arkle

Hey Mike,

Great to see you're back and coming out in force. As ever, all of the flies are showing your dedication to the art and I'm sure that everyone is looking forward to seeing further ideas and developments from deepest Virginia. That's not just for "realistics" either, you tie some stunning trout and salmon patterns as well.

John

As you don't have a local flyshop perhaps these other options are worth consideration,

1.Get some fly tying related magazines,

2. Try and go to at least one flyfair.

3. Start tying your chosen pattern on say a size 8 for a wooly bugger then when youve tied at least six, go down a size and repeat until you're happy with them and repeat again till you end up with some tidy looking and durable 14s. Then go onto a slightly more complex pattern and do the same, but with say 5 of each as you get more confident in handling materials, using techniques etc. try and keep to the same style of hook for each pattern though to help with consistancy.

4. Join at least one local club if possible, that has members that are able to help you and act as mentors.

Hope thats of help.

John

I don't know if this is going to be of any help for you, but have you tried looking in local aquarists stores. A few years ago I managed to pick up some very interesting stones there. Also for driftwood, cork bark and the like take a look in either larger craft stores or gardencentres that have sections that do things for dried flower arrangements. Very best of luck, John

There are a couple of other posts of this subject on page 3 of this forum you might fid worthwhile. The first is "any colour you want, swiss straw" followed by "Raffene, Where do I find it"

When moistening the material, do you use tap water or saliva ? the latter is obviously a bit more local and its temprature may also help. Providing you don't over do it of course. It is also possible to under do it as well so keep trying.

John

If the above fails, also try wedding supply places, fabric markets, Indian sari makers and of course John Betts of Z-Lon and micro fibbets fame. John

It may be less likely to separate if you moistened it just prior to tying it in, with a natural material it is very dependant on when it was harvested and many other factors. With the man made stuff it's totally different, but the same tecnique would apply. You may have to be a bit more "selective" with strand choice with the natural one. The man made one is thinner and much more consistant to work with although both have different characteristics which are advantageous for different styles of fly. Laquer choice may also need several trials to get right for each type of material and should only be applied after wrapping. John

Wow what a way to make an entrance Ezio, stunning. Thanks very much indeed for the post. I'm sure we all look forward to seeing much more from you. John

Is it natural raffia, i.e. the sort that is often sold in plant centres and the like or is it Raffene/Swiss straw the man made version that you are using? As tying and finishing techniques differ depending on which one you are using.

John

Have a look at www.furledleaders.co.uk and then get in contact with Jim Williams via the site, He's a brilliant chap and will fall over himself to help you. tell him that John Horsfall recommended you, that may even earn you some brownie points!

Best of luck

John

If you go to www.sexyloops.com then hit the second button saying "the board" that will take you to the forum, then go to fly tying, and you WILL see it, last post on that thread was on 26th March 07, by Mike Connor at 12.35 and it had 600 veiwings at 20.00 G.M.T. this evening. Hope that helps.

John

Din,

It looks like you see where I'm coming from and the difference in the flies is plain to see, very well done indeed.

I don't know what hook sizes you are using although I'd guess around a 10 or 12, as you get more confident with a pattern and thats any pattern then try and go down a size. When you can happily put 2 or 3 next to each other in descending sizes and not find signifigant differences in each you gain confidence in not only your ability to handle the materials but you are also confident in your technique as well. Then choose a slightly more complex pattern and start over again.

"Repetition is the spice of life" as the saying goes, just ask any pro tyer and they will agree, it's a bit like doing an apprenticeship but it's one that no-one will ever get close to learning it all as its for ever changing and evolving. Thats why you never stop learning and will probably never want to.

John

Thanks Joe, I've looked through loads of mags to try and find it but I must have loaned it out to someone. Just before I opened this page I googled john barr colardo fly and found at least 10 pages there. It might be worthwhile for Din to try and get hold of an original of each pattern that you want to tie, that way you will be able to see the fly how its inventor intends it to look, and then first of all try to match it then use your own and others ideas to modify it to suit your own waters. John

To make things a trifle easier for us to see, is it possible to use a contrasting background rather than one of a similar colour to the flies, your photo's are very good indeed and show the flies reasonably well. However it may pay to look at some of the others on the forum - say those by Graham on the realistics section to see what I mean, he also writes in the photgraphy section of this forum and his flies are well, not on this planet to say the least! John. Keep at it, we'll have trouble keeping up with you at this rate.

Will have to get back to you tommorow on that one, but beleive or not it's John................. I'll also get the issue number/publiction date. You could try googling it or looking through the Fly Fisherman website if you are in a hurry though, John

Whilst you're googling check out the name selene dumain, another Rangeley tier, she's brilliant

I think that you guy's may have the answer to why so many shops are closing about 18" in front of you. Over this side of the pond things are pretty similar with shops closing and the like. As founder and president of the local F.D.G. we try hard to attract new junior members (under 18s) we sponser them and really go out of our way to do everything we can for them. However they only stay with us for a short time and go off"to do exams" and other things, Consequently there is very little "new blood" coming into the sport.

Sure our membership is boayant and we have a 15% annual turnover and gain say 5/10% new members each year but they are almost all 40s+ and many of these are 60s+.

The tackle dealers advertise in magazines about the lack of things like after sales etc that you can't always get from certain auction sites. The cost of running an online shop is negligable compared to an actual one.

John

Hi there,

For probably the most complete article(s) you're ever likely to see concerning Hares fur and the like there is a furom run by Paul Arden over here in the U.K. called the board go to www.sexyloops.com and no that's not a wind up. Look for a thread by a Scottish guy, Mike Connor who has written and photgraphed pages about hares fur/ear also several other topics you may find useful. Hope that helps.

John

"By the inch it's a synch, by the yard it's damn hard, and by the mile its vile" is a saying that came from one of those lacklustre sales seminars that one was forced to attend so that ones employer could get their full tax allowance benefit. The saying is true as far as a lot of things go, but at the rate your'e progressing they may have to rewrite the next edition !

The easiest method for a dubbing loop I've found is with a ball bearing mounted twin wired device, it works best when the loop is locked with a turn of thread is made around the head of the loop before you return the thread away to the head where its temorarily half hitched/whip finished and cut away, only then do you feed the dubbing into the loop and spin as instructions supplied with it. It sounds cumbersome and difficult but after several goes you'll wonder why you haven't ever tried one before.

The "Copper John's " are showing great promise as well. if you can try and get hold of the original authors article from Fly Fisherman, he goes into minute and clear detail how to do every stage - its an excellent article to learn from, nothing is ommited. After all the guy's a pro-tyer and these flies are as near perfect as can be made - take a look at the other flies and boxes in the series as well, they are stunning! You're close and for a relative beginner, staggeringly good; I only wish I had been as good at your stage. Keep posting

John

Hi there, Far be it that someone from the U.K. should make observations on perhaps one of the most traditional U.S. patterns, however if it were me; I would aim to get a smaller head and marginally shorter body. That way your thorax is going to be less cramped and easier to dub into a proportional shape; i.e about 1/3 thicker than the thickest part of the body. I would also try and use a small dubbing loop, if you are able for the thorax, that would help give the shaggy teazed look you are after. I don't know what thread you are using but it might pay to try 8/0 or 12/0 on the 2 smallest sizes. Other than that brilliant - keep at it - you are going to get those trout seriously worried ! John. P.S. I hope that real "metal" tinsel your'e using as mylar often only lasts one fish.

There is a very similar pattern to this called a "Caperer" that is used a lot on our southern chalk streams like the Test, Itchen and Kennet. As far as I can see the only difference between the two is the choice of wing material, on the "C" its a dark chocolate brown rather than a black.

John

Hi, I was led to beleive , from Oliver Edwards that the feathers to use are Golden Pheasant centre and side tails, By pulling individual fibres slowly but steadily back towards the base of the quill you will after a bit of practice get the desired results.

John

Hi Graham,

There is little else I can add to whats already been said other than

"this guy must have come from another planet"

Keep up the good work and keep pushing the buttons

John

I think the pattern that was tied back in the early 1970s for use at Hanningfield Res. in Essex U.K. went as follows. Hook 8/12 l.s.d.e tied with red or orange d.r.f. floss. butt as floss, body gold or silver scotch tape ribbed with floss, wing , hot orange calf tail or squirrel. hackle dyed red/hot orange cock fibres. Later versions exchanged floss for tying thread- Danvilles 6/0 flour red. and siler/gold tinsel was also used instead of the tape. The name of the originator was I think Albert Whillock (?) who was an artist that drew inspiration for this fly whilst looking through a glass of scotch towards the glow of a coal fire.

John

Hi there,

Just a thought, but do use the tools that you are happiest/most comftable with - especially scissors, which as everybody else says and (I do) is to never put them down. What speed do you want to tie at ? There are women in Africa who tie 300+ a day. Davy Wooton ties, or at least used to a Whichams fancy (Winged) in 45secs. I've done the same but not for sustained periods i.e. hours on end. Repetition is the spice of life, so a little time and motion study can help i.e. what you need and what you don't.

John

My screenname is arkle, but usually I'm known as John.

To try and cut a long(ish) story short I have been tying flies for freshwater trout, salmon etc for around 40 of my 53 years.

During that time I've taught at adult evening classes, written articles and supplied (35mm) photo's for a number of magazines. I've tied on a semi-pro basis, given demonstrations, talks, lectures/slide shows.

Founded the local branch of The Fly Dressers Guild of which I am now (still) life pres. of some 27years later, I've sat on both local and international commitees. Over the history of our branch our members have won several major fly fishing competions and the guys have also won more prizes in national fly tying competitions than any other club in the U.K.

I look forward to not only learning from other members but also trying to help out as well.

Thanks for reading through this.

Regards

John