Ol'Nog 0 Report post Posted November 8, 2022 Having run out of suitably shaded wool and dubbing for the body on Lady Caroline's ( tying 1/0 to 3/0), I'm attempting to mix my own Dubbing. I've bought some Roving or Felting wool Olive and Brown ( enough of the stuff for 3 quid or so to last a lifetime) to achieve approximately a reasonable shade. However I'm not sure what staple length to cut up for the dubbing. I've tried 20mm and 25mm but not too happy with the result. Is there an ideal staple length I should cut the wool to? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niveker 0 Report post Posted November 9, 2022 I cut up yarn and wool for dubbing, but in much shorter lengths for smaller flies. What issues are you having? Have you tried not cutting it in shorter lengths? @utyer makes alot of his own dubbing, hopefully he'll chime in with a better answer. Very nice ties, by the way, what are you using to sub for heron? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WWKimba 0 Report post Posted November 9, 2022 When cutting yarn for dubbing, the base material is usually the determining factor.' For example, wool from most sheep is a bit stiffer than wool from, say, an alpaca is softer and limper. Synthetic yarns are usually stiffer and slicker. The rule of thumb is the stiffer and slipperier the material the longer you should cut it. One example I can think of is one of my favorite patterns, the Rackelhannen - it uses polypropylene (poly). Poly is very slick and stiff so you should cut it about 13 MM long at least. Otherwise, it will slip off the noodle dub. Also, if you are mixing your own dub, the shorter that you can cut the material the easier it is to mix. I guess I'm saying thatyou want to find the happy medium! Kim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ol'Nog 0 Report post Posted November 9, 2022 Hi niveker, I think the cut length maybe too long? As twisting the dubbing on the thread, part of it is untwisted, I twist on that bit, and the previously twisted dubbing comes loose. Thinking about it now, maybe the ideal staple length would equal the width of my fingers? Also I find removing the excess dubbing after completing the body is not easy. I've tried Blue Eared Pheasant from USA for the Hackle but it's difficult to get, so I'm using old Heron I got from francnsnaelda some years ago. Thanks for the compliment on the Lady Caroline's, I just enjoy tying them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ol'Nog 0 Report post Posted November 9, 2022 WWKimba hi, good info thanks. I'm gonna try cutting shorter roughly to the width of my fingers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niveker 0 Report post Posted November 9, 2022 👍, let us know how it turns out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
utyer 0 Report post Posted November 12, 2022 I haven't purchased dubbing in more than 30 years. With twisted wool or synthetic yarn, I start with a wire brush to shred the twisted yarn. Then I usually cut wool dubbing to about 1/2 inch. Synthetic dubbing a bit shorter, around 3/8 to 1/4. I cut off equal amounts of different colors, and blend 50 50 mixes in a coffee grinder. Then I can add to that mix with one or the other color until I get close to the shade I want. Twisting the dubbing fibers around the thread should be done in just one direction. I tie mostly smaller flies, so I start with a very thin amount. You could try a split loop of thread, and spin that up very tightly. I do so many different blends and am after a lot of different effects from very tight bodies to a wretched mess of fibers at times. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ol'Nog 0 Report post Posted November 14, 2022 Thanks utyer, good info I'll try the half inch staple length. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites