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Baron

Trying for proportion

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I spent the last two nights trying to get these right. Earlier ones from months ago had big huge heads and looked like Sasquatch fry. I've been trying to minimize the head for a shorter taper and am more careful to use less materials.  I'd really appreciate some critique, don't make me cry, but if you would please give me some pointers as you see it. My goal is to tie these down to size 12 for summer panfish. These are all size 6 streamer, I believe. The second image is a size 6 cricket (long shank) and the materials are craft fur which moves with grace. They have been pretty effective on Pickerel, Perch and Crappy lately.  

IMG_4925.jpeg

#6 Cricket w:Kraft fur.jpeg

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It look like your eyes are not back as far as Bob Clouser suggests.  He puts the eyes at the 1/3 point so the fly has less of a jigging action and more of what he describes as a "fluttering" action when it sinks rather than a jigging action.

As for shorting the taper on the head - good goal.  However, that will leave an obvious gap between the end of the wraps and the eyes but that's not a bad thing.  Clouser filled the gap with Epoxy for saltwater fishing to keep the teeth from tearing up the fly. For fresh water I just leave the gap on mine.

I couldn't tell if you're using bead-chain for eyes but when I tie small flies and I don't want them to SPLASH when they hit the water I use small bead-chain that I get from a Hardware store. If you're not worried about splash the small weighted eyes are fine.

Hope that helps some. Here's a picture from Bob Clouser's book "Clouser's Flies" I hope you'll be able to read it.

Edited to add that the hair wraps binding down the hair behind the eyes bind the hair all the way to the hook point.

clouser.jpg

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Yes I could read it and I thank you. In the photo below the eyes have been readjusted to more accurately 1/3 of the way. lifting the green bucktail as it was secured would perhaps have kept it from getting so close to the eyes. Does it look more proportionate to Mr. Clouser's Fly?Too much time was spent looking at other peoples versions on the internet rather than Bob's, it threw me off. The eyes are very small Copper Dumbells, helpful for open water, but they will be switched to chain eyes for summer weed beds. 

It would seem that I need to get his book. 

Epoxy is rarely used in this household except for boat building.  We are a Sally Hansen family 😉

IMG_4947.jpeg

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For another option check out Fly Anglers OnLine, Your Complete Internet Flyfishing Resource.  In the search type "deep minnow clones" and check out the first listing that shows Bob Clousers pattern using a popper hook.  These fish just as well and are an easier tie and the popper hooks are cheaper!

Kim

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Yes thanks. Mom used to say that I'm looking but I don't see. 50 yrs later she is still correct. I have watched that video while sitting at the vise and still don't quite have it down. Like a mystery movie I realize more every time I watch it. 

Kim thanks for the read. That is interesting using a popper hook. 

I did finally get the head right, in my opinion

IMG_4966.jpeg

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Thanks all. Now I'll keep cranking the out so it sticks. And I thought that only the old-timey historic flies were hard to tie. Turns out that one must pay attention to even microscopic nuances. Thanks again. 

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Here’s another suggestion that will greatly improve any tyer’s consistency and aid in getting those proportions exactly, time after time (as well as the colors of each material).

Simply, look over the flies you’ve tied of that one pattern -and save the best one as a “Master pattern”.  Then each time you come back to that pattern you’ll have a standard to strive for.  T will also speed up your efforts if you ever get into production tying.

I actually have masters I saved from back in the eighties to ensure that all these years later I can reproduce a pattern to a close standard when desired...

Over time and use, some patterns will evolve- and that’s when I shift to a new master, replacing the original if desired.

From hard experience I can recall times when I generated a new pattern - then when it really produced only having its shredded remains, then trying to duplicate it without success... Very frustrating.

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Rotaryflytyingdotcom,

When I started I also had trouble with proportion and consistency. To solve that, I used a pair of dividers.  For the Clouser Deep Minnow, set the width to where the eyes will be.  You can check against the hook shank, making sure you are set to 1/3 the shank.  Put one point in the hook eye and start your thread base for the dumb bell eyes at the other point and you will always be correct and consistent.  I still use them from time to time to make sure the proportions for other materials such as tails are what they should be.

If you use the ones with the screw wheel or arc and jam wheel, you are assured of consistent measurements.

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Once I have the material (usually bucktail) tied in forward of the eyes with a few wraps, I pull it straight away from the shank and cut parallel to the shank.  This tapers the material when you wrap it down fully.  Makes the head much easier to taper perfectly.

 

Hope this helps.

 

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I also just noticed I addressed my post to the wrong person.  Sorry Rotary, I should have addressed to Baron who started this thread.  Doh!

 

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Rick,

They represent twice the danger of a bodkin!  Just don't drop them on hardwood floors or your foot! :)

 

 

 

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