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Copic Airbrush Addicts - Add your techniques here!

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Folks:

 

I thought it would be good to start a thread to collect various Copic Airbrush system techniques. So let me start!

 

PREPARING POPPER BODIES WITH A PEARLESCENT UNDERBODY

I prefer that glittery scale effect on my poppers...I think it looks more realistic and certainly adds "bin appeal". Here's how I prepare all my popper bodies, whether I carve them myself out of balsa or basswood or buy preformed bodies.

 

STEP 1: sand the body smooth with 200+ grit sandpaper. Fit and glue hook in place with a small amount of epoxy.

STEP 2: apply a generous coat of clear LOON OUTDOORS Hard Head Pearlescent (your choice, phosphorescent, white, blue, or green). Let dry overnight.

STEP 3: paint the popper body (I use Copic Airbrushing), but hand painting is an option too. Let dry at least 4 hours at room temp or outside if a nice day.

STEP 4: apply 3D eyes or hand-paint eyes, your choice. I like the 3D eyes personally.

STEP 5: apply 5-10 minute epoxy to the entire popper body. Don't make it too thick, just a thin shiny coat is all that's needed. Dry overnight to non-tacky hardness.

 

You'll notice that it really doesn't matter what color the LOON OUTDOORS Hard Head Pearlescent you use. Once you overspray with the Copic markers, it takes the color of the marker, not the pearlescence. And a neat effect is noticed when you apply the epoxy coat - it magnifies the scaling pearlescent effect, making the poppers quite beautiful, almost art-like.

 

You'll also notice that I have lateral and vertical patterns on my poppers. I use a variety of templates to mask out the Copic spray when I apply the color. I use wedding mesh to create scaling, combs to create stripes and barring and a variety of custom-cut cardboard templates for other unique fishy patterns. Really, your creativity is unlimited when you use templates with the Copic marker system.

 

I've attached a few pictures of the poppers I make using these techniques. I've also done a few keychains for folks, by request, so I've attached pictures of those keychains too - those are more time-consuming and artistic.

 

So, what's your copic marker technique(s)?

 

Steve Schweitzer

 

PS - when I have time, I'll take some photos of the large streamers I am painting with Copic markers.

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Steve, very nice work. I have been playing with Copic for a few months now and I do exactly what you do. Combs and mesh. I just can't seem to get the same darkness on the scales as you. Maybe it is the pressure of my compressor. It is good up to 45 psi. I use foam and I pre coat it is Delta Dreamcoat sealant first. It is a great product and is a lot cheaper that loon.I have some photos in the foam postings. I see you must use epoxy to finish the fly and lure off. I am just coating mine with a mixture I came up with due to the fact I want a softer texture and epoxy cracks on foam after a while. What epoxy do you use? Thanks Foamer

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Hey Foamer:

 

a couple of thoughts...

 

To get darker scales: I spray a light undercoat color (chartreuse for example) over the entire popper except for the bottom, then apply mesh over the body. Then spray a darker color rather thinly to obtain the scaling effect. I spray heavier on top and lightly on the sides to get the darker top effect that is seen on most minnows, etc. I then take a neutral grey color marker and spray the sides lightly one more time to accentuate the scaling with out adding too much dark color. Lightly is the word here. Thin coats, many of them, are better than one coat.

 

Epoxy over foam: I agree, I don't put epoxy over foam. My popper bodies are all made of basswood, balsa or mold-injected urethanes, such as what Wapsi's Perfect Poppers are made from. I use Loctite 5min epoxy. A little more expensive, but well worth the cost in terms of clarity, durability, etc. You can use rod building epoxy too, but that is quite runny and sets too slow for my liking. Of course, I use a drying wheel for all my popper work.

 

s.

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Good looking work there. I use a badger air brush but similar techniques. I make the bodies from wood, I don't sand them quite so smooth (150 grit), I start the painting process by brushing on a coat of gesso. If I want a smoother finish I will sand the gesso with some 220 grit; the rest of the steps are pretty much the same I use various finishes depending on the desired effect Delta ceramcoat gloss varnish, softex or shhn. This is a batch I did recently. base was pearlized silver, then a light coat of fluorescent orange on the sides, then did the top half with purple, then spraying through the wedding mesh did the top half with pearlized blue then without removing the mesh sprayed the very top part of the back lightly with black. after it dries then did the eyes. I am interested in what kind of epoxy folks use particularly does anyone use the pour on finish that says equivalent to like 50 coats of varnish? I want to try some epoxy but not sure what to buy.

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Hey Foamer:

 

a couple of thoughts...

 

To get darker scales: I spray a light undercoat color (chartreuse for example) over the entire popper except for the bottom, then apply mesh over the body. Then spray a darker color rather thinly to obtain the scaling effect. I spray heavier on top and lightly on the sides to get the darker top effect that is seen on most minnows, etc. I then take a neutral grey color marker and spray the sides lightly one more time to accentuate the scaling with out adding too much dark color. Lightly is the word here. Thin coats, many of them, are better than one coat.

 

Epoxy over foam: I agree, I don't put epoxy over foam. My popper bodies are all made of basswood, balsa or mold-injected urethanes, such as what Wapsi's Perfect Poppers are made from. I use Loctite 5min epoxy. A little more expensive, but well worth the cost in terms of clarity, durability, etc. You can use rod building epoxy too, but that is quite runny and sets too slow for my liking. Of course, I use a drying wheel for all my popper work.

 

s.

Steve, Thanks for the advise, I will try that today. I shape all my foam by hand and I just want to get a better finish than what I get now. Thanks a ton. Foamer

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I'm having trouble with the patterns on the poppers to resemble scales. I have the copic pattern set but whenever I use it on a popper it either smears or is not dark enough. Any Tips?

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Confession of a Copic Addict,

 

There isn't much new to add about the Copic Airbrush system other than "You’re stopping too soon". Yes, it can do flat surfaces like poppers but why stop there?

 

I do a few Deer hair bugs and I use my Copic system to paint/color fur and feathers. Here are a couple of eye candy flies I tied for introducing youngsters to fly tying. See attached pictures.

 

View more pictures on Facebook.com Find: Joe Wedum

Or send me questions @ [email protected]

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I'm having trouble with the patterns on the poppers to resemble scales. I have the copic pattern set but whenever I use it on a popper it either smears or is not dark enough. Any Tips?

When you spray the number one thing to make sure of is "No over or under spray"!

A tight dry mask will help prevent almost all of this! My guess is you’re using some type of small hole netting to get your scale look. Try wrapping the popper tightly and then use a clothes pin or two to hold the netting tightly on your popper. Also this allows both hands to be free for the spraying.

 

Take a look at what I posted today. If I can put scales on feathers and fur you can put scales on your poppers.

 

If you have more questions send them to: [email protected]

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For you who have used Copic air system, how does the ink act if it is not covered in some type of epoxy / ccg / loon uv top coat? I'm interested more in the applications for feathers, not so much popper bodies or anything that would be covered with a top coat.

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