Guest Report post Posted June 3, 2004 I've been working on some March Browns with the extended bodies. I'm using some old leader butt ends for the foundation. (probably 25-30# test) I flatten one end of the leader (the end that gets attached to the hook) and leave a decent tag for the tail section. I guesstimate the length of the tail and tie the fibbets at the junction of the hook and the mono. From there I'll take the thread and trap the fibbets on the topside of the mono all the way to where I figured the end will be. Cool, no problem there Here's where I run into problems. The mono is already curved upward do to the memory. (Perfect) As I dub the thread the weight of the bobbin seems to remove that curvature and I can't seem to get it back. The result is an almost straight tail instead of the upswept look. Also, is there an easy way to use a dubbing loop? I would prefer to use real rabbit underfur instead of some of the Spectrablends I'm currently using. I've tried it without a loop and it's just not durable. I'm afraid if I have my dubbing spinner hanging from the tail it will end up under the fly...LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pujic 0 Report post Posted June 3, 2004 Shoe, I know exactly what you mean. Are you set on using mono for the extended tail? If not, you may want to experiment with deer or elk hair (which will float longer, and allow you to shape it once it's tied). I use the following method, although there are many others: http://www.onlineflytyer.com/article_extendedspin.asp Just a thought. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 3, 2004 Yup, Mono I followed the instructions of the Benchside Reference. Having something solid like a needle sounds like a perfect solution. Thanks, Nick. I'll give that a shot. Excellent step-by-step!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pujic 0 Report post Posted June 3, 2004 NP. Here is a thought. What if you used one of those curved sowing needles instead of a straight one and then tied the extended body? I can't see why you couldn't use mono along side the needle, as long as you kept your wraps fairly tight and used a very fine needle. That way the result would be a curved, or bent tail instead of straight. Anyways, let us know how it goes... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 3, 2004 I decided not to bust chops in this one! Go to the local craft store and buy a package of Repair Needles, the funky curved, triangle-tapered and so forth needles used to stitch canvas or leather or sailcloth or a gash in your leg (in a worst case situation, you understand! ) Then, like Pujey Baby said, you can marry all the curves together and have them stay tight and extract the needle when done winding. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 3, 2004 Perfect! Davie, have you turned a new leaf? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 3, 2004 Nah- but considering this is the day of the full moon and I'm slugging it out at work with the 'brain surgeons', not to mention I'm in a bit of pain, it wasn't worth trying to be cute- it wouldn't have worked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 3, 2004 Why bother with all that palaver.??.? Try this. Mount the hook in the vice or hold it tight between your fingers. Wind the tying thread from the eye to halfway down the shank At this point take a bunch of 15 - 20 longfibred deerhair, comb out the fluff and align the points. Tie in the deerhair securely with the points of the hair going back over the vice head (or yr wrist). Lash the hair firmly to the shank, then hold the deerhair between thumb and forefinger of your left hand(you are right handed here) take five or six turns of thread toward the rear of the bunch, making sure the turns are evenly spaced. Then take a couple of turns of the thread around the hair and secure with a half hitch. Now take five - six turns again around the deerhair, returning the thread to the point where the deerhair is tied in. Secure the thread on the hook to avoid slipping. You now have a detached body with a flared end. Cut out most of the deer hairs, leaving enough for tails. put a drop of HardasNails on the back end of the body to secure the thread at the half hitch, build the wings , add hackle and thorax; wind the hackle and finish As a matter of interest this can be achieved at the waterside without a vice No needles are required Tools needed - scissors and bobbin holder; fingers and teeth Oh - a full moon helps too. Happy tying Roy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
temno pivo 0 Report post Posted June 4, 2004 Rooster feathers have a natural bend and float, a suggeston might be to tie in one of these and work the dubbing up the stem of the feather. The stem would be the thich base of the feather stripped away. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pujic 0 Report post Posted June 4, 2004 Shoe, I just thought of another alternative. What about using mallard for the extended body and tail? Tie it in "Wally" style (Wally Lutz). Mallard is available in many colors so you can match the hatch just fine, whether it be Hendricksons, March Browns, Green Drakes, whatever... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 4, 2004 Once again the answers are right here Well I found a few minutes to play, but got side-tracked and forgot to half-hitch the tail. DUH. I finished the fly and noticed the end getting a little loose while trimming. No problem, a little super glue will fix that. Seems that Bob (my shoemaker) exchanged the fine tip with our larger one. Glue all down in the jaws. Thankfully I had some Un-Cure (debonder). 20 minutes later..... Using the deer hair method worked quite well. Sure beats the slippery qualities of mono. I will also try the "stem method" and not dubbing it like Roy described. Sounds much like the Borcher's Kevin submitted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marinac 0 Report post Posted June 4, 2004 hmmm am new to tying but have you tryed to use epoxy over the mono before you put it to the hook as i see it when mono is wet it is gone from sight therefore you get the same effect as haveing a clear body ( you can even color the epoxy to get a different effect) NOTE : i am not sure this will work i am just thinking it MIGHT work marinac Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 4, 2004 Well the hackle is kinda long and the egg sack a bit coarse, but it's a start. Marinac, I've thought of using adhesives, but I was afraid that would make the tail too heavy. Perhaps a very light coat to firm it up may not hurt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted June 4, 2004 Hey Ralf (Looking Good) OSD. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
temno pivo 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2004 The fly looks a good one, a bit of shagginess makes the fly float a bit better and the fish bite better I think. Temno Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites