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wayneb

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Posts posted by wayneb

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Barry;

     

    I normally tie mine on a 2x size 10 dry fly hook, red congo hair for tail and abdomen, yellow foam hook gap width, with yellow baby bug wrap for legs in normal location. I use red flat waxed nylon to tie pattern. I think the flat waxed nylon holds the foam better without tearing it.

     

    I've also tied this in pink with black congo hair tail & abdomen, pink baby bug wrap leags and pink flat waxed nylon.

     

    Both patterns work well for panfish with the yellow & red being a little more successful.

     

    I plan on trying a larger version for bass, using a mustad size 6 3366 hook, white tail & abdomen, black legs and green foam. Still thinking out the thread color. I Aaso plan on making foam 1 1/2 times the hook gap width. I'm attempting a frog like pattern.

     

    Wayne

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Silverbullet32;

     

    If your heart's not set in stone on making hard body poppers but just topwater patterns, I'd recommend Gurgle-Pops and Gartside Gurglers. They're much easier to tie and just as effective.

     

    Both fly patterns are former fly of the week patterns at FAOL(Fly anglers On-line).

    Gurgle-pop 4th quarter 2003, Gartside gurgler 2nd quarter 1999

     

    I made tons of foam boddied popeers when I started tying but found these two patterns just as effective if not more effective and much easier/quicker to make, also cheaper.

     

    Just a thought;

     

    Wayneb

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Ray;

     

    I think your POP flies series has reached "pattern style" status! This is one style/pattern that's a lot of fun to play with, I tied up some with red then olive& pale yellow baby bug wrap, with and without underwrap. I even tied some up with green then bronze herl and a combo ot the two, I tied the reds with black hen neck, the combinations are limitless!

     

    Thanks for sharing this pattern;

     

    Wayneb

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All;

     

    I've ordered from the Mad Scientist many times and my order normally takes ten days.

     

    I just palced an order at lunch today, will let you know how I make out.

     

    Horseshoes summed up FTD pretty well, sometimes it takes a while to get your order, sometimes communication takes a while but for the price, quality, and quantity, it's worth the wait.

     

    Wayneb

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Hi tflyons;

     

    Here's an example of one tied as a bluegill: http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com/corner.asp?page=8 This site also has step by step instructions. There are several other examples in the fly pattern database on this site.

     

    A couple of other things: there are many subtle, different techniques at high tying, find which works best for you. Also, a lot of the materials used react to heat, in that if you run your pattern under warm water or carefully heat it with a blow dryer, you can set the fibers so they retain thier shape better. Finally, the best tip I can give is if you think you the bunch of material your about to tie on is small enough, half it and eventually you will reduce the material to the proper amount. You'll know when you get it right!

    Wayneb

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Craig;

     

    There's a printable template fot the "stealth bomber" fly at the following link:

     

    http://www.flyfishga.com/stealth.htm I've tied this one and it's a good performer on bluegills and Bass

     

    You can make your own templates out of card stock or think plastic stock, I used plastic from a used campaign poster you'd find on the side of the road after election day. You can also purchase plastic for sale type signs from hardware stores or Wally World.

     

    Wayneb

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Picked up the mustad catalog and conversion chart from DR. Fish himself yesterday at the Fly Fishing Show in Somerset NJ. I wish I had seen this question prior to attending and could ask him in person!

     

    Funny thing, I have Mustad 9672'S in size 10 and they match up with the R73-9671 size 10's in the catalog.

     

    This would be a good question for Dr Fish at FAOL

     

    Wayneb

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hi JoeO;

     

    I've experienced that same problems as you with hackle pliers breaking the herl and or letting loose of one herl in a bundle at the worst opportunity. Now I just use my hands.

     

    An interesting technique for handling herl I recently viewed on Sylvest Nemes's Tying soft hackle DVD. He ties the herl in at the center of the strands where you want the herl to begin. He then grabs both ends and wraps to completion. Haven't tried it yet but it looks promising.

     

    Wayneb

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Andrew;

     

    A kayak sounds like the boat for you, you will have to either go inflatable or something very short to store it in a house though. as far as bargain kayaks, check out your local craigs list or possibly a store that sells canoes and kayaks and takes/sells trade ins.

     

    Wayneb

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All;

     

    I've had a Danvise for two years with no problems. For something made of plastic, I never have the feeling that it's flimsy. It definetly made a big improvement in my tying abilities and speed. Whatever you buy I strongly suggest you purchase something that's a true rotary. Even if you never use the rotary functions in tying(but you should if you want to tie faster), the ability to see your fly from all angles whilst tying is well worth it. If I ever need or want an additional vise, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another Danvise.

     

    Wayneb

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All;

     

    I much prefer dubbing in bags, I can't seem to get what I want or maintain a proper blend using the dubbing boxes with holes.

     

    It seems like every fly tying demo I've seen at a show, the fly tyer has the dubbing out of the box in a small clump/pile on the table. I find removing a bit of dubbing and putting it on my bench works best for me.

     

    Wayneb

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All;

     

    The material is called pre wrap. It's intended use is for pre wrapping body parts such as ankles before taping them. This protects the skin fron tears once tape is removed. My oldest daughter has been using it for years to tape her ankles prior to playing a soccer game. I think the manufacters came out with different colors for all the young girls playing soccer. Yes a lot of girls use it to create headbands and other things.

     

    It's readily availble at sporting goods stores and sometimes at a discount on ebay. My wife buys it and athletic tape in bulk from an ebay supplier, I can ask her where if any are interested.

     

    So, after looking at this stuff for years and never seeing it's potential for fly tying, does it float??

     

    Wayneb

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All;

     

    I purchased a Danvise about a year ago and use the rotary function more and more.

     

    At first I just used to make sure I tied the patteren well by observing the fly from multiple angles.

     

    Now I incorporate the rotary function in just about every fly I tie. A wooly bugger can be completed in the fraction of the time it used to take me. Applying the chenille and hackle at the same time and now advancing the thread with them creates a more durable fly in what seems like seconds!

     

    Wayneb

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I cut the bottom off the bag so I can slide out the materail enough to remove some then, slide it back in. If that doesn't work, having both sides open makes it easier to push it back in the tube from the zip lock side.

     

    I do the same with flash materials except I just cut one corner off the bottom and pick out strands with the tips of my scissors. My flash materials stay much straighter!

     

    Wayneb

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