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RBF Staff

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About RBF Staff

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  1. I picked up a mint, unfished, never had a reel screwed on it 8'6" Sage LL 5wt 2pc. Its a gorgeous as gorgeous can be, and while I have had it for months I just now got up the nerve to fish it. Used it over the weekend and when I got it home I noticed that the seat concealed by the sliding band was fogged over from moisture. I almost had heart failure when I saw it, but I sat in the sun and stared at it while I mumbled to myself rocking back and forth, and it went away. What can I do to prevent this again? The rod is completely factory fresh, although its 30 years old. Its as if the finish went bad, but I have never heard of this. Of course I have never had a new 30 year old rod before either! Any ideas from the wood finish experts? Thanks, CJ Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32415
  2. Hello, long time lurker very few times posting here. Like the title says, I'm looking for a blank that might work to make a mini blank like the one on this link. http://www.jaustinforbes.com/micro.html We want ti make a 2 or 3 weight mini rod.It doesn't have to be one piece , I'm thinking of using the top part of a two piece 7'6" rod, any input? Thanks in advance.I'm glad to be back on this site and soon I should be posting what I've been working on. Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32414
  3. Hello all, been lurking for a short time and decided to sign up a little while ago. So, Im new to the rod building gig (started this year in 2014) but have cranked out quite a few already because it's rather addicting. Now that I feel I'm getting the hang on some things I want to start fine tuning my finished thread wraps. The one thing I'm noticing is that I get a small bump where my tag ends are pulled under the thread. I use PacBay Size A thread and primarily want to focus on 6 - 8wt salt water fly rods. * So question number one - how do I get around this bump, it becomes rather apparent once the epoxy is on. I've cut them down when the epoxy is dry enough but I feel this method is really a work-around, not a real solution. * So, this leads me to question number 2 - Do thread diameter thickness vary from one company to the others... in other words, are all size A threads the same size and if not, which brands are thinnest for the same size A strength? * Next, Sage and the like make nice rods, and their wraps/epoxy jobs are nice, even and very flat, the epoxy almost looks like it flows right into the rods general "clear" coat". Is this some super secret squirrel method to their rod wrapping madness or is this something I could achieve as I get more experienced? So far I've only built on Batson blanks, some glossy ones and some are the matte gray...seems it would be hard to achieve that look on the matte gray due to the contrast from the epoxy gloss to the matte... not expecting that "Sage" look on that particular rod blank. I'm able to get away from the foot ball shape (at least most of it) by kind of doing what Mr Carlyn explained in a tutorial I found on here..I used a credit card but don't use DNA since I use U 40 LS Supreme Duragloss - I don't know how sensitive that stuff is to altering it by thinning it even more. So, all in all I'm looking for some better results, with thinner thread though still strong enough for salt water use (Size A) and an even smoother profile, not having the tag ends create a small bump... and yes curiosity kills me and I want to know what Sage uses thread wise.. Thanks in advance for your input. Here is a picture of the latest build I did for a friend on Montana built on a Forecast blank 905-2 RX6 Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32413
  4. Details at > http://raspberryfisher.wordpress.com/2014/...nch-leader-rod/ Eye Candy Below > . . . . Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32412
  5. Seeing as how Ron is gone for a week fishing I figure no better time than the present to pick on him. Have you seen this man?? He answers to the name Goduster, will most likely be carrying a shuffleboard stick in his hand, and smells of tapioca pudding. If you see this man please return him to the Shady Acres retirement home for the senile in Az. It is Bingo night and we know how grumpy he gets when he misses that :whistle: Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32411
  6. HI guys, this is my first post here although I've been lurking around for the past few years... This is my 3rd rod build, and I am pretty satisfied with it. What do you guys think? Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32410
  7. Hi everyone, I am about to start on this new adventure and would like to know if anyone built a minimalistic set of instrument to build something like a poor man's quad (or hex) in Europe, where the prices and availability of instruments is different than across the pond. I need a minimal set of good quality instruments to get started and get a feel of the building process and then buy by need. So what should I look at and more importantly where to get (or which brand?). Thanks in advance for the help. Cheers Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32409
  8. I am looking for this specific thread because I am out of it and I used it when I built my Sage TXL a few years back. I broke the tip and had to replace the it and got a spare tip, but I have no gudebrod Olive green thread to make identical wraps. Does anyone have some they could sell me? I am not interested in tearing down such a light rod to rebuild it for fear of compromising the blank. It is a 00 wt and I can tell you from experience it takes very little to put a weak spot in the blank. The tip broke from a tap off a #22 tiny bead head fly, about 6 months later with a fish on I might add. Thanks Cody Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32408
  9. So I spent quite a bit of money on good rod components. Everything arrived in time for a me to be able to complete building a fly rod in time for a nice week long fishing trip I have coming up at the end of this week (or so I thought). I'm really having trouble completing wrapping the guides on the tip half of the two piece blank. I'd get quite a few on only to knock one off in the middle because it was hitting the wrapper jig upright while I was spinning on a new one. I have at least two do-overs now on every guide and finally I lost a guide when it came off unnoticed. The new rod won't be going with me. I had to reorder a guide. Is it me or does wrapping the guides get exponentially more difficult as you approach the tip? A few of the problems: 1. Difficulty temporarily mounting the snake guide with tape keeping it in alignment. (Is there anyway to hold a snake guide in alignment -they are such a weird shape) 2. At the start of a wrap the thread slips due to reduced surface contact as the rod diameter decreases. 3. The whip finish loop seems to overpower everything else in size and gets difficult to manage. 4. The smaller diameter rod won't stay put and wants to spin in the jig loosening the thread if I let the rod go. 5. As I mentioned - undoing finished wraps done earlier due to banging into the wrapping jig. One thing I thought of for slipping thread was to get it wet. Has anyone every tried wrapping soaked thread? I may just be getting to old to old for this hobby - bad eyes shaky hands, but I would appreciate any comments/advice specifically addressing the five points mentioned above. I'd hate to have to hire someone to finish the rod. Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32407
  10. Hi Guys, I have been given a z axis b rod that was built a few years ago. The rod wasn't built/finished properly and I need to redo the whole thing. The rod has been stored as a two piece for quite some time and the ferrule closest to the handle is stuck. I have tried to pull it apart but I fear I'll brake the blank before separating the ferrule as it is stuck quite securely. Are there any tricks that people would recomend. The owner does want it separated. Thanks Ben Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32405
  11. Looking for suggestions for blanks to build a 12 wt tarpon rod. Looking at the sage Xi3, but have seen mixed reviews on them. The G loomis NRX blanks are impossible to find. For all you expert salt water fly rod builders, what are the best blanks these days? I want something fast, powerful and accurate. Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32404
  12. Jackson's 6 year birthday was today, he's got strep throat. Poor guy! Dropped by and gave him his present, was planning a little stream fishing but that will have to wait. A couple of weeks ago he told me I needed to build him a 'rod'. Showed him some I had and he told me what he liked and what he wanted. Short, green, spin, and it had to have snake skin! The only thing I had short enough was a tip off a 9' 5wgt fly rod, green. Got him a little shoulder bag and put in some lures and such, ready to go! Sorry about the pics, not used to this camera. Mike Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32403
  13. Hello all, I am looking for advice as to what type of fish weight scale I should get. Handheld for my boat mostly for salmon and trout. I see there are digital and mechanical in a wide price range. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Doug Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32402
  14. Finally got my personal and mate to my wife's 5wt for our San Juan trip. Really looking forward to fishing it on Tuesday The stripper guide is a proprietory one with a carbide insert set in a nickle silver rope knurled frame. Kudos to Baitwaister for the grip, Shane for the guide, and of course Karen for another fantastic SHX blank Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32401
  15. I took my original Scott 1409 and did the following: • Sanded the upper grip down to a smaller diameter (from about 1.2″ to 1.0″), and removed the upper hand finger notch. • Remove 1.5″ off the lower handle and add a new butt fitted in a double tenon onto the rod and then cork. •Add a 1.3 oz lead bar into the lower handle. . • The butt is constructed from African Blackwood and a Raspberry Rhino-Plastic Turning Blank. The pieces where independently turned, but turned to be a tight and double tenon adjoining fit. There is no varnish and relying on the properties of the material for protection. The African Blackwood was finished with 600 grit, while the plastic was finished to 6000 (wet mesh). The red was chosen to match the Scott writing above the handle. Why? As a short-arm Scandi-Skagit caster, were full arm extension is painful for me, I need to move the balance point down, ligthen the reel and make the handle more comfortable to hold on the swing. This has allowed me to remove weight off (T17) the reel, and the balance point is now 16.5″ from the butt, versus 19+" with the weighted reel. Reply to topic here http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32400
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