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Adam Gallant

Green Highlander-Kelson

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Well, first go at a Green Highlander, the Kelson version... I've been inspired to copycat Salarman's "What I'm doing at the moment" post... This one has a couple of issues, much of which stems from the underwing -- lesson here: stop and redo until the underwing is as perfect as possible: otherwise, the wing gets narly.

Critique welcome, as well as suggestions on techniques...

Green Highlander-Kelson.jpg

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I agree with Bruce on this one. You obviously show you have the ability to tie the classics. Simple basics will make for better flies.

Keep the tail length to about 1 1/2 times the gape of the hook. That will then set the tone for the overall proportions of the fly. That being said, my buddy Gordeaux has been giving me grief for years about my tails being too long :P  Another standard is 24 fibers in the main wing on a 2/0, 3/0, or 4/0 hook. If you go smaller or larger adjust to obtain the look you want. Finally I'd make the throat hackle a little longer.

Just keep on tying and enjoy the learning process.

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Thanks both for the great comments, I do appreciate it!

I'm going to keep going with this pattern until I get something I'm happier with... 

Some improvements in the attached, and I purposely made the wing thicker to bulk it up... The hackle and throat aren't what I like, just waiting on some new hackle to arrive... the tail is a bit more in proportion...

 

 

Green Highlander-Kelson 2.jpg

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Looking good. Now for another detail. If the horns were switched to the opposite side their curve would match the curve of the wing...a tip I got from John McLain. Length and position are spot on!! I like the fact that you have the one bar of the tippet underwing right over the butt. Nice touch.

I've attached a photo of how I prep my topping material. Doing good prep work makes for easier tying.

George

 

DSC_0001 (15).JPG

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Hi George, great suggestion on the horns! Never thought of that!!!

Also, I love what you show in terms of prepping toppings...  soak them, lay them on glass and until they release on their own... I know I have a more than a few pheasant heads where the the rachis in the toppings is curved, and although I've not tried this, I imagine the process you are showing brings them back to relevancy...

 

I really appreciate the great comments folks are providing, it's definitely making a difference in how I'm approaching things. I'm having a great time with this stuff. As my boss of bosses says, "I'd rather be a learn-it-all than a know-it-all" and this journey is really satisfying!

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Adam,

As a footnote to the topping prep. When I lay the feather on the glass, or in this case plexiglas, I use a bodkin (dubbing needle) to spread the fibers out to later get the cascade that looks so good as a topping and adds a certain something to the tail as well. You can also use that bodkin to shape the rachis into the curve that you want.

George

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11 hours ago, SalarMan said:

Adam,

As a footnote to the topping prep. When I lay the feather on the glass, or in this case plexiglas, I use a bodkin (dubbing needle) to spread the fibers out to later get the cascade that looks so good as a topping and adds a certain something to the tail as well. You can also use that bodkin to shape the rachis into the curve that you want.

George

George,I prepare mine exact same way

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I think I'm happy with this one...  I couldn't get the horns tied in to follow the curve of the wing, so that's as close as I could get it...

Thank you sincerely for all the great suggestions...

20230324_104232.jpg

 

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Don't worry too much about the horns...it's no big deal. I like the distinct improvement in the tail and topping - very nice. You are showing that you are much more tuned in to the details that make up most of what makes these flies special. Keep on tyin' !!!!!

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