Jump to content
Fly Tying
flytire

Braided loops ?

Recommended Posts

I have a couple of questions on installing braided loops. I'm looking for answers from the folks who use them not on the negatives of using them.

 

I know there are many different ways to attach a leader or a butt section to a fly line.

 

 

1. Do you use and install the entire length of the "braided loop" as it comes out of the package or do you shorten it up a bit before installing it ???

 

 

2. As you are installing the "braided loop", do you try to get the end of the fly line into the end of the internal part of the loop as far as it can go ???

 

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Flytire

I've been using these things for a few years, and have had no problems

on the water with them.

When I put them on the fly line, I push them on until the end of the line hits the loop, then hit that spot with a drop of LocTite.

Be careful if you heat the piece of shrink tubing with a lighter that you don't hold the flame too close, you'll burn the mesh sleeve. I don't use a flame, but hold it to a 100 watt bulb, that reduces the chance of damage a lot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not contradicting what Chase Creek said, but in my experience, the braided connectors were not a safe bet. I had two break on me! One just broke while I was casting. :dunno: I was using the Cortland brand. Maybe others are better.

 

 

 

~Bryce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive been using braided loops for years and the only one that failed on me was my fault, iv never had a problem with one that was properly instaled and secured. Please remember that these loops do have a rated # test, and use the one rated for the type of leader strengts you intend to use.

 

I always used the entire length of the braid and instaled it as far up the flyline as it could go.

 

After puting it on i use a few drops of superglue to secure the braided loop in a few spots. If the loop frayed at the end when instaling i will trim up the rough edges so it goes thru the guides easily, or you could use the shrink tube over this spot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The shrink tubing also serves as a nonbobber type of strike indicator...I've used the Orvis braided loops bor many years and had no problem with them. I would consider not using them on really light rods like 1 and 2 weights but for everything else they're fine....I think the the little bit of splash down would put those Ph.T's of the Farmington off a bit.

Hot Tuna

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use them, like them and I use a boiling pot of water to install them. Bring water to boil in pot, leave pot on element and completely submerge in water for 1 minute. No chance of burning line or over heating insde the shrink tube.

 

Oh I also use regular electronic shrink tube I find them more plyable then some of the others.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to all of you who submitted tip and tricks on installing a braided loop.

 

I used an Airflo Braided Loop vs the Cortland brand. I installed the entire length of the loop and even managed to insert the fly line into the internal part of the loop. The small tube that is supplied was then pushed to the frayed end of the loop, where I put some brushed on Loctite superglue and continued to push the tube over that. Then back at the loop end, I secured the loop to the fly line with a nail knot and applied the Loctite there also. Fished it yesterday with no problems whatsoever. Goes thru the guides real nice.

 

Again thanks to all who responded.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Use them, like them and I use a boiling pot of water to install them. Bring water to boil in pot, leave pot on element and completely submerge in water for 1 minute. No chance of burning line or over heating insde the shrink tube."

 

 

that's a good idea !!! :D I already melted 2 of them using a lighter, so I think I'll try that next time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do not have A light bulb available to shrink the tubing rather than a lighter heat a knife up on a stove the shrink the tubing down. I like them myself and install them the way shown above

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Cortland brand for my 6WT and 8WT (different sizes) so far without one problem. I run it up the length of the line (also i have about 2/3's the way) and to not over heat the line i use a heat gun then finish it with a drop of UV Knot Sense at the end. With multiple branch catches :whistle: and just recently landing a 20"+ FAT sucker in a swift moving current on a 6WT, i really don't think strength is a problem. :headbang:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used them for years and concur w/ what others have suggested about installing and heating...btw I like the idea of boiling water instead of a lighter...I'll have to give it a try on my new rods.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

post-4200-1146586867_thumb.jpg

Slide the end of the fly line into the "chinese finger trap" all the way up. Use zap-a-gap or loc-tite, just a wee drop, and optionally use a heat shrink or rubber tube, about 1/2" long.

I think these are about $3 at Wally World or any fly shop for a package of 2 or 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...