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Fly Tying

Hatchet Jack

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Posts posted by Hatchet Jack

  1. Just to be clear, I am not looking for breathables, nor stockfoot waders, just

    good bootfoot waders made of sturdy fabric. At $200 or less,

    I'm thinking a breathable wader won't be that great w.r.t. durability.


    Searching Google is fine, but I'm looking for people's suggestions from here

    that have had good luck with their waders & that are similar to what I'm looking for.


    (thanks for your above suggestions though)

  2. spiralspey - that's it, thanks for finding that!



    Which knot are you guys tying that is so much stronger.[?]

    Vic, I'm tying the Open Clinch Knot, not the Non Slip Loop Knot.

    If you compare the two knots in this drawing below, you'll see the differences:




    I'm using the Open Clinch Knot to tie in Jim Matson's Pulse Disc, and I discovered this knot's

    written description when I was researching the Non Slip Loop Knot..

  3. flytire, your provided link only shows drawings for the standard non-slip loop knot.

    I've spent over an hour searching to find a drawing of the Kreh/Harro/Byford knot.


    This knot's word description:

    "It is different. The Harro loop knot by-passes the overhand going straight to the twists

    around the standing line before passing through the overhand. One step is eliminated."


    Another description:

    1. overhand knot in leader
    2. pass tag through hook eye
    3. commence wrapping above the overhand knot (don't pass through it)
    4. return tag through overhand knot in the same direction as the line exits towards wraps.
    5. tighten by pulling on tag and mainline using your fingers to massage the knot toward fly.


    I have tied what I think is correct based on these word descriptions,

    but a clear drawing would also be helpful to verify I'm tying it correctly.


    So far, my version of this knot shows it beating the standard non-slip loop knot

    every time. I used 15 # test Maxima Chameleon and did the usual tug-of-war knot

    testing trick.



  4. The problem I've had with applicator bottles is that the needle clogs up rather quickly.

    With Sally Hansen's, I trim the fibres off the end of the brush in the cap, until there's about 2 - 3 remaining.

    One ends up with a fine 'applicator tip' and no cleaning hassle.

  5. If you could take a pic and show what your dealing with would probaly help alot.



    Also, I'm reading Elder's info as fibres being a total length of 7".

    Divided in half by the wire, that should be do-able.

    All the advice above and some practice can make a nice brush.


    I've found that there's a lot of 'waste' coming off on the brush during

    the intial wire twisting but thems the breaks.

  6. The other night I was up late browsing various fly tying sites

    and I found a rather striking dry fly. I thought I had bookmarked it,

    but alas, not to be. Don't even remember its name.


    It had a hair fibre tail, a turkey or goose biot abdomen, then some peacock

    herl, hackle, and perhaps upright wings of deer hair? I know, I've got the basics

    but would sure like to see the real deal again, thanks.


  7. ????? unsure.png


    Perhaps I'm not understanding the problem, but if you trim the MicroFibbets

    to length at the butt end, you won't lose the nice delicate taper.


    I tie them in with enough wraps just to position them, then I pull the butt ends

    forward to set my desired tail length, then trim off the butt end excess.


    I also try to keep hackle and tail proportions to the dry fly 'standard', as I think it was

    designed to help float the dry fly correctly on the water's surface.

  8. "...Those short thicker front Skagit tapers also call for bigger diameter guides than the advertised wt of the rod would suggest..."




    Steelie, before you build your Spey rod, some subjective as hell suggestions

    with respect to running guides:


    First, settle on what line system you're going to use - head, running, backing, etc.,

    then measure your widest loop-to-loop connection - use this dimension to choose guide sizes.


    I have found that a gap of roughly 1.5 mm (minimum) on each side of the widest loop-to-loop connection allows for good line clearance, like when using MOW tips and a big fat Skagit line.


    I went from ceramic single-foots, to Minima 4's, then finally went back to good old snake guides - these offered the best line flow and loop clearance. The loop-to-loop connections seemed to 'catch' on the other guides when fully retrieving the line, like a car wheel smacking dead on into a curb.


    And of course, go large diameter on the tiptop. Snake Brand as you probably know has a decent length on their tiptop tube, which I really like.


    Keep us posted on your progress, lots of us are eager to see what evolves!

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