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garetjax

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Posts posted by garetjax

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Save your money...

    Take a PAPER grocery bag (you'll have to ask otherwise you get plastic...).

    Cut it down to about 8" in height.

    Make 2 cuts down, about 2", in the corners on one wide side.

    This side is the rear. Fold outward from the end of one cut to the other. Fold the remaining 2" that is on the other 3 sides down INSIDE the bag. That makes the bag rigid.

     

    You now have a free standing bag with a 2" wide strip towards the rear, projecting rearwards.

     

    When clamping your vise to the table, insert the left side of the tab in the clamp, under the table top and above the bottom part of the clamp. Take a spring type clothes pin and clip the right side to the underside of the table top. Voila! You have a garbage collector placed under your vise. When it's full, throw it and make another.

    -E

    That sounds like a nifty idea! Do you think you can provide a picture of your creation? =)

     

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Although I haven't done it yet, I am going to contact Peak and see if I can purchase the plastic clamp like the bobbin holder comes out of. I use the bobbin holder a lot , but it would be nice to also have a small wire frame that holds a standard plastic grocery bag. This would be nice at tie-ins to keep trimmings off the carpet. Mike

    You might be intrested in this, Mike. It's not lsited on PEAK's site as of yet, but Kurt made mention that they had these in stock.

     

    Bobbin Cradle BOB-1

     

    IPB Image

    • Fits all 3/8” diameter riser shafts

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I was e-mailing Kurt the other day, and just got a reply from him concerning the various accessories available for the PRV-G2 vise not available on PEAK's main wesbite. If you guys are interested in any of these items, you can e-mail Kurt directly at [email protected]

     

    I will most likely be picking up the Accessory shaft.

     

     

    Anyway, here's what they are:

     

    Material Clip MTL-CLP

     

    IPB Image

    • Unique horizontal design SECURELY traps materials without damage

    • Attaches to standard ¼” shafts

    • Multiple clips can be used at one time

    • Includes two spring diameters to cover wide range of materials

     

     

     

    Hex Stacker™ HEX-1

     

    IPB Image

    • Hex body and base so neither piece will roll off your tying table

    • Light, easy to use tool

    • Non-Static design

     

     

    Bobbin Cradle BOB-1

     

    IPB Image

    • Fits all 3/8” diameter riser shafts

     

     

    Accessory Shaft SFT-S or SFT-L

     

    IPB Image

    • Precision stainless steel shafting

    • Comes in two lengths 3” –S or 4-3/8” –L

    • Compatible with Pedestal Base or Clamp

    • - L works great with the vise on a riser

    • - S works great with the standard vise

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Although I haven't done it yet, I am going to contact Peak and see if I can purchase the plastic clamp like the bobbin holder comes out of. I use the bobbin holder a lot , but it would be nice to also have a small wire frame that holds a standard plastic grocery bag. This would be nice at tie-ins to keep trimmings off the carpet. Mike

    I didn't even think of that! Great idea. =)

     

  8. Posted · Report reply

    The foam I would like to aquire is a more pliable, open cell type foam. What I am trying to accomplish is obtain the same foam that is on a foam beetle that I am using as a template to make my own foam beetle. I'll see if I can't post a photo of what ; MS talking about and see if that helps you guys any figure out what kind of foam it really is.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I am having a small problem tying black beetles using closed cell foam. The problem I am having is that I chose to use a bit of Holographic Flashabou Tying Material made by White River (Bass Pro Shop brand) for use on the underbody of the beetle. I am using the gold colored, item number 38-225-470-02 version of this material.

     

    I have selected a size 14 hook, and wrapped a thread base onto the shank. I then installed the foam, and tied one end down, which I then installed some black dubbing to give the beetle some girth. This is where I am starting to have problems. When trying to install the Flasabou, it keeps unravelling. I tied one end down at the rear where I tacked the foam down at, and reset my bobbin position to the hooks eye. I then wrapped a strand of Flashabou clockwise along the shank until I get to the hooks eye, where I am having a very difficult time in trying to hold it down with thread from my bobbin so it doesn't unravel.

     

    I want the Flashabou to be wrapped tightly against the dubbing, and I want no black of the dubbing to show through the tinsel. But every time I try to accomplish this, the tinsel moves about on the dubbing, sliding over the other coil of tinsel next to it. What am I doing wrong? What can I do to get rid of this problem?

     

    One thing to keep in mind is that the dubbing is tightly secured to the hook. There is no "fluffiness" to the dubbing. In other words, the dubbing does not give under the coiled tightness of the tinsel, therefore, it is not the dubbing that is causing so much slack in the tinsel when I wrap it around the hook.

     

    Can anyone help me with this? I am having a very tough time trying to keep the tinsel (Flashabou) coiled tight enough around the hook/dubbing so that the coils stay in place and do not slide around, as well as trying to figure out how to secure the end of the tinsel to the hook itself so it doesn't unravel.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I'd take a look at "Tying Dry Flies" and "Tying Nymphs", both by Randall Kaufmann. Step-by-steps for about 30 flies with very good photos, some history of the pattern, and a very goodpattern directory in the back.

    Also, "Flies fo Bass Panfish" by Dick Stewart and Farrow Allen. Book of patterns divided by type (Baitfish, nymphs, etc.) No step-by-steps, but good photos of the flies. You should be able to turn out any of these at the vice.

    Ironically, my brother-in-law has those same fly tying books by Randall Kaufmann that I am using right now. They are pretty good for the novice to use. I went ahead and checked out "Benchside Reference" that TroutBum linked as well as Dave Hughes' "Essential Trout Flies" that Hairstacker mentioned. I also looked at the various other books that were mentioned in this thread such as "The Art of Fly Tying" and "The Fly Tying Bible".

     

    I visited my local Borders bookstore and checked them all out (for a few hours). WOW! What great references! I immeadiately bought the "Essential Trout Flies" and "Benchside Reference" books once I got home on Amazon.com

     

    These books have quickly become almost a bible to me. And along with the Kaufmann series, I think I am ready to tackle just about any fly. =)

     

    Thanks again for the great references you guys!

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys.

     

    I am looking for a book that clearly details and provides color photos of different kinds of dry and wet flies. The book doesn't neccessarily need to go into detail about the basics of tying flies, rather just how to make a wide range of dry and wet flies in great detail, coupled with excellent color photos of the process and the finished product.

     

    Are there any books out there that you guys can reccomend that fits this bill? Like I said, I am not really needing a fly basics tying book, rather just a reference book on how to make various flies.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks guys. That's a nice bird dog you have there finhunter. It looks to be either a chocolate or black lab, can't be sure... the tail looks a bit short in the picture. I grew up with pure bred labs, in all variety of colors. I will probably never own another breed of dog other than a lab. Any other picutres of your dog would be great if you care to share, finhunter. =)

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Well, I bought a fly vise today. Drove to the nearest Bass Pro Shop and took a look at the vises that they had there. There was only one vise that I cared to look at, and it was the Peak PRV-G2.

     

    After being shown its features versus a non-true rotary vise (they had an Apex there) I had a greater understanding of what true rotary is. The guy tied a few flies with me, and I was sold on the vise. Picked one up for about $130 USD. I also picked up some medium round rubber, 2mm black foam, some razor black foam, size 14 fly hooks as well as some black and gold flashabou tinsel.

     

    If anyone can guess by now what I will be making as my first ever flies, post them here. =)

     

    Let's just say that the flies I am making are going to replace what I lost when I went fishing this past Saturday with my father-in-law. They were his that he loaned to me. ;)

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the warm welcome you guys. Conehead, I am in York, PA. About the only streams I have got my line wet in thus far is the Yellowbreeches and a couple of streams up north in the mountains, near Clinton county such as Old Womans Creek and Young Womans Creek.

     

    I plan to be fly fishing with my father-in-law at Mud Creek this Saturday (tomorrow). The awesome whether we have been getting the past week will prove to be an awesome experience. Getting up at five in the morning and fishing for most of the day. I'll let you know how it goes. =)

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys! Thought I'd drop by and make myself known. I registered a few days ago and have been busy poring over various threads for hours at this site. Honestly, this site kicks a lot of ass; there's plenty of contribution from members, no drama, and best of all, great information and posts. Some of my more favorite threads thus far are:

     

    What Vise do you use?, Why?

    Fly Reel Progress - Custom Made

    Finished Fly Reel - Custom Made

    FTOTY Bamboo Rod, Process of constructing the rod

     

    Anyhow, a little info about me. I have been fishing nearly all my life. I started with a 6.5 foot Daiwa rod and a Mitchell Garcia 408 open face bail system reel that I continue to use to this day. I mostly fish for trout, catfish and bass, pretty much whatever the region I live in offers. I just recently started fly fishing, and with that came the desire to start tying my own flies. I must honestly admit that I am enthralled with fly fishing. While I have only been doing it for about three months now, I enjoy it much more than bait and lure casting, almost to a fault. After fishing with bait and lures for so long, fly fishing has opened a whole new world for me. I find fishing to be a relaxing, exciting and fun experience, but even more so with my 9 foot, two piece Redington rod and SVII 5/6 reel.

     

    I live in Pennsylvania at the moment, and relatively new to both the area, and the waters available to fish in. If anyone has any kind of information, tips or hints of where to fish around the Harrisburg or Lancaster area, please let me know. I love fishing, but doing so with a fly rod is about as good as it can get. To be perfectly honest, I have not once thought about going out with my bait/lure rod since having started fly fishing. I have the bug, and I have it bad.

     

    I plan to start learning how to tie my own flies very soon, and as a novice will be frequenting these forums very often to seek information and advice from other members of the community here. With that said, I hope to exchange ideas and advice with you all. Thanks for a great site!

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Okay, I feel like a total idiot. I now realize that I was wrong, as I was visualizing in my mind the bottom of the "V" as being the rotational point, not the end of the clamp holding the hook. Of course the bottom of the "V" will rotate in a 3 inch circle, but that is not where the hook is placed.

     

    Thank you all for the clarification.

     

    One more thing. The HMH Spartan... how is the vertical dowel holding the horitonzal shaft held in place so that it does not flop around? Is there a friction screw of some sort that connects the two pieces together and allows the shaft arm to pivot freely, but not so much so that it wobbles when you are tying flies?

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Before I go into a long dissertation on vises, let me ask this question. What type of fly will you be tying the most? Drys, nymphs, streamers?

    Dries and Nymphs mostly. It's all I have fly fished with thus far. ;)

     

    A true rotary vice lets you rotate the hook while keeping it in the same plane. Thus instead of wrapping around the hook you can hold the material and just rotate the hook.

     

    I guess what I am most confused about with rotary action vises, in particular this one, is the fact that, for example, on the Pike PRV-G2 vise...

     

    IPB Image

     

    ...the hook holding system is at a 45 degree angle. I understand that you place the hook, barb down in a horizontal fasion so that the hook is in-line with the turning shaft, the barb pointing away from the vise. That I understand. What I am fuzzy about is that as you turn the handle to acheive the 'true rotary' action of the vise, the entire hook holding system, sitting at a 45 degree angle, will move in line with the rotating shaft, but will create a circle 2-3 inches around the shaft itself. Is this normal? Is this an advantage or disadvantage versus the rotary system of say, the HMH Spartan?

     

    I would think that tying thread onto a hook shaft would be easier if the hook didn't make that 3 inch circle around the rotating shaft. Rather, by having the hook rotate in-line with the rotating shaft itself, making no circle at all, like the HMH Spartan does, the thread would be easier to apply, no?

     

    I am very new to this field of fly fishing, so any help and/or guidance with this concern would be greatly appreciated.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I have the Peak vise and am very happy with it. It is made in Colorado and is $145 at traditionalangler.com.

    This thing is bomb proof. In fact yesterday I ordered the midge jaws because I have begun to tye very

    small stuff too.

     

    It is worth a look anyway. The pedestal base is very heavy so it does not move on the bench.

    Tom :)

    The more I look at the Peak PRV-G2 vise, the more I am liking it. Simple lines and no frills makes this a great looking and functional vise. Here's a great review I found of the vise.

     

    However, I am a bit confused. What exactly is the difference between a non-rotary, rotary and true-rotary vise? I am interested in both the benefits and/or drawbacks as well as the mechanics of what a non-rotary, rotary and true-rotary vise do. Can anyone sit me down and give me a quick lesson on all things rotary when it comes to fly tying vises?

     

    Thanks! =D

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