Nick Williams

The one I am looking at is selling for $80, and was bought two years ago from a distributor in Alaska. Down here in Oklahoma, USA we don't have many people trapping much other than bobcat and beaver, and people making garments is very hard to come by.

Any things to look for when purchasing a pelt for fly tying purposes?

Anyone ever purchased or have an arctic fox pelt they use for tying? I have a chance to buy a full pelt from Alaska, but I just wanted to check to see if there was anything I should look for. I've already checked all the regulations and I should be good to go. With as popular as Arctic fox fur is these days, and as expensive as it can be, I was excited at having the chance at a full pelt.

Any issues to look for?
What should I expect to pay?

Anyone tried to dye their own fox before?

I'd love some advice!!

I guess I should have clarified a little more. This is my current set up. It works; it's clean, organized, and was sufficient. Due to the tying I am doing now, I need more workspace, ie the desk is too small. So I plan on building a desk, already have the wife's approval, that will be almost the expanse of that wall. I'm going to get rid of that tall tower of drawers and get two more smaller ones. The kind of storage I am looking for is on desk storage that keeps the frequently used items (thread, hooks, beads, flash, etc) handy and close. I know you can buy storage containers that work in that capacity, but I don't buy flies so why would I buy the storage?

Thanks Rolf. I've been there, unfortunately I don't necessarily need to see whole benches. I'm looking specifically for the storage options and asking questions to those that post. Seeing pictures could work, but it takes the dialog out of the process.

Hey guys, planning on building a tying desk, but I'm looking into storage options on the desk. Things like flash storage, tool storage, spool storage, etc. Just curious what some of you are doing/using, picures would be awesome, and also, what have you tried that DIDN'T work. Currently I'm using tote drawer systems, and while it worked for a couple years I'm getting to the point where I need more storage/more organization.

Thanks!

Soon I'll be in the market for a new pair of wading boots to go with my stocking foot waders. Just curious as to what everyone uses and how they like what they have, and also to whether or not anyone has/uses a pair with the Boa lacing system and how well it holds up. Seems like a sweet idea, but at the same time seems less fail proof than normal waders. I haven't narrowed it down much yet as I'm just starting to look!

For those that are all worried about this already being discussed in detail, point me towards where I can read about it.

Any ever seen these? http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/70026822/

Real and soft wool, a whole bunch of it for $30. Anyone ever bought some for fly tying?? And any thoughts on dyeing it? I'm not familiar enough with the properties of dyeing or wool to know anything. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Good topic. This year I have a duck hunter supplying me with skins later this year. Mallards and woods are what he usually gets.

Is he giving you whole skins? Wings? Or just parts?

Curious of those that are duck hunters and tiers, how many of you actually keep and use feathers from the birds you shoot??

And a second question, and I tried to search this but didn't come up with much: Besides Mallard and Wood duck flank and CDC feathers, and maybe some biots off of a goose or two, are any others actually worth keeping? And are CDC feathers from one bird better than another? Haven't kept feathers before this year, just never needed to, but I am wanting to learn!

Thanks guys!

Hammer, what camera are you shooting those photos with?? Those are fantastic. And, I love that pattern by the way. I haven't watched the video yet, but are you using epoxy on the back? Or some other liquid?

Dry flies! Probably a combination of lesser hackles, small hooks, and patience, but I never like how they come out.

I haven't ever thought about the keel effect on scuds. I tie all mine with beads, no other weight. But that makes sense, I also like the scud bodies that are pre-shaped weights, but now they don't sound like such a good idea.

Welcome to the forum! I am in Owasso, OK. Not sure how many people on here are actually in OK though. Would be cool to find out though!

I make my own 3D eyes and use it to cure them fully before tying with them. I also use it to final cure flies, just toss them under the lamp when done zapping with the flashlight and move on to the next fly.

Do you have a SBS for making the 3D eyes? That sounds very intriguing, especially with how outrageously priced eyes are.

What material is that head made of? Looks pretty good for a first round! I bet it'll catch fish, looks like a saltwater pattern to me!

My username is pastornickwill. Though not many fly tying or fishing photos due to lack of time! I do enjoy getting to follow several of you guys though!

I did purchase this about 2 1/2 weeks ago and wanted to test it out on something different. So I chose a Kleenex. And yes, it works! I can dunk the whole tissue in a cup of water and pull it out dry. However, if I do it multiple times it will start to hold some water. My guess is because I didn't get it covered well. Which makes sense to me because you can't see where you have and have not sprayed on a Kleenex. I will see if I can post a video of it.

What knot do you normally from your flyline with a loop, to your leader? This line in paricular is 6wf.

Hey I have some flies that are either falling apart, look like crap or that I just want the hooks out of, so what are the best ways for getting the hooks clean?

Aside from using scissors, which I would rather avoid, are there other ways to clean them off?

The hook gap was just an example of a reason why some people have used a bigger sized hook for dries. Sorry, I should have worded that better.

So downsizing to a size 18 or 16 scud hook, as it was a size 20 scud hook, would do the job? Do I just make it shorter on the bigger hook?

I was out at my local river last week and was losing trout. After a few I realized that they were straightening out my hook. I was using a size 20 green Zebra Midge type fly, sort of my own creation, but they would just bend it out after a couple second of fighting. I did change flies several times so it wasn't just a bad hook as I had hoped.

So therein my question lies.. I have seen that people sometimes time the smaller dries and emergers on bigger size hooks so they will still have the hook gap. Is it possible to do that with nymphs and sorts? I will be back down to the river this week and wanted to explore that option just in case!

I was out at my local river last week and was losing trout. After a few I realized that they were straightening out my hook. I was using a size 20 green Zebra Midge type fly, sort of my own creation, but they would just bend it out after a couple second of fighting. I did change flies several times so it wasn't just a bad hook as I had hoped.

So therein my question lies.. I have seen that people sometimes time the smaller dries and emergers on bigger size hooks so they will still have the hook gap. Is it possible to do that with nymphs and sorts? I will be back down to the river this week and wanted to explore that option just in case!

How do you go about steaming them? Just over boiling water?