Basic Photo taking

[TitanFlies 0]

Ok, I'm having a hard time with photographing my flies. I have a basic 10 megapixel camera that's of OK quality I guess. Anyways, the pictures are always pixelated/blurry when I try to enhance them. Is there something I should be doing like lighting, backround, or using a tripod? PM me if you have any suggestions.

[cruncher 0]

In your post, you could have listed a little more info on your camera (point and shoot vs. DSLR) and other info as to what you have been doing/setup to take pics, but I'll toss my 2 cents in.

 

Since you mentioned a tripod, it appears you're not using one and that, while not a necessity, is most definitely recommended to stop any shake. Then use the self timer option if using the tripod.

 

If you have a P&S, there should be a macro setting to use, so look for an icon like a butterfly or something.

 

And it helps a lot to have a picture editing program, ex: photoshop.

 

You don't necessarily need to get in as close as possible either, just concentrate on getting things in focus even if the fly may not fill the screen of the camera because with software, you can crop closer around the fly and then bring it to the fore front. Hope that helps.

 

AL

[flytire 0]

read some of this

 

http://flyartstudio.com/wordpress/?p=323

 

read your cameras manual. it will describe the functions and let you know how close you can get to the subject.

 

set camera in macro mode. its the tulip.

 

use a tripod. gets rid of shakes.

 

depress the shutter button 1/2 of the way down to let the camera focus on the subject. once focused, depress it the rest of the way down.

 

use a background color that is pleasing to the eye, not the clutter on your tying desk.

 

adjust the white balance of your camera. its in the manual on how to do it.

 

light. use plenty of light. 1 light above and 1 below the subject

 

read the link i provided. lots of good info in there.

 

read the manual

 

get a free photo editor online. i recommend photoscape. we are talking fly photos, not pretty models that need a touch up here and there.

[TitanFlies 0]

Thanks for the response guys, really appreciate it.

[Whiskey Creek 0]

1 more lighting suggestion: take the photo outside during the day, in the shade. You should have plenty of light to handhold the camera in macro mode. The shade is important, the direct sun is harsh and casts shadows.

[blakejd 0]

you may also need to adjust your metering mode to center weight. This will help prevent some problems because the cameras algorithm doesn't know what you want to shoot so it will meter the whole pic.

[CoachBob 0]

You can go to amazon.com and search for "studio in a box"

There are several varieties of table top photo set-ups that allow you to put your vise in the lighted box and snap.

Some even come with a small tripod.

Here's a sample. [This photo is one of my patterns that recently was featured in FlyFishing in SaltWater]

[TitanFlies 0]

This is all I got even from following the guy from flyart.com

 

 

I know I'm doing something wrong, I just don't know what. Any further help would be appreciated.

 

I know there's a lot of noise and the picture is really not sharp at all.

[blakejd 0]

titan what type of camera are you shooting specifically? What setting are you using? It looks like your ISO is way too high but can't really add more unless I know more specifics.

[rockworm 0]

Since parts of the cork appear sharp I suspect:

1) You are using autofocus, and

2) Your depth of field is too small.

If you want your fly to appear sharp, you need to focus on it. Use manual focus, if your camera permits.

To increase the depth of field, manually increase the aperature number to its highest setting (8.0 in most digital cameras.) The higher the aperature number, the longer the exposure required. So you will also need to change the shutter speed.

This is what I do:

-Use as much light as possible (I place one floodlight above and one below, as close as possible.)

-I mount my camera on a tripod (for stability) and use a close up lens with adaptor.

-I focus manually. (The autofocus on my digital camera operates poorly on close-ups.)

-I set the f-stop to 8.0 (If your camera permits, 11 or 16 would be better.)

-I set the shutter speed to 1/200.

-I use a timed-delay shutter.

Then I repeat with shutter speeds of 1/150, 1/100, 1/50. (Its easier to take 4 or 5 shots now and select the best later when viewing the results.) With experience you will get a feeling for the exposure time and will be able to take fewer shots to bracket the optimum.

[TitanFlies 0]

Since parts of the cork appear sharp I suspect:

1) You are using autofocus, and

2) Your depth of field is too small.

If you want your fly to appear sharp, you need to focus on it. Use manual focus, if your camera permits.

To increase the depth of field, manually increase the aperature number to its highest setting (8.0 in most digital cameras.) The higher the aperature number, the longer the exposure required. So you will also need to change the shutter speed.

This is what I do:

-Use as much light as possible (I place one floodlight above and one below, as close as possible.)

-I mount my camera on a tripod (for stability) and use a close up lens with adaptor.

-I focus manually. (The autofocus on my digital camera operates poorly on close-ups.)

-I set the f-stop to 8.0 (If your camera permits, 11 or 16 would be better.)

-I set the shutter speed to 1/200.

-I use a timed-delay shutter.

Then I repeat with shutter speeds of 1/150, 1/100, 1/50. (Its easier to take 4 or 5 shots now and select the best later when viewing the results.) With experience you will get a feeling for the exposure time and will be able to take fewer shots to bracket the optimum.

What do you mean aperature number?

 

Anyways, this is the camera I'm using.

 

http://store.kodak.com/store/ekconsus/en_U...uctID.145089900

[blakejd 0]

Ok so give this a shot I think it will help

Your camera specs say you can adjust the ISO manually. Grab your manual and set ISO to 100 or 200. This is your film speed Higher numbers such as 800 will give a grainy appearance much like your photo. I do not think you can manually adjust your aperature so don't worry about that. You can however set your camera to Macro which will give you a larger aperature and will help. However you may not be able to use macro and manual ISO at the same time so first try adjusting to manual ISO. Hope that makes sense. One problem with shooting at a low ISO indoors is that you will need lots of light. If the picture comes out too dark bring in more light to adjust. Make sure you use a tripod or a very stable base. Also adjust to centerweight metering. Give that a shot and post up and pic. Hope that helps.

[rockworm 0]

Aperature refers to the opening through which light passes. A large openning (a small f-stop number) lets lots of light through the lens. This is useful for low light conditions. The trade-off is a very small field of focus. A small openning (a larger f-stop number) gives a deeper field of focus, but requires more intense light and/or a longer exposure time.

 

From what I can see from the above link your Kodak Easyshare appears to have a fixed aperature size (much like the old Brownie and Instamatics.)

[TitanFlies 0]

Ok so give this a shot I think it will help

Your camera specs say you can adjust the ISO manually. Grab your manual and set ISO to 100 or 200. This is your film speed Higher numbers such as 800 will give a grainy appearance much like your photo. I do not think you can manually adjust your aperature so don't worry about that. You can however set your camera to Macro which will give you a larger aperature and will help. However you may not be able to use macro and manual ISO at the same time so first try adjusting to manual ISO. Hope that makes sense. One problem with shooting at a low ISO indoors is that you will need lots of light. If the picture comes out too dark bring in more light to adjust. Make sure you use a tripod or a very stable base. Also adjust to centerweight metering. Give that a shot and post up and pic. Hope that helps.

Thanks! The picture shown was with 200 ISO... maybe I just didnt have enough light...

[blakejd 0]

One other thought. The digital zoom found on most point and shoot cameras such as yours can greatly deteriorate a photo. If your using the digital zoom you will be better off not and simply cropping and blowing up the photo in a digital editing program such as photoshop or one of the free ones you can download online.