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Fly Tying

Nick N

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About Nick N

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1993

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  • Location
    Valley forge PA
  1. Hey everyone, i doubt any of you will remember me here but anyway, after a year and a half off im back into tying. We had some car troubles about two years ago, and now my canoe transport vehicle is no more =[. I havent really fished at all for the past year and three months. Then i just got so busy with school and swimming and working that i never had a chance to tie. Well, today i cleaned up my desk re organized my materials and started tying up a storm. Its amazing how quickly it comes back to you huh? Anyway, whats the best way to thin out head cement? Both Lacquer and flex cement. Thats the only thing that didnt make it.......
  2. hmmmmm, i would say try 2 zonker strips, placed skinside down, tied together at the end, then onto a heavy wire hook. you could even weight the hood to make it sink faster. I have used these with good success for largemouth and smallmouth bass. oh! also, try tying in a small piece of foam at the end of the strips to get them standing upright when they sink. i seem to have more luck that way.
  3. Any floatant will do for thread leaders. I use a drop or two of the liquid stuff in the little bottle, rub it on the leader, and let it dry. The mono leaders are tougher, so I rub them with a hard wax before I twist the two strands together. This works reasonably well, but I do need extra after a while. Dont even try to get a Flourocarbon leader to float, the most youl get is 10 min.
  4. Store it with a used dryer sheet. There is near zero static, and if there is any, just a quick pull through a new sheet will get rid of it. I dont store my flash with new sheets, as they leave a residue, but they are handy for quice, once throughs. I also wipe down my vise and hair stackers with a dryer sheet when I work with hair.
  5. I think that most people think that the 'bou tail makes it "more natural" and has more movement. Its a great fly for waters where there actually are leeches and worms, but in my trout waters a white yellow and black wooly WORM resembling a catipillar works great. There are so many overhanging trees that you cant get a cast off, but the little caterpillars just plop into the water. Its like a feast for the trout, and easy fishing for me :yahoo:
  6. if you dub your thread, then wrap the last 3 wraps around a bobbin threader(and hook!) then cut the thread, keep tension, pull through threader, then pull threader out of loops, it will lock up great, and you wont see a thing.
  7. most craft stores should have them, if they dont, they wouldnt be too hard to cut out with a pattern. You can really jazz up some of the dragonfly ones with some paint, legs, antellae, all sorts of stuff.
  8. Ok, so I spent the last 5 hours going through every drawer and every box in my flytying desk. Well, gheres what I found: one small box of bug infested feathers, (that was a scare, but everything else is ok) $11.65, and about 60 flys, most of them "experimental" and that didnt work out. So heres the question: how do I strip all the materials off these hooks to re use them. Also does anyone have a hook silouhet(sp) chart thats real size for mustad and TMC? would burning the stuff off work?
  9. OH! great idea! I might give it a try!
  10. wait, whats the velcro for?
  11. oh, and I was talking to HMH, and they said that they might be coming out with a true rotary...........................
  12. HMH ALL THE WAY! they, to me, are truely one of the best, affordable vices on the market. and heck, its close enough to rotart, that it pretty much equals up with a Renzetti. I mean really, how many times do you have your hook perfectly centered? even if you dont, it still eorks fine right? and how bout when you switch from a 16 to a 8 hook, do you move the jaws to a different setting instead of just turning the screw?
  13. English name for wooly buggers for the most part. some have round lead heads though
  14. or dont use head cement! a double whip finish should hold just fine
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