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josephcsylvia

large fly guy trying my hand at nymphs need critique!

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Thank you Poopdeck. I agree that perfect proportion isn't going to stop a fish from eating it, from what I understand though it matters more in dry flies so the sit right on the water. I will probably toss most of my small flies at sunfish and specs and they definitely wont care!

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Hi Joe with thread ...if you are having problems with it breaking or building up too quick I suggest Nano silk 12/0 from semperfli

you can break hooks with it before it will break.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsBrAM6ZjS4

Its awesome stuff and really helps when tying tiny flies.

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Yes behind the eye and in whip finishing 140 builds like crazy. What happens is you get the look you like and then it's wrecked with the whip finish, it over builds and it over spreads both on the small hooks.. Least that's my experience. That also is one reason I like Danvill 6/0 on my small flies, it actually builds in the whip finish less than 70 denier UTC. The 70 UTC builds some but it spreads even more. On a size 18 or smaller that is noticeable in the head. I used to use 8/0 Danville for midges, I'm out of it. The Danville frays and breaks much easier than either UTC or UNI, in my experience though.. In no way is Danville a superior product, I just live with it's short falls and would never use it for deer hair wraps or spinning deer hair. And if you are trying to avoid broken thread then don't buy the Danville thread is my suggestion.

 

Here is a link where they stock Semperfli 12/0 nano in the states: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/semperfli-nano-silk-thread-12-0

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Ok guys heres todays ties, a elk hair caddis trying not to crowd the eye and to tent the wing a little more like silver suggested,

 

a peacock herl caddis

 

another attempt at the 20 incher on a longer hook. On this one I feel like i should have started the peacock slightly further back which would make the tail shorter. critiques for today?

 

 

Those are good ties. I tie more 22's than 12's, and I'd be happy with yours. OTOH, my big streamers are a joke.

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I use 12/0 thread on anything smaller than #20. Where we fish in Driftless Area in Wisconsion sometimes we see some tiny little things we call #50 dandruff.

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Thank you Bruce. Rstaight, other than practice is we have some retention ponds here on the sides of the road that hold some good size bass in the 5lb range and they wont touch a baitfish pattern the live on insects. Although im sure if I through a mouse out that would be a different story

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Im surprised no one mention Gel spun. I been using it on my smaller flys.(18>) It can have its issues, ( God help you if it gets tangled beneath itself) but as far as thread build -up, it tends to be near nothing-ness compared to the other threads out there.

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Im surprised no one mention Gel spun. I been using it on my smaller flys.(18>) It can have its issues, ( God help you if it gets tangled beneath itself) but as far as thread build -up, it tends to be near nothing-ness compared to the other threads out there.

Never heard of it.

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Im surprised no one mention Gel spun. I been using it on my smaller flys.(18>) It can have its issues, ( God help you if it gets tangled beneath itself) but as far as thread build -up, it tends to be near nothing-ness compared to the other threads out there.

Never heard of it.

 

Usually, Gel Spun is mentioned in the deer hair tying threads because it's strong enough to flare the hair without breaking, even in small diameter threads.

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Im surprised no one mention Gel spun. I been using it on my smaller flys.(18>) It can have its issues, ( God help you if it gets tangled beneath itself) but as far as thread build -up, it tends to be near nothing-ness compared to the other threads out there.

Never heard of it.

 

Usually, Gel Spun is mentioned in the deer hair tying threads because it's strong enough to flare the hair without breaking, even in small diameter threads.

 

Well I got up today and learned something new ! Awesome.

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Thank you for all the comments. I think my saltwater tying experience is to blame for the long tail and legs. Seeing the one flytire posted helps. I used a phesant feather for the legs as I didn't have partridge. I need to pick up a partridge skin I see it used quite frequently.

I'm not great with the smaller ties either mate. But what I have found is that going down to these trouty sizes occasionally really helps my saltwater tying.

 

for what it's worth, that first fly you tied is pretty good. Don't be afraid to keep it and try it for some gills or similar.

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My two cents...

 

I came up tying saltwater streamers. When I started learning how to tie freshwater stuff, I was getting very frustrated. I am pretty much self-taught, and also gracious of the guys with all the tying vids on youtube.

 

Without reading all of the previous comments, I spent a lot of time with the cheapest hooks I could find, a few pheasant feathers, and some cheap dubbing. I tied only pheasant tails, and hare's ears. To start, no wire, no wing case, no legs. Just the abdomen and the thorax. The are super quick to tie, and once I got proficient, and consistent with the shape and proportions, I added a step, then another, etc.

 

Someone here mentioned that most flies are designed to catch OUR eyes, and perhaps not the fish! I strongly agree with that! Those simple nymphs I tied for years with only an abdomen and thoarx....it's really all you need! They work just fine!

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I'm pretty sure trout, unlike us humans, are totally and completely unaware of just how long a mayfly's legs, abdomen, and tail are. Very good critiques but that fly will catch fish just as well as a perfect one. I went from saltwater teaser and bucktail tying to trout flies. I did and sometimes still tend to put to much material on. I found that close is not only good for horseshoes and hand grenades but also flies. Enjoy your small fly tying

 

You are correct; but, at least for me, I think that is beside the point.

 

My view is that if one is going to tie a fly with legs, abdomen, and tail; one should tie them correctly. I think one needs to ask oneself why we tie flies. For most of us, it is not to save money. I think most long time fly tiers have spent more money on materials, tools, and time to more than pay for all the flies we would ever use. Most of us tie flies because it is a skill we want to master. So if that is why you tie flies, the flies you tie should be the best you can tie, AND you should not be satisfied with legs, abdomen, and tails that are out of proportion.

 

As a beginner, the flies will not be perfect. But if my flies didn't improve, I would wonder why I am tying flies in the first place.

 

Charlie Craven makes this very point in his recent podcast, and he talks about the many little things that have to be done correctly to tie a fly.

 

http://www.itinerantangler.com/blog/podcasts/2016/01/11/mastering-the-art-with-charlie-craven/

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