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Found 88 results

  1. Photograph 1. A white belly matuka tied with a single reverse-tied wing and belly feather. The fly shown is about 2.25 inches (57 mm) long ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Video of tying a White Belly Matuka is posted on Youtube. A video of why the White Belly matuka was developed and how it is tied is posted on YouTube: youtu.be/nLCGD9ombPQ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Development of the White Belly Matuka The White-Belly Matuka was developed for fishing the upper Arkansas River in Colorado whose preyfish are mostly baby or fingerling brown trout. The classic Matuka pattern is redesigned for this role by adding a belly feather to fill in the body and increase the motility of the fly. In white belly design, the over-the-top wired-down wing feathers of the classic Matuka are given increased action by tying in one or two reversed-tied olive grizzly marabou feathers, that is, tied in with their quill end towards the rear of the hook. One or two reverse-tied white mini-marabou feather are also tied in under the hook adding a belly to the fly. These reverse tied feathers flow in the water giving the fly an animated look and allowing it to swim much like a prey fish. The Matuka tail is made to be more freely moving by using one or two soft-hackle dyed-olive grizzly-marabou feathers that can impart a swimming action when the fly is fished appropriately. While increasing the movey action of the fly, these changes also act to flesh out the classic matuka’s slender-minnow look into a fuller football shaped body more like that of a brown trout fingerling. Amber-colored barred silicone leg material maybe added to the sides of the fly to suggest lateral lines but also act to impart an additional source of movement. The final touch is adding parr marks on a baby brown trout design. Including parr marks on baby brown trout flies is important on the upper Arkansas River because it is managed as a wild-trout fishery and therefore has all age classes present. Parr marks are associated with young wild-trout because most stocked trout are older and have already lost them when put in a river or lake. Further, stocked trout are usually slimmer and paler in colored markings and more silvery overall, than a comparable wild-bred brown-trout which can be densely spotted and barred as well as brightly colored. While there are many baby brown trout designs out there most do not include parr marks—and are seemingly adapted from the look of a stocked brown-trout. In the White Belly matuka, the 7 to 9 major parr marks on the yellowish sides on wild trout fingerlings are represented by the dark-barring seen on the yellowish field of a golden-olive grizzly feather tied in along both sides of the fly. By Fall, fingerling trout, depending on nutrient availability, genetic factors and so forth, have grown to a several inches in length-- setting a target length of single hook fly pattern of around two inches including the tail or articulating a doubled pattern to make a 2.5 to 3 inch inch fly. Like others, I have found that on smaller rivers, like the Upper Arkansas, the trout often respond well to these smaller, often single hook streamers in the 2-3 inch range but, like frequently observed, there are no rules only generalizations in terms of what trout like. Fishing the White belly Matuka Of course, there are many ways for a trout to approach a fly and strike it. But in my experience there are two general approaches that trout use: the first one is to come up directly behind and attack from the rear of the fish --where all fish have a blind spot (for an example, see youtu.be/DD_p5oC7XpU). From the directly behind point of view, I think its the swimming motion of the fly is key in luring the trout to bite. The second way trout approach prey is a flank or broadside attack where my thinking is that flank shape coloration and markings are increasingly important to making the fish bite. The flank approach is mostly seen in attacking trout that are ambushing the preyfish from, say, an undercut bank, rolling up and over from, say, a river bottom lie, or in the case of the upper Arkansas River, waiting in soft water commonly found near the rip-rapped riverbanks that are commonly found along the river. In the rivers I fish, the flank approach and assault from a near-bank lie is the most common strike that I see. However, to cover both types of approaches you want to fish a motile fly made with the expected flank look over a range of retrieves from dead drift to active-erratic to swing until you find out what is triggering trout that day. In any case, the parr marks are distinctive flank markings on baby brown trout flies that often trigger strikes from the large cannibal trout in the upper Arkansas River. White-Belly Matuka Recipe-- Baby Brown Trout Variant General notes: 1. A rotary vice has an advantage when tying this fly. The rotary action makes it easy to flip the fly back and forth to view and properly place the wing and belly feather on the centerline of the top and bottom of the hook shank, respectively. The rotary action also allows the tier inspect the far side of the fly when the wing and body binding wire is spiraled forward to avoid both rolling the feathers around the fly and tying down too many feather barbs. 2. The white belly matuka is thought of as enhanced animation design-concept whose body form and length as well as coloration should be adapted to the local preyfish in your area. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hook: Gamakatsu B10 in size 1 or 2: Or other wide gap, streamer length, stinger style hook. In any case, use a wide gap hook to assure the hook point is well clear of the fly body and belly feather(s). Weight: 6mm black Brass cone. The weight is needed to get the buoyant marabou to sink quickly for immediate retrieve. If needed, the weight of the conehead maybe supplemented by using a heavy backer bead Backer bead: a bead placed behind the cone to center the cone and when firmly tied in and glued with UV-setting adhesive to lock the assembly on the hook shank. Use a 3-4mm, round bead with a hole large enough to thread on the hook yet small enough to slip inside the countersunk conehead. in order of increasing additional added weight to fly, the bead can be 8/0 plastic or glass, 4mm brass, or 4mm tungsten. Zap-a-gap superglue can also be used in this application but when applied in thick layers can take a while to set. Thread: Nanosilk: 50D in olive color. The heavier thread is used so that it can be firmly pulled on when winding the chenille body to the cinch it tightly to the hook shank. The thread is tied in behind backer bead and used to build up the thread base there to lock cone and backer bead in place behind eye of the hook. Add enough UV-setting glue to fill end of cone and harden it there with your UV light. Then put a single layer thread base over the hook shank ending up at the rear of the hook shank so that the tail can be tied in. Tail: The tail is done in the classic Matuka style but uses one or two grizzly marabou dyed sculpin olive feathers-- that when stripped of the downy barbs and tied in at hook top of the hook bend so that the vane of the feather can extend out the rear of the fly far enough to double the length of the fly. For example, on a size two B10 hook, tie in the tail so that the overall length of fly pattern 2 – 2.5 inches (50-65mm). Ribbing wire: Small or brassie size (0.1 to 0.2mm) silver wire. Tied in at rear of hook shank just ahead of the tail Body: Petite Estatz pearl or medium Cactus chenille pearl (both are about the same diameter). The barbs of this type of chenille is thought to help hold the feathers in position as the wire is wrapped over them. The chenille is tied in at rear of hook shank and tightly spiraled forward to back of conehead. As you wind forward, every few turns pull on the chenille to assure that it is firmly wound to make it a tight body for the wing and belly feathers to attach to. When the chenille reaches the rear of the conehead firmly tie it off with several wraps of thread and cut off chenille tag end. Return the thread back to the rear of the hook shank while weaving the thread back and forth through the chenille to reduce the tie down of the chenille barbs. Rear bridge tuft: A small stack of sculpin-olive grizzly marabou barbs tied in on top of the hook bend to close gap between tail and wing. Only needed if the stripped grizzly marabou tail feathers are too short or sparse to close this gap by themselves. Lately, I have had a hard time finding feathers long enough to form the tail and wing with one feather. So I have taken to tying a tail feather and wing feather and, if needed, filling in the gap between them with a bridge tuft. Wing feather: Select a sculpin-olive or olive grizzly marabou feather that has a long enough strip of long barbs that it can span the entire chenille body. Strip this quill of downy barbs and the short barbs side of the feather and then tied in reverse at the rear of the hook shank-- that is with the quill heading out over the rear of the hook shank. If the wing feathers available are not thick enough, I may tie in a second prepared wing feather. But keep in mind that further overdressing the wings, belly and tail feathers can inhibit their swimming motion in water. Belly feather: White mini-marabou, sometimes called by the trademarked name, chickabou. Select a long-barbed feather that, after being stripped of the downy barbs, is wide enough to span the across the entire hook shank from the hook bend to the rear of the cone. Inspect the feather and strip off the side of the feather with the shorter barbs to make a half feather still on the quill. This half feather is tied in with thread under the hook shank at the hook bend and also-- reversed-- with the feather quill out to the rear. Now, return the thread to the front of the hook shank while weaving the thread back and forth through the chenille to reduce the tie down of the chenille barbs Spiral ribbing wire forward from hook bend to behind cone head. Make about 4 or 5 turns through both the wing and belly fibers tightening the wire after each turn to cinch down the feathers to the chenille body. Front bridge tuft: A small stack of sculpin-olive grizzly marabou barbs tied in on top of the hook bend to close gap between the conehead and wing. Again the tuft is added only if the stripped grizzly marabou tail feathers are too short or sparse to close this gap by themselves. Parr marks: The tip of a golden-olive dyed grizzly feather on each side of the hook shank. The feather shaft is centered along the hook shank and the tip of the feather extends out to near the hook bend. Note that the point where the feather is tied into the head of the fly must be near the diameter of the body or else the feather will flare out when tied in. Sidebars: Mobile elements tied in just behind conehead and extending to just past hook bend. Lateral line: 1) Amber colored silicone legging material with black barring; and, 2) Flank flash: I add in one strip of 1/32” holographic silver flashabou or mylar pearl tinsel to suggest the silvery flashes seen in the clips of the feeding forage fish shown in White Belly Matuka YouTube tying video. Collar: Dark olive ice dubbing spun on a waxed portion of the thread. The dubbed collar fills the gap between the rear of the cone and the chenille body. Whip finish just behind the rear of the cone and allow the thread to slide in under the cone and the collar dubbing. Optional Articulation: Tie the lead fly on a Gamakatsu B10 size 2-4 hook and the trailing fly on a MFC ring eye hook in size 4-6. Add skirts instead of tail on the lead fly. See general articulation procedures outlined in the Kelly Galloup videos: youtu.be/gQvQ6OwTCrg & youtu.be/PFJ5PhVLU48
  2. I just moved to South Texas and small crayfish patterns tend to work very well for smallmouth bass, Guadalupe bass, panfish and the Rio Ciclids. They also work for other fish like catfish and trout as well. So I decided to come up with my own small crayfish pattern. Now, I am sure someone has tied something similar to this in the past, maybe even exact. If you know of a fly that is similar or exact that has already been tied, please let me know. Pretty much everything under the sun has been tied before, and someone always seems to lay claim to a pattern. In fact I will regularly have multiple people lay claim to the same fly every time I make a video. But, either way, I thought this combination of materials and way to put them onto a hook was something that would work for this area. So I made it. LOL Ok so, with that aside. This fly will be able to be fished like a nymph, but also like a crayfish streamer as well. I mean, you could float it under an indicator, or put it on as the sole fly, and site cast to fish. Bounce it off the bottom, or swim it right by them. I do think this fly is very versatile in the way you can fish it. You tell me what your experience with it is.
  3. What is commonly called the "brahma" bugger is an improvement on the original wooly bugger due to its incredible look, and movement when under the water. This fly pulsates due to the chickabou and soft hackle makeup. Now I call this the "soft hackle bugger" because I dont tie it with a brahma pelt. I find any soft hackle pelt with chickabout, or even the mini marabou packages paired up with the soft hackle packages will give the exact same effect for less money. You can also get longer or shorter fibered soft hackles this way, and a wider range of colors as well than just using the whiting brahma pelts. Basically any type of hen soft hackle with chickabou (or mini marabou) will work for this fly. I also added a bit of flash in the tail like I do with original wooly buggers, which from my knowledge wasn't originally done with the first version of this brahma bugger. You can also make this two tone, or even stripped by changing out colors of the hackle as well. For instance, alternating a darker and lighter hackle will give a neat effect. If you can stick around to the end of this video, I put some underwater footage of this fly, showing just how well this flows in the water. This fly really moves well, and every fiber seems to vibrate. The fly also pushes a fair amount of water as well, so its a great fly for many situations. I love swinging this fly in riffles for trout, but also it makes a great fly for a sink tip in a deep pool, or even in lakes for bass. Just like the original wooly bugger, I suspect this will work for just about any species out there including some salt water ones as well. As always im listing all the materials I used on this fly. Hook: Daiichi 1740 in size 8 Thread: Veevus 6/0 Tail: Chickabou/mini marabou Flash: Holographic Flashabou Body: Soft Hackle Head Cement: Solarez "ultra thin" UV Resin
  4. Simple pattern made with two white Marabou Plumes, Red Dumbbell Eyes, Pearl Chenille, Red Dacron Tying Thread, and a 1/0 Hook. Tied this one from memory of a fishing fly that was doing well on Striped Bass at Denison Dam. Calling it the Denison Dam Dawber or Triple D. Going to try it out next trip to the tailrace to Texoma - Denison Dam! Stay tuned! #flytying #flyfishing Simple Fly Tying - The Denison Dam Dawber
  5. The Everglades Special is an EP style saltwater streamer fly that is a specific coloration. This is a popular color pattern for, you guessed it, the everglades. Well, anywhere that fish eat mullet as its an imitation of mullet. Its a great fly for fishing Redfish, tarpon, sea trout, snook, and other saltwater predator fish. However this can be tied in other color variations to make a pattern that could work for other species of fish as well. It would be a great fly to fish for bass, pike and other large predatory freshwater fish. So I guess you could say its not just a saltwater streamer fly, but also could work as a freshwater streamer as well. As for the materials I used, traditionally they are tied with EP fiber, hence an EP style streamer fly. However I used something called Congo hair which is an inexpensive version. It works as well in my opinion, and fishes just the same. Most people will not know the difference between the two, because they are so similar. This fly works best stripped and paused where it will get a slight side to side action. But constant stripping of the fly works well, and the slow sink makes any pause seem to entice fish. The profile, coloration and action of this fly seem to entice even the most stubborn redfish. Once you get the hang of tying these also, it is quite quick to tie. You should not have much trouble at all filling a streamer box in an afternoon. Trimming these is probably the most difficult part of the entire operation, but once you get the hang of trimming a couple, you will start to speed up and get more consistent. I like to tie up multiple, then trim all of them at once. This helps with consistencies with trimming and tying as you get the hang of just doing the same thing over and over.
  6. A few months ago I tied up a fly called the Brahma Bugger, which I did not invent but loved fishing and tying the fly very much! The fly was originally tied by the tightlines youtube channel, and I re-named the fly "soft hackle bugger" because I did not use a brahma pelt, but instead used a soft hackle pelt from whiting. That video did really well, and that fly has been an amazing fish catcher for me. So I set out to improve on the fly, and make it better for a wider range of fish species. I wanted to articulate the fly, and give it even more movement in the water. So I present you with the articulated brahma bugger, which catches more fish than I could imagine. In fact, it far out fished any other fly I had with me on my last trip. I could not keep the fish off of it. And it seemed to attract some really large trout as well! This articulated fly is really my favorite streamer now, and I don't think I will be fishing anywhere without at least a few in my box. As always I am listing all the materials I used on this fly. Hook: Firehole sticks #811 in size 6 Shank: Small sized Fish Joint Thread: Veevus 6/0 in Olive Feathers: Whiting Coq de Leon soft hackle with chickabou pelt died Chartreuse Wire: Small Intruder wire in black Cement: Brush on Zap a Gap Head cement: Solarez "Bone Dry" UV resin
  7. These can be tied up very quickly, which is rare to find effective streamer patterns that you can tie so quickly. I can fill up a box in a few hours, and the beauty is that its fairly simple, so it lends to a wide range of color combos as well. Especially since we are using rabbit strips and laser dubbing, both of which have quite a few colors available. Using a cap like this, you really don't have to worry too much about neat heads. In fact, occasionally I mess up my whip finish or how I layer the fly. And the head comes out looking terrible. But thats ok when using these caps, because all your mess-ups at the head are covered by this cap. This fly also is very durable for that reason, a fish will not be able to touch your whip finish with their teeth because that cap is in the way. The cap is fairly heavy though, but they do make plastic weightless caps as well. So if you want a non-weighted streamer you could use them as well. But I do like the jigging motion this steel head gives. And its not overly heavy on these smaller flies, and I was able to cast with a 4wt rod even. As always I am listing all the materials in the description section of this video Hook: Fireholesticks #811 in size 6 - Cap: Fish-Skull Baitfish Heads, small Thread: Olive Veevus Powerthread 140 Tail: Olive Rabbit Zonker Strip Flash Dubbing: Pearl Ice Dub Head Stacking Dubbing: White and Olive, Senyo's Laser Dub Cap Adhesive: Super Glue Gel Eye Resin: Solarez Bone Dry
  8. A while back, a subscriber and customer of mine requested that I make a large articulated streamer for him. He wanted something for large browns pushing 30" that are primarily predatory in a lake he fishes. He has witnessed the browns attacking rainbow trout up to 10 inches, and says they just wont eat anything else. So, I started on this pattern. I spent a few weeks getting the tying down on this fly, and blew through quite a few hooks. I started off with a lead dumbbell eye for weight and to keep it swimming upright, and then settled on keeling the fly with some lead wraps. He wanted to keep this from sinking too fast though, as he was going to fish it on a sink tip line. So I found the minimum wraps of lead was 5 on a .025 lead wire to keep it swimming upright. Also, after I filmed this video, I realized that you have to fish it for a minute or two, getting it to sink underwater to soak up water in the rabbit strip in order for it to relax while swimming. The hide holds air bubbles, and wants to rise to the surface. Which makes for a funny looking back on the fly. However I don't think that will effect its fishability as it could be perceived to a fish as a dorsal fin. However after a few minutes of fishing (or me soaking it in a bowl of water) I did find that it swam more evenly, and that tail kicked out to the side more, rather than wanting to lift up. So I myself have not been able to fully test this fly on fish. I just don't have anywhere I can fish for large browns or pike, or bass that are praying on 6" rainbows. However I will keep you guys updated on whether or not this works out for him, and if he allows, maybe post up a picture of his very large brown trout he catches with it. However after working on getting this fly to swim just right for a few months, I am confident fish will like it based on its action. Ok as promised here is a list of the materials I used on this fly. Tail Hook: Gamakatsu B10S in size 2 Front Hook: Ahrex PR320 in size 4/0 Thread: Veevus 140 Power thread in Olive Tail Feathers: Olive and White Blood Quill Marabou Tail Flash: Pearl Krystal Flash Top Wing: Black Barred Olive Rabbit Strip Belly: Custom Dubbing Brush Pink Accent: Pink Version of the Custom Dubbing Brush Wire: Thin Black Intruder Wire Bead: I got it at walmart... Just find a random plastic bead with holes large enough for the wire to fit through twice. Dubbing: White and Olive Senyos Laser Dub Eye: 7mm "Ice" Living Eyes Eye Adhesive: Gell Super Glue Head Cement: Solarez "ultra thin" UV Resin
  9. here my new fly tying video for a mini streamer; subscribe to my new YT channel for new fly patterns! https://youtu.be/AQKaE1AqmTg
  10. jig streamer https://youtu.be/NrkURcs1X1A
  11. Hey Everyone, Just signed up, what great site! I've been on here a bit for research in my fly tying endeavours. I would consider myself a novice fly tyer at best. Just getting away from the basic patterns and getting into tying streamers. I have a few questions on these patterns I came across. I love these flies but am having trouble figuring out the material used on these 2 patterns. I think the materials are mostly synthetics but I am not too familiar on what they are. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kyle
  12. I had one of my subscribers ask me to tie up a few of these for him. They are good flies, and I have tied them up for him in the past. He said they were effective and durable, and wanted more. So I decided to tie them for you guys as well, and make a video on them. Fathead minnows are a common food source for predatory fish in many parts of the US, and this fly mimics a larger sized one pretty well. They have a dark lateral line down their body, and a dark head. The head is also really fat. So this fly works as a great imitation. Here is a list of materials I used on this fly. Hook: Gamakatsu B10S in size 6 Thread: Veevus power thread 140 in brown Weight: .025 sized lead wire Tail: Arctic wind dubbing in black Body: Arctic wind dubbing in white Back: Arctic wind dubbing in tan Head: Arctic wind dubbing in brown Head cement: Solarez "Bone Dry" ultra thin UV curing resin
  13. This is a popular fly! In the last few weeks, I have been asked to tie this in different color patterns. First I tied in a baby brown trout coloration, and then someone asked me to tie it in a rainbow trout color. Now, someone recently asked me to tie this in a perch color. So here it is! This subscriber of mine said he fishes a lake called Navajo Lake, and I have fished it a few times before. There are no baitfish other than perch and bluegill in that lake. So it makes sense that he would want this coloration of a fly. Its a good little fly, and very effective! Check out the underwater movement! And this has been a very effective fly in many of the colorations I have tied it in. So I have no doubt it will work wonders in this color pattern as well. As always, here is a list of the materials I used on this fly. You are welcome to try other materials, and you do not have to stick to these, however I am listing them to help you know what I specifically used. Hook: Gamakatsu B10S in size 2 Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140 in hot orange Weight: Large red painted lead dumbbell eyes Body: Ice Dub in pearl and orange Tail: Barred yellow magnum rabbit strip Head: Senyo's laser dub in white and olive Head Cement: Solarez Bone Dry UV Resin
  14. This fly works awesomely for bass. I have tied it in many color combos already. One perch coloration, a baby brown trout coloration, and now a baby rainbow coloration. I have caught quite a few bass on this fly. Its one of my best producers for fishing my local lake (navajo lake) in New Mexico. My buddy Kyle and I were fishing last summer and we probably caught 20+ fish each and were fishing this pattern most of the day. Just in a perch color. Here are the materials I used on this fly. Hook: Gamakatsu B10S in size 2 - Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140 in Olive - Weight: Large Lead Painted Dumbbell - Accent: Ice Dubbing in Pearl and Pink - Tail: Magnum Rabbit Strip in White - Dubbed head: Lazer Dubbing in Olive and White - Head Cement: Bone Dry UV Resin -
  15. These flies are easy to tie, and very effective on many species across the fly fishing spectrum. From freshwater fish including trout, bass and walleye, to saltwater fish like speckled trout, redfish, striper, and false albacore, This fly will catch just about any fish that is predatory on smaller baitfish. Its also pretty durable, and will last through many hard strikes from toothy fish. The movement from the craft fur is incredible, and really does seem to be very realistic. The fly also looks great, and has just the right amount of sparkle to attract the fish, but not spook them. It can be tied in a wide range of colors as well. I tie this on a Gamakatsu SS15 hook in size 2, but you can use a heavier wire hook for larger fish species, and a thinner hook for trout. You want the length of the hook shaft to be about the same though, so keep that in mind. Also, you can use a stronger thread than I used, just if its thicker, make sure and use less thread wraps. I prefer the thinner personally because its easier to keep the materials situated and even with it. To give some extra weight to this fly, you could make a few wraps with some lead wire as well. But I prefer this fly to suspend or slowly sink the way it does. Hook: Gamakatsu SS15 in size 2 Thread: Veevus 10/0 in brown Hook Wrap: UTC Sparkle Braid in tan Fiber: Extra Select Craft Fur in white, tan, and dark brown Eyes: 3D eyes in 5-6mm UV Resin: Solarez Thin Formula, and Solarez "Bone Dry" Ultra Thin Formula
  16. I use this bunny leech the most for nymphing. I know it sounds weird, but this streamer works great for an attractor. I will drop a small midge behind this, and fish it under an indicator or even "euro nymph" it. Also, it is a great streamer for fishing with light rigs. This is easily casted with a 4wt, so it is great for small fish and small streams. Having no hide, makes this fly super light and easy to cast. I always keep some of these in the box with me no matter what river I fish. It has great movement with the bunny hair, and its a great attractor. Rabbit fur has many colors and is widely available at many fly shops, and its rather inexpensive compared to other natural materials. So this fly is a great fly for budge as well. Here is a list of materials I used on this fly. Hook: Umpqua U301 in size 10 Thread: UTC Ultra Thread 70 in Red Fur: Magnum Rabbit Zonker in natural color Head Cement: Solarez Bone Dry
  17. Wooly buggers are probably one of the most popular and versatile streamer patterns ever tied. They are effective on such a wide variety of fish, from freshwater to even saltwater, warm water to cold water. Almost every fly fisherman has a few wooly buggers in their box. The Crystal Bugger is a variant of the wooly bugger, and it is a bit more flashy. It uses a flashy type chenille to attract fish in more dirty water. Here is a list of materials I used on the fly Hook: Dai-Riki 700 size 8 Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140 in white Tail: White Bugger Marabou Tail Flash: Pearl Crystal Flash Wire: Silver UTC Ultra Wire in Small Hook Wrap: Pearl Estaz Feather: Grizzly Hackle
  18. This fly worked for me out in Corpus, I caught about 50% of my speckled trout on it, and it was rather easy to tie, and also cast. In fact, it casted so well compared to some other flies that I exclusively used this fly on my 3rd day fishing. This is rather easy to tie, and hard to mess up. The Fish Masks really make tying this easy, just get your materials on the hook, then slip over the mask and whala! You have a finished fly! Really is a great fly to use and tie. Here is a list of materials I used on the fly. Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 in size 1 Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140 in Brown Weight: .015 Lead Wire Flash: Pearl Flashabou Body: Congo Hair in Polar Bear, Caddis Tan, and Dark Brown UV Resin: Solarez "Bone Dry" Cap: Fish Skull Fish Mask size #6 Cap Adhesive: Fletch Tite Cap Eyes: 5MM 3D eyes
  19. Brown shrimp are one of the most common foods for many of the fish species in the Gulf of Mexico. From Redfish, to Speckled trout, to Permit and even flounder. All of these species eat brown shrimp and eat a lot of them. This has to be one of the most common baits to mimic when tying flies or buying lures. So you bet I am tying up a few brown trout patterns for my trip to Corpus Christy in October. This pattern closely mimics a brown trout, and also swims hook point up. It will sink to the bottom quickly due to the dumbbell eyes, and has lots of movement due to the rubber legs. Pretty much a deadly combination for redfish and speckled trout. Below is a list of all the materials I used to tie this fly. Hook: Gamakatsu SS15 in size 2 Thread: Danville 210 Flat waxed in brown Tail: Black barred rubber legs Dubbing: Trilobal dubbing in brown stone Weight: Gold lead dumbbell eyes in 5mm UV Resin: Solarez "Bone Dry"
  20. If you have ever fished for bass, you know that in most instances, a rattle helps attract them. They are also attracted big baits. Things that push lots of water. I created this fly to still be rather light, but have a big profile under the water. This in my opinion is the perfect fly for bass when they are targeting baitfish, and also a great fly for other species like like pike or even big trout. With a saltwater hook, you could tie this for many saltwater species as well. The flexible UV resin really makes a nice head on the fly, but its not hard and stiff, but it will flex a bit, which makes it more durable. It will give it a unique action as well, and help push water around the craft fur to make it move quite a bit more. The side to side motion will really drive those bass nuts. Hook: Gamakatsu B10S in size 1/0 Weight: 4mm black conehead Thread: Danville's 210 flat waxed in white Tail: Extra select craft fur in white and tan Rattle: Wapsi pyrex round end mini/3mm fly rattle Wrap: Tinsel Braid Eyes: Fish Scull living eyes 7mm wind UV Resin: Solarez Flex
  21. This small crawdad streamer works so well, I was catching fish I want even targeting with it. I went out fishing for carp, and got a carp and even some smallmouth bass. In fact, the carp I caught on this fly was 30" long, and the largest bass I caught that day was a good 3.5lbs. Most crayfish patterns are larger sized streamers, that are heavy and hard to cast. This fly is refreshingly light, and small. Easy to cast, and also easy for fish to swallow. When targeting carp or trout, sometimes too large is a bad thing. Hook: TMC 9395 in size 10 Thread: UTC Ultra Thread 140 in Brown Claws: Rubber Legs (preferably two tone) Dubbing: STS Trilobal Dub - Brown Stone Weight: Gold Dumbbell Eye 4mm or 5/32" Top Wing: Fox Fur Adhesive: Solarez "Bone Dry" UV Curing Resin
  22. The clouser minnow is one of the most effective and popular streamers ever made. With any popular fly, there comes variations of it. This variation uses rabbit strips instead of ducktail to tie the fly. Its tied basically the same way, however there are some differences with tying technique since the materials are different. This fly will move more in the water due to the rabbit strip. While bucktail moves really nicely, it doesn't quite flow as well as rabbit fur. Being tied hook point up means this fly will be less prone to snags, and can be fished on the bottom more than some other point down type streamers. Here is a list of materials used on this fly. Hook: Gamakatsu SS15 size 2 Thread: Danville's 210 flat waxed in white Weight: Lead dumbell eyes - Medium, yellow painted Top wing: Rabbit zonker in olive Bottom wing: Rabbit zonker in white/cream
  23. Sculpin streamers are some of the more common and effective streamer patterns for trout. This one utilizes the fish skull heads to make a simple and yet effective streamer pattern for trout. Sculpin typically like to hang out near the bottom. This fly is heavy enough to stay deep even in faster moving water. Most flies though when fished deep like this tend to get hung up on rocks or other debris on the bottom, but this fly swims hook point up, and will help keep from getting snagged as often. Being so easy to tie, you can tie quite a few for your box each time you go out fishing, so you won't be without a good sculpin pattern. I fancied it up a little with a hook wrap and dubbing, but that is not necessary. You can tie it with just the hook, fish skull head, and rabbit zonkers and still have a very effective fly. http://youtu.be/-1yDIcxwDVg Hook: Gamakatsu B10S in size 1/0 Thread: UTC Ultra Thread 140 in dark olive Tail: Barred Olive Rabbit Zonker Strip Hook Wrap: Tinsel Twist Belly: Yellow Kraken Dubbing Collar: Barred Olive Rabbit Zonker Strip Head: Fish Skull Sculpin Head
  24. This small streamer has a bit of a background. I went fishing up in a high sierra lake, and threw every single fly I had in my box at the fish. This was the last fly I tried, and all of a sudden I got a hit, and another hit. The fish were hitting this fly left and right. I even had a few jump out of the water for it. So, many of you had asked I tie one like it. The only problem is I couldn't get orange bucktail and couldn't get the exact same hook. But it is all close enough, and the fly turned out pretty good. I think I will have great luck with this fly. Hook: Umpqua TMC 300 size 12 Thread: UTC Ultra Thread 70 in Black Wing and tail: Bucktail in forest green, red, white and pink Dubbing: Laser dub in white Ribbing: Holographic silver tinsel UV Resin: Solarez "bone dry"
  25. The Surf Candy was originally designed by Bob Popovics and has become a staple in many saltwater fishermans boxes. Like any good fly pattern, over the years there have been many variations made. This variation utilizes a dumbbell eye to keep the hook point up which will make it a bit more weedless. While not fool proof, it will snag much less easy on driftwood or other debris on the sea floor. That means you can fish it in some places that you normally could not fish the regular surf candy. I like adding the red sparkle type dubbing right behind the dumbbell eyes to mimic a gill or bleeding spot on the fish. However this is not required and you could leave that part out. Here is a list of all the materials I used today _________________________ Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 in size 1 1st Thread: Danville's 210 Flat Waxed in Red 2nd Thread: Danville's Fine Monofilament Thread Weight: Painted Medium Lead Dumbbell Eye Bleed Spot: Starburst Dubbing in red Bottom Fiber: Unique Hair in clear/white Top Fiber: Super Hair in light blue 1st Resin: Solarez "Thin Hard" UV curing resin 2nd Resin: Solarez "Thick Hard" UV curing resin 3rd Resin: Solarez "Bone Dry" UV curing resin
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