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JackG

Ugh Seaducer

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ok i havent tried tying a seaducer yet because my "saddle hackle" looks nothing close to what is on this fly, to me this saddle hackle has the flex of marabou. is this a different kind of "saddle hackle," is it soft saddle hackle?

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Generally on that type of fly, you want to use long and fairly wide and webby saddle hackle.

 

As I am not sure what type of saddle hackle you have, so it is hard for me to make a decision about it.

 

If it is a general purpose saddle hackle then it is probably more on the dry fly type, even if it is a #3 but they will work. Just pick out the softest and most webby of the hackles and tie them in.

 

The tail should extend twice the length of the hook shank. You can go shorter if you want but 2 times is a good rule of thumb.

 

I buy all of my saddle hackles strung except for grizzly. I buy them on the skin because I cannot find them strung.

 

What used to be considered rejects or junk hackle is now highly sought by warm water and saltwater fly tyers. These saddles were long, wide, webby and had very soft stems. They did not work well for a lot of the cold water applications so they were considered rejects. At one time you could buy them for next to nothing.

 

Now, that is a different story. Some of the breeders are coming out with some decent necks and saddles for saltwater because the market is there.

 

This is just my opinion but buy the cheapest saddles you can get if you are ONLY tying saltwater flies as the feathers will not be much good for anything else except bass flies and the like.

 

I have seen some patches described as Deceiver patches and those are pretty decent. I still buy mine strung though. I do not tie a lot of small flies (size 6 and under) so strung works very well for me.

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You should try a rooster saddle hackle, or rooster neck hackle and look at them before you buy, I mean open the pack and look at the feathers. I have gotten stung by not looking that close. Some of these things get up there price.

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