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Anyone here into reloading? I've been starting to watch a lot of videos on it and thinking I will probably start into it this summer. Want to start reloading 9mm and .223/.556 and probably .308 once I get the AR build done. I'm hitting the range about once (sometimes twice) per week now so figure with the price of ammo I might be able to save a bit by reloading my own since I'm spending about $50-$65 per week on ammo now.

I have a buddy that is deep into reloading who is going to help show me how, but before that I'd like to start gathering all the necessary equipment and thought I'd see if anyone here does it and maybe could help draw up a short list of must have equipment it takes.

From what I can tell I will for sure need...

Press (prob single stage to start out?)

scale

brass trimmer,

Calipers (already own some)

De burring tool (already own one)

Dies for each caliber

Brass tumbler

What else will be needed far as equipment?

 

 

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I’ve been reloading since the 80’s. 9mm, 38/357 and .45 no rifle. I use to shoot on a high level pistol team and would go through at least 500 rounds a week. Reloading was a must. I will say there is not as much savings in it anymore as the components cost an arm and a leg. Only stopped because I rarely do any recreational shooting anymore. it is not a difficult process and if you have the time a single stage press will be fine but you will be upgrading to a progressive in short order. What a single press does is make it you intimately aware of how to change out and set the dies because you will be doing it often. You just have to sit down and resize and knock the primers out on every case, change the die resize and prime every case, change the die, add powder to every case and press in a bullet and crimp. 
 

 I have a Dillon RL550 B progressive. I started on a single stage Lyman Orange crush and quickly jumped to a progressive. I haven’t reloaded anything in about 10 years and I have been toying with selling my entire set up but hesitate because of the ammo shortages of recent times. If your researching it I highly, strongly recommend Dillon reloading equipment especially for pistol ammo. I like the Dillons because they have tool heads you set the dies in that you can leave them in forever. When you change calibers on the press you simply pull the entire tool head out, set it on a stand, and slide a new tool head in that already has dies for another caliber. Swap out the shell plate on the bottom and your up and running a different caliber in a couple minutes. I also have a couple powder measures permanently mounted on the tool heads so I don’t have to change the powder measure either.  
 

you will also need a powder measure. Also you don’t need it but if your gonna use a single stage your gonna want some plastic trays to hold the casings upright. It makes putting the powder in them easier and quicker. 

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I reload small batch, mostly rifle, for precision for single shot and bolt guns. That is where a single stage shines, but if you are shooting a lot and need quantity you may want to go to a progressive. It is not always easy to sell a single stage, used, for a decent price (close to what you paid). A turret press is in the middle, nice if you shoot both rifle and pistol. good precision and faster than single stage but not the output of a progressive press. Look at a turret before you make up your mind on a single.

Add a bullet puller and powder funnel to your list. I use DIY drilled wood loading blocks to segregate my stages between operations, but rarely work with more than 20 to 50 rounds at a time.

At today's prices and often short availability of components you may not save much money vs some factory loaded rounds. do the math prior and add your time and reloading equipment before trying to source components; primers $70 to 90 per 1000, powder $30 to 45 a can, bulk 556 bullets .10 to .12 cents each (magtech 55 g), .24 to .35 each for Hornaday 

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To me, half of the fun of shooting is reloading. I even cast my own bullets for .38 Special and low velocity .44 magnum loads. If shooting a lot, Dillon has a good reputation; same with RCBS. Keep the single stage as it comes in handy for loading onesy-twosey loads when working up a load for accuracy.

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20 or so years ago i bought a lyman reloading kit, it came with everything except for a brass tumbler, reloading dies, brass, powder etc. I got a 416 rem mag custom built for me is the reason i started reloading, the ammo would cost me between 8$ to 10$ a round of the shelf, reloading my own is 2.50$ a round with premium bullets if i dont include the price of brass. You can save quite a few bucks especially on the larger caliber rifle. Some of the powder is hard to near impossible to get now.

On a side note for the longest time i could not find brass for the 416 rem mag, i had to fire form 375 h&h brass. It annoyed me that my rounds said 375h&h , i finally found brass last year, it wasn't cheap.

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I started reloading when I got serious into handgun competition shooting (IDPA mostly with some IPSC). Bought a Lee Pro 1000 in 9mm to start. Good press with some quirks, but if you have some basic mechanical ability it works well. I can crank out 400rds per hour (handgun), or about 200rds per hour for .223 (extra steps required with trimming and crimping). If your going to be bulk reloading I would recommend the progressive press, just follow the process carefully and take your time.

You laid out pretty much all of the tools you'll need to get started, and others mentioned a funnel and bullet puller. You'll be set on required tools.

Depending on how you get components (bulk is good), you can save a significant amount of money. Back when 100rds of 9mm training ammo was about $20-25, I was loading 100rds 9mm for less than $9 with scavenged brass. Obviously prices and availability have changed, but it can definitely be worth it and doesn't require a huge investment to get started.

Welcome to the "brass is life" club.

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Good info guys thanks I appreciate it.

I just ordered a brass catcher for my Ar, figure if I start saving my brass now then come summer when I am ready to get into reloading then I'll prob have a ton of 223 brass on hand that way.

When it comes to reloading manuals are there certain ones that are good/must haves or are they all pretty much the same?

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I forgot to mention that I have a brass cleaner/polisher that used ground walnut shells and a liquid polish. It vibrates to clean the brass. There is a sifter that you pour the brass and walnut shells into and turn it to separate the two. Check the primer pocket as a piece of shell will get stuck there.

Manuals might depend on whose powder and components you use. My Speer manual is about 40 years old. Remember, ther are a bunch of new powders and components on the market now.

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19 hours ago, Steeldrifter said:

Good info guys thanks I appreciate it.

I just ordered a brass catcher for my Ar, figure if I start saving my brass now then come summer when I am ready to get into reloading then I'll prob have a ton of 223 brass on hand that way.

When it comes to reloading manuals are there certain ones that are good/must haves or are they all pretty much the same?

One tool for .223 brass that you'll want to pick up is a primer pocket reamer/chamfer for any brass that has a crimped in primer. 

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And so it begins. My buddy dropped off a single stage press and tumbler today. I asked him what he wanted for them, he wouldn't take anything so can't beat good friends. Just looking at die sets and brass trimmers and a few other things now. Was planning on starting reloading maybe mid summer but I think I may be able to get started a lot sooner than that now.

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I’m guessing that’s an old RCBS rock chucker. It surely looks like an RCBS powder measure. I’d mount the powder measure on another separate stand. When I had a single stage it was easier to simply load the powder in the case 50 at a time in a holder and then press in a bullet on the press. That’s a good friend, there is nothing wrong with that press. 

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I would have made something since it’s just a stand but that’s exactly what I’m talking about. Some people like to drop their powder in through the die when expanding the neck. I found this to be a pain. Get a few of these case holders. After you run all your cases through the resizer die and knock the old primer out. Run them all through the die to Expand the neck and put a new primer in. Then place them in the case holders and run them all under the powder measure, put a bullet on top and then run them through the press to seat the bullet and crimp. I purchased separate roll crimp. It’s been 30 years or so since I used a single stage press so I may be a little foggy on it but it’s pretty straight forward when you get into the zone. 

 

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Okay cool. I'm actually 3D printing a 9mm case holder tray right now. They also have a file for the powder measure stand as well so I might print that as well and see how it comes out.

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22 hours ago, Steeldrifter said:

3D printing a 9mm case holder

Now that's way beyond my wood blocks and drilled holes.  Strongly agree with Greg you'll be changing dies enough; I dislike dropping powder thru the die . I ended up with a turret press and additional plates. The powder measure stand you found or you can make one, add a funnel in the case neck then back to seating and crimping. Get a current load data book with the new powders listed, be careful different brands of powders with the same #(example IMR, Accurate and Hodgdon all make a 4350 they are not interchangeable. Another help is the Powley Computer, old but a safe slide rule devise used with the Powley PSI calculator but it uses PSI vs CUP (copper units of pressure) typically seen today. I like the Lyman manual but any of the current charge load data manuals are acceptable. Steve with your OCD I fear you are heading down a rabbit hole🐇🙄 you will have a chronograph shortly.                         

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