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Randi

Sally hanson

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I'll have a bottle of any head cement for years, a lot of my flies I use no head cement on. Actually most of my summer tying I use non because I'm going to go fish them right off the bench and often just wax the thread for the whip. All my dry flies and midges get no head cement, they don't require it. Streamers i may or may not use it on. Besides, The fly can sit for three days and still smell like the Sally's too, the stuff stinks ! Winter I might bother. Each time you open that bottle you lose some solvent period. Decades ago I used Sally's and moved away from it actually and in the last couple of years have come back, mostly because I used it to finish wraps on a new fly rod blank I was building ( don't own a power dryer for epoxy). Anyway, 7 coats on the wraps and I had to thin it, it wasn't flowing out perfectly right at about the 4th coat but by 7 it was done flowing in any reasonable way. 7 coats is less than half the bottle used on a 9 ft fly rod in two days incidentally and yes I closed the bottle on every application.. There is no need to throw out a half a bottle of product, that's silly, just re thin it because it's still just lacquer in there. Throw it out for a nickles worth of thinner a tleast to me doesn't make sense..

 

Where I really like Sally's is on my floss and ribbed streamer bodies and in biot wrapped bodies..

 

Incidentally Rumpf head cement doesn't smell like Sally's and lingers far less as well ( the odor will be gone in an hour or two vs Sally's in days). I liken the difference in smell to that of acrylic lacquer vs nitrocellulose, far less pungent an odor and it's in the solvents. Acetone smells like Sally's FWIW. And also Nitro lacquer is more pliable than acrylic, again FWIW.

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Thanks for the thinner info, Silvercreek, I'll be on the lookout for some.

 

I have slowly gotten away from using SHAN over the past few years because it was more viscous than I'd like, even right out of a fresh bottle. I tried acetone, but it "curdled" the first bottle I tried it in, so I stopped using it. Hopefully this stuff will work better, as I have two bottles that are about 1/3 full that have just thickened up over time to the point that they're nearly unusable.

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Any beauty salon supply store should have the right thinner, Cold. Around here that would be the Sally Beauty Supply chain of stores ( may or may not be related to the Sally Hanson line, I wouldn't know that and it doesn't matter anyway). Even some well stocked beauty departments in other stores might have it.

 

Amazon has it too but it's not on Prime and shipping cost makes it not worth while.

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I'll have to check Wal-Mart...I don't even know if we have a beauty supply store in my area.

 

Other than buying some SHAN, the extent of my time in the beauty department is limited to face scrub (regular soap give me a sunburn-like reaction on my face) and a trip a few years ago for some Halloween costume supplies!

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Since we are on the topic of head cements, I was able to find the ingredient list for "Hard as Hull" head cement. "Hard as Hull" is manufactured by Lacquerite, Inc. Lacquerite is a major manufaturer of nail polish.

https://www.facebook.com/Lacquerite/

 

The ingredients of Hard as Hull are Ethyl Acetate, N-butyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Nitrocellulose, N-butyl Alcohol, and Camphor. Sound familiar? Slightly different order of ingredients compared to Sally Hansens with a bit of Camphor. Nail polishes contain camphor as a plasticizer.

Beauty Secrets Nail Polish Thinner is a good match for Hard as Hull head cement. The reason I recommend nail polish thinner is that it contains very same chemicals as nail polish. Since nail salon workers are exposed to the vapors for decades, the thinners use very safe chemicals. Read up on Ethyl Acetate and Butyl Acetate. Both are found naturally in foods and Butyl Acetate ( N-Butly Acetate) is even used as a food flavoring.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_acetate

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butyl_acetate

 

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The good thing about nail polish remover is it's mostly acetone, like lacquer thinner, and it comes in small, convenient bottles. Which makes sense if you're using SHAN, which is fingernail polish. And it's cheap. For Goop if you use that, Toluene which you can get at a hardware store.

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Acetone speeds up the dry time slightly in SHAN FWIW. But as I said in another post my wife keeps a big bottle of acetone nail polish remover by her computer. And incidentally, she thins her nail polishes with it, be that colors or clear top coat. She uses a different top coat than SHAN but it's still lacquer ( bigger round bottle that won't tip over so easy, it would without doubt work just fine as head cement). Let me go look at the brand : Beauty Secrets. Her nails come out amazingly smooth and shiny, I can tell you that much.

 

My daughter is in the Nail care business, as well as hair and color and skin care, she can get me any product I want including gels and UV cures. But I don't bug her about it, I just go to CVS.

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Head cement? No, SHAN isn't... But then I don't consider any of the traditional "head cements" as glue or anything that will hold your fly together (maybe that's because as a saltwater tyer I'm working with larger flies..). Here's the routine I follow -every thread head gets a tiny drop of super glue (Krazy Glue in the standard applicator tube) and is allowed to dry. If I want a nicely finished head then it's a light coat of Sally Hansen's on top. For flies with eyes painted on the head it's super glue first, then each step to paint the eyes -then after they're thoroughly dried I use FlexCoat (a rodbuilder's finish) for the final clear coat... Works like a charm and always draws favorable comment from everyone that sees or uses the finished product.

 

Here's a trick I came up with years ago for Sally Hansen's (and any similar product). I use the bottle as it comes until it begins to thicken. Instead of going to a thinner (none of the thinners I've come up with was ever satisfactory...) I simply buy a second bottle and add half of it to the old bottle, quickly re-sealing the new bottle so that it stays new... A hard shake of the old bottle with the new finish added and you're ready to go. A few months later when the old bottle begin to thicken again I add the remaining new bottle and we're off to the races. Hope this helps

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