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nyFLYguy05

Rattle Baitfish Flies

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Dude, you are a tying machine, great looking flies. Looks like you have taken well to the goo, it's great stuff.

 

Question for you, are you placing the rattle on top of the hook shank? If so, that can cause the fly to ride upside down due to being top heavy... I usually tie the rattle to the top of the shank when I want the hook point up. When I need point down on a baitfish pattern I tie the rattle on to a tail off the back of the hook, also makes for a slimmer head.

 

Tight lines...dave

 

One way to skin the cat....

 

IMG_0465.jpg IMG_0466.jpg

 

I normally tie the open end off, however, the piece of tube was a little short... will still work.

IMG_0467.jpg

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Dave, I'm not sure about the glass rattles that you are using as the glass has some weight but the plastic rattles that I use in my Rattle Rouser pattern actually do not have enough weight to counteract the air in the rattle chamber. In fact, on my Rattle Rouser, even with the bucktail wing tied on the underside of the hook, it has a tendency to turn when stripped fast. To ensure it rides properly, I have to add a size #4 - BB lead shot in side the tubing in front of the rattle to balast it.

 

The way your're showing the mylar off the back is a good way for point down streamers, I use that on several flies especially large wooly buggars. On the ones I do like that, I tie off the mylar and fray the ends, insert the rattle and then tie off the loose end to the front. You can even loop a piece of mono to the rattle prior to inserting and tie off the mylar on that end to leaving a small loop of mono coming out of the mylar rattle chamber to make an articulated rattle chamber. I'd try to avoid gluing the mylar to the hook at the rear as it may break off.

 

Kirk

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Thanks for the comments - this is how I tie my "rattle candies" - the hook point rides down, not up like a clouser would.

 

 

- Cover shank with flash, holographic braid, etc

 

- Tie in flash at hook bend

 

- Reverse tie in supreme or ultra hair, leaving the cut end towards the eyes of the hook

 

- Tie in rattle a tiny bit back from the hook eye (this will form head and body)

 

- Take your synthetic hair and fold over rattle - now the body starts to come together

 

-Wrap thread only around rattle and synthetic hair

 

- Whip finish on the rattle, add eyes, and add clear cure goo to cover the rattle and create the body - in the water these look sweet so far!

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Thanks for the comments - this is how I tie my "rattle candies" - the hook point rides down, not up like a clouser would.

 

 

- Cover shank with flash, holographic braid, etc

 

- Tie in flash at hook bend

 

- Reverse tie in supreme or ultra hair, leaving the cut end towards the eyes of the hook

 

- Tie in rattle a tiny bit back from the hook eye (this will form head and body)

 

- Take your synthetic hair and fold over rattle - now the body starts to come together

 

-Wrap thread only around rattle and synthetic hair

 

- Whip finish on the rattle, add eyes, and add clear cure goo to cover the rattle and create the body - in the water these look sweet so far!

 

That'll work, looks good too. That CCG should make a nicer non-yellowing surf candy, plus that 5-minute would get soft after a while in the water.

 

Kirk

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Hey Kirk, thanks for the tip, never thought about putting mono inside the mylar... much more flexable, will give it a try.

 

I tie your Rattle Rouser on a tube in orange and black with gold holographic tubing, has accounted for some fat sow trout in St Joe Bay. Awesome fish food, added CCG to the tube to extend the life on the rattle, do plastic rattles last longer...How does the sound compair with glass?

 

NY, thanks for posting the video hadn't seen this one, Capt Wirt's site has alot of great SBS...

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Dave, just thought I'd throw up a pic of what I was talking about, sounds like you figure what I'm talking about but just in case...Also, that braided mono tubing is some pretty tough stuff and allows you to saturate the rattle to the tubing with CA glue for added durability prior to your clear coating. It is a little tougher to tie with and doesn't have the nice flashy frayed ends of the mylar but I've come to like it a lot for the Rattle Rouser.

 

Kirk

 

DSC_0350-1.jpg

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NP Panama! Thanks for the comments and advice. Whatever I can do to help anyone, you guys always help me out!

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