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Everything posted by Chasing_Tails

  1. 7 The Flea: Hook: Mustad 3407, #2 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, Fire orange Tail: Bobcat tail Flash: Firefly Flash, gold Eyes: Burnt mono, 50lb Body: Cactus Chenille, medium, 1/2 bonefish tan, 1/2 Opal orange (egg bearing) Legs: Chicone crusher legs, sand/clear barred Wing: FTD Congo Hair Baitfish Blends, honey gold shiner Weight: Lead dumbell, medium
  2. Deep Zonker, Whitebait Hook: O'Shaughnessy salt, #1/0 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive Tail: FTD Pearl Web, Hot White Body: Estaz, standard, pearl Back: Zonker Strip, olive Belly: FTD Arctic Wind, Hot White Eyes: Lead dumbell, med, Chart/black pupil Weedguard: Monofilament, 50lb Head: UV Resin with Hard As Hull overcoat Gills: Sharpie Marker, red
  3. BB Shrimp, Sand Hook: O'Shaugnessy salt, #1/0 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, fire orange Butt: Uni-Thread 6/0, fire orange coated in Bone Dry UV resin Body: Polar Chenille, medium, UV gold Flash: FTD H20 Multi-Mix Flash, natures tan Wing: Select craft fur, sand Eyes: Mono, 30lb, brown Belly: 3x 1/4" hollow brass beads on 30lb monofilament
  4. I am going to try using a thin 1mm foam as the wingcase/back and fold it forward and down like a wiggler. I can add some UV resin to the rear of the "bill" to provide some support if required. Also changing the bead to glass rather than brass to lighten the fly up a bit. I may try one with the bead omitted as well but I do like how it gives the fly a slight amount of negative buoyancy. Fishing on a floating line with no weight should keep the fly near the surface similar to the video, but you could also fish it on a sink-tip/intermediate, or throw a bit of weight in front with a small split shot on the tippet to run it like a carolina rig with the fly floating up off the bottom but still at a controlled depth depending on the weight position. Dang it, I just cleaned up my desk from this project too...ah well, can't always be tidy.
  5. I am thinking that taking the bill and making it more perpendicular to the hook, similar to a wakebait crank type lure, should give more wiggle, and less dive.
  6. I've used mono hinges before, and for this size of fly and tail material, 2x tippet is more than adequate. There is no rear hook so it is durable enough that it will out last the rest of the fly. It is a technical fly with some different techniques thrown in, but it is not difficult to tie. As to tying in stages, if I was commercially producing this fly I would definitely produce the tail assemblies separately before completing the fly. I'm a long time commercial tyer and if you did proper material prep you could churn out one of these in about 5 minutes. Here is the step-by-step I created: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/102381-hula-damsel-light-olive-sbs/&tab=comments#comment-845475 For the SBS I worked up v2. I changed the leg material using the slightly thinner FTD Bug Legs 14-40 in caddis green which are better proportionally, and also changed the mono eyes to olive. I think they match better for the lighter colored fly and allows for the eyes stand out more.
  7. Hula Damsel, light olive Hook: Tiemco 2457, #12 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive dun Tail shank: Stainless wire, 31lb Tail: Ostrich herl, olive Abdomen (articulated): Pearl Core Braid, olive Hinge: 10lb monofilament Back: Thin Skin, Oak Mottled, olive Thorax: Senyo's Laser Dub, Light Olive Legs: FTD Bug Legs 14-40, caddis green Bead: Brass, 7/64" Eyes: Mono, x-small, olive Shell: UV Resin Step 1: Using a tube fly tool (smallest pin) as a mandrel, tie thread onto the end of a 2" piece of Diamond Core Braid material. Start the thread on the braid material and not the mandrel. Make the wraps tight to avoid the material spinning on the mandrel. Step 2: Take three ostrich herl tips and tie them in a splayed manner to simulate the gills on the damsel fly nymph. Do not worry about using the thread to keep them splayed as we will be applying UV resin to set them in place. Step 3: T Whip finish and cut the thread. Use thin UV resin (Solarez Bone Dry in this case) or thin superglue on the thread and also where the ostrich herl is tied in to maintain the separation of the tails. Once dry slide the assembly off of the mandrel. Step 4: Cut a 2" section of 31lb stainless leader wire. Step 5: Bend the wire over the mandrel pin to form a small loop. Step 6: Place the loop into your vise and tie in the 1/8" closest to the loop. Do not apply too much pressure to cause the loop to collapse. Step 7: Using side cutters, cut off the extra wire leaving a 1/8" stub where the thread was tied on. Press the braid material onto the end and secure with thread. Once tied on, whip finish and coat the thread with thin UV resin or super glue. Step 8: Remove the completed tail section from the vise and put aside. Step 9: Place hook into the vise with the bead towards the rear. Tie on your thread at the eye. Step 10: Tie in your mono eyes at the eye using figure-8 wraps and secure. Apply a drop of thin UV resin or super glue to reinforce the eyes. Step 11: W Move the bead to butt up against the mono eyes. Jump the thread over and behind the bead and anchor with thread wraps. Apply a drop of thin UV resin or super glue into the rear of the bead to reinforce it. Step 12: Cut a section of 2x tippet and pass through the wire attachment point on the tail. Make sure to orient the tippet tag ends so that the tail gills will lay flat inline with the forward body. Secure the tippet material to the shank and then double it back over securing with thread wraps. Trim the tag ends. Apply a drop of thin UV resin or super glue for durability. Step 13: Cut a section of Thin Skin wide enough for a wing case and approximately 2 times the length of the hook shank. Attach to the rear of the body. Be sure not to apply thread wraps too close to the tippet hinge as it will close the loop and inhibit tail movement. Step 14: Place a dubbing ball at the rear of the hook. This will provide support for the rear legs and force them to splay outwards. Step 15: Tie a single overhand knot in a 3" section of bug legs. Create a pair and tie each in on the side of the hook. Move the thread rearward to the dubbing ball to force the legs outward. Step 16: Tie in a second dubbing ball in front of the rear legs and repeat the steps to create and tie in the middle set of legs. Use the same technique of thread pressure to force the legs outwards. Step 17: Create your third dubbing ball In front of the middle legs. Allow the ball to fill the remaining gap up to the rear of the bead. Step 18: Knot and tie in the front set of legs directly behind the bead. Form another thin noodle of dubbing and use it to add bulk to the body as needed and also set the leg positions. Do not be overly concerned about the leg positions as the bug leg material is meant to move in the water and simulate the insect crawling or attempting to grab on to an object. Step 19: Once the dubbing body is complete and the legs are set in your desired position, jump the thread back in front of the bead. Step 20: Fold the wing case forward and tie down between the bead and mono eyes. Trim the tag end to create two short V-shaped antennae. Whip finish behind the mono eyes and trim the thread. Step 21: Apply thick UV resin over the wing case and between the mono eyes to form a wide head. Overcoat UV resin with hard head cement. Trim legs to length and any errant dubbing fibers. Step 22: Add water and watch your damselfly nymph come to life.
  8. I figured it had common enough materials that even the trout guys could scrounge up some saddle hackle an bucktail 😉
  9. Total length including the ostrich herl gills is 1.25" for a size 12 hook. Which puts it in the upper range of 15mm-30mm (not including gills) for a mature damselfly nymph. It can easily be scaled down though by using midge core braid. I'll probably work up v2 and use a slightly thinner leg material than the full size Lifeflex. If I get time today i'll sit down and do an SBS for it and post the instructions.
  10. Hula Damsel, light olive Hook: Tiemco 2457, #12 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive dun Tail shank: Stainless wire, 31lb Tail: Ostrich herl, olive Abdomen (articulated): Pearl Core Braid, olive Hinge: 10lb monofilament Back: Thin Skin, Oak Mottled, olive Thorax: Senyo's Laser Dub, Light Olive Legs: Lifeflex, light olive Bead: Brass, 7/64" Eyes: Mono, x-small, black Shell: UV Resin The tail shank is only attached at the tip of the Pearl Core Braid allowing for articulation and also natural movement of the braid material. So for the next fly, lets try something salty, the classic, Lefty's Deceiver.
  11. I need to put a few more damsel flies in the box so I'll claim this one.
  12. Dip Shrimp, tan Hook: Mustad Long Shank Stainless, #2 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, fire orange Tail: SF Slinky Fibers UV, shrimp Antennae: Krystal Flash, copper Eyes: Stone-Flo V shrimp eyes Thorax: Palmer Chenille, medium, tan Abdomen/legs: Palmer Chenille, small, tan Back/shell: 2mm foam, tan Rib: Wire, 0.2mm, brown Weedguard: 20lb mono Tail support: UV resin on underside The gurgler shrimp is a great skipping bait on the surface, but sometimes you want the fly to just dip below the surface. The colder temperatures means that the small shrimp will begin to reside along the marsh shorelines and the redfish, trout and snook will be in pursuit.
  13. Peel-N-Eat Shrimp Hook: Short Shank Salt, #1 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, pink Tail: Fly Tails, large, Crystal Cotton Candy Body/Legs: FTD NK Flats Dubbing, Bonefish Shrimp Pink Shell: Thin Skin, pink Eyes: Mono Eyes, large, black Antennae: Krystal Flash, pink Weedguard: 20lb monofilament
  14. I recently used the Regal warranty when I finally chipped the jaws enough to bother me. The vise was originally purchased in 1992. No issues at all and an extremely quick return of a brand new set of jaws. Complete the warranty claim form they have on their website and send it in, you will have new jaws in no time.
  15. Double Barreled Frog, green Hook: O'Shaughnessy #1/0 Thread: Danville 3/0, Olive Weedguard: Monofilament, 20lb Head: Double Barrel Popper Head, Medium, Green Eyes: FTD Frawg Eyes, 8mm, flat orange Front Legs: Lifeflex, standard, light olive Rear Legs: Cohen's Frog Legs, Medium Collar: Barred saddle hackle, grizzly green and Ice Dub, olive Mouth: Testor's Enamel paint, gloss red Markings: Sharpie Markers, green/yellow/black
  16. I went a bit nuts with FTD last year and ended up getting pretty much everything from their inventory. And quite a few of the flies in that assortment use FTD materials in some form. If you ever need the recipe to any of them let me know. Those leggy dubbings have been great for saltwater shrimp and crabs. I use a lot of the Pearl Web, Crystal Web, and longer dubbings (BGD-Clyde and Arctic Wind) for baitfish imitations. And the Congo Hair is a low cost substitute for EP Fiber with some unique colors. The best part is that their prices for all of their materials are great. A new tyer can get a good assortment of different things for a small investment.
  17. I got a great box all the way from downunder. Thank you Lil Dave for a selection that I can use in both freshwater for bass and various saltwater species. Some of the bunny flies scream spring tarpon. Happy Holidays everyone!
  18. So...did you get out?? That bunny crab is one of my favorite winter time flies and usually gets jumped on pretty quick. The raggedy crab is a new design using some Fly Tyers Dungeon materials that I have found provide great movement in the water without adding bulk. Good luck and tight lines. Chasing_Tails
  19. I thought of that as well. The forum thread would just provide a convenient way for everyone to participate, even with multiple flies, or where one tyer can build upon another tyers idea/s to create something new. But if you all are happy with the current pattern challenge then maybe sometime in the future.
  20. It seems that the challenge thread has been doing well and it has been interesting to follow with a wide variety of patterns, but I have had an idea kicking around that I wanted to see if the group would be interested in. The challenger will post an idea for a fly to include the genre and basic materials, example: Genre: Nymph Materials: Turkey feathers of any type, peacock herl, rubber legs, mylar tinsel, marabou. All materials must be represented in some way. A "wildcard" material can also be listed which can be an abnormal material type for the genre, or allow for a "tyers choice" where the tyer can include any material they would like. The listed materials should be very general (no specific brands or colors) and also allow for reasonable substitutions so that even individuals with a limited amount of materials can participate. If the materials fit a specific pattern, feel free to copy the pattern. Want to come up with something completely new, have at it. Realistic, sure. Wild looking, even a little ugly, definitely. Anything goes so long as the genre and materials are followed. The challenge would run for a week so everyone has time to come up with something, or multiples if they so choose. My thought is that this would allow us to let the creative juices flow and see some ideas and techniques that we never thought of. If there is interest in something like this I will write up the general rules and get the first challenge started. We could run it Sunday to Sunday if that works for everyone.
  21. It is actually a very simple fly to tie. I use 180lb stainless wire as an arbor in the vise to tie the tails onto the end of the mop chenille that I taper down with a lighter. Then just tie it in as an extended body. I also add lead wire as an underbody to the thorax depending on how heavy I want it. My goal was to have a very heavy stonefly as an anchor fly, but not with a large size. The short shank 9174 allows for the short profile.
  22. Mop Stonefly Nymph, black Hook: Mustad 9174, #6 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, black Bead: 7/32 tungsten, black nickel Tail: Lifeflex, black Abdomen: Mop chenille, black Thorax: Ice Dub, Wicked Black Legs: Lifeflex, black Antennae: Lifeflex, black
  23. That would have been handy when I used to fish offshore more and you would have a bunch of mahi and tuna to offload at the end of the day. Another tool for easy fish handling is a Boga Grip: https://www.amazon.com/Boga-Grip-315-15lb-Scale/dp/B0B6T2M612 The Boga is great since it has the built in IGFA scale, but there are many lower cost options available. I have had a pair of Berkley Grips that have been in use for over 20 years and still function like new and it was only $29.99. It makes handling larger fish and toothy critters easy even when practicing catch and release.
  24. You should have mine in your mailbox today.
  25. Looks like mine made it to your post office box.
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