely happening to the oil? Since the mechanic said oil was "oozing" ~10 years ago, I assumed that meant that it might be escaping slowly. Based on your comment, its sounds like it might be getting burnt up through worn valves. Is that what you think, or are there more likely scenarios? I've kept the fluids, brakes, filters in good condition, so I haven't felt "negligent". At 130K miles, I don't expect perfection--personally, I've never had car get 130K miles---I don't drive that much. It's "unnaturally" aspirated (turbo), so it probably runs hotter than a naturally aspirated engine. I am tempted to point to that as a cause of the higher oil usage. I would rather replace the vehicle than replace its engine. But I enjoy that it is paid for and has low maintenance and insurance costs, being over 10 years old. Substituting one that is a year old in its place would likely cost $25K, plus taxes and much higher insurance. Bill

FWIW, no one said my car is burning any oil--besides that drop every 200 miles that you mentioned.

I used to think like that. Now I think about what it costs for the 4 quarts of oil I'll add in a year. The same car has a broken electric window. Would you fix that too? I haven't even asked what it would cost to fix the window... the last time I asked about one of those it was in the neighborhood of $600-700, it's probably more nowadays. I told my wife (who has possession), whenever she wants to replace it, we'll do it, and we'll even fix the window if she wants to, but in the meantime, every month she drives it it's like having someone hand her around $350. And, except for the window she is happy with the car. I add the oil. : )