Jump to content
Fly Tying
Sign in to follow this  
Guest

Extended Body help

Recommended Posts

Guest

I've been working on some March Browns with the extended bodies. I'm using some old leader butt ends for the foundation. (probably 25-30# test)

 

I flatten one end of the leader (the end that gets attached to the hook) and leave a decent tag for the tail section. I guesstimate the length of the tail and tie the fibbets at the junction of the hook and the mono. From there I'll take the thread and trap the fibbets on the topside of the mono all the way to where I figured the end will be. Cool, no problem there

 

Here's where I run into problems. The mono is already curved upward do to the memory. (Perfect)

As I dub the thread the weight of the bobbin seems to remove that curvature and I can't seem to get it back. The result is an almost straight tail instead of the upswept look.

 

Also, is there an easy way to use a dubbing loop? I would prefer to use real rabbit underfur instead of some of the Spectrablends I'm currently using. I've tried it without a loop and it's just not durable. I'm afraid if I have my dubbing spinner hanging from the tail it will end up under the fly...LOL

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shoe,

 

I know exactly what you mean. Are you set on using mono for the extended tail? If not, you may want to experiment with deer or elk hair (which will float longer, and allow you to shape it once it's tied). I use the following method, although there are many others:

 

http://www.onlineflytyer.com/article_extendedspin.asp

 

Just a thought. Good luck!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Yup, Mono

 

I followed the instructions of the Benchside Reference. Having something solid like a needle sounds like a perfect solution.

 

Thanks, Nick. I'll give that a shot. Excellent step-by-step!!!! headbang.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NP. Here is a thought. What if you used one of those curved sowing needles instead of a straight one and then tied the extended body?

 

I can't see why you couldn't use mono along side the needle, as long as you kept your wraps fairly tight and used a very fine needle. That way the result would be a curved, or bent tail instead of straight. Anyways, let us know how it goes...

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

I decided not to bust chops in this one! devil.gif

Go to the local craft store and buy a package of Repair Needles, the funky curved, triangle-tapered and so forth needles used to stitch canvas or leather or sailcloth or a gash in your leg (in a worst case situation, you understand! blink.gif ) Then, like Pujey Baby said, you can marry all the curves together and have them stay tight and extract the needle when done winding.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Nah- but considering this is the day of the full moon and I'm slugging it out at work with the 'brain surgeons', not to mention I'm in a bit of pain, it wasn't worth trying to be cute- it wouldn't have worked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Why bother with all that palaver.??.?

Try this.

 

Mount the hook in the vice or hold it tight between your fingers.

 

Wind the tying thread from the eye to halfway down the shank

At this point take a bunch of 15 - 20 longfibred deerhair, comb out the fluff and align the points.

Tie in the deerhair securely with the points of the hair going back over the vice head (or yr wrist). Lash the hair firmly to the shank, then hold the deerhair between thumb and forefinger of your left hand(you are right handed here)

take five or six turns of thread toward the rear of the bunch, making sure the turns are evenly spaced. Then take a couple of turns of the thread around the hair and secure with a half hitch. Now take five - six turns again around the deerhair, returning the thread to the point where the deerhair is tied in. Secure the thread on the hook to avoid slipping.

You now have a detached body with a flared end. Cut out most of the deer hairs, leaving enough for tails. put a drop of HardasNails on the back end of the body to secure the thread at the half hitch, build the wings , add hackle and thorax;

wind the hackle and finish

 

As a matter of interest this can be achieved at the waterside without a vice

No needles are required

Tools needed - scissors and bobbin holder; fingers and teeth

Oh - a full moon helps too.

 

dry.gif

Happy tying

Roy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rooster feathers have a natural bend and float, a suggeston might be to tie in one of these and work the dubbing up the stem of the feather.

 

The stem would be the thich base of the feather stripped away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shoe,

 

I just thought of another alternative. What about using mallard for the extended body and tail? Tie it in "Wally" style (Wally Lutz). Mallard is available in many colors so you can match the hatch just fine, whether it be Hendricksons, March Browns, Green Drakes, whatever...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Once again the answers are right here smile.gif

 

Well I found a few minutes to play, but got side-tracked and forgot to half-hitch the tail. DUH. I finished the fly and noticed the end getting a little loose while trimming. No problem, a little super glue will fix that. Seems that Bob (my shoemaker) exchanged the fine tip with our larger one. bugeyes.gif Glue all down in the jaws. bugeyes.gif bs.gif crying.gif

 

Thankfully I had some Un-Cure (debonder). 20 minutes later.....

 

 

Using the deer hair method worked quite well. Sure beats the slippery qualities of mono. I will also try the "stem method" and not dubbing it like Roy described. Sounds much like the Borcher's Kevin submitted

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hmmm am new to tying but have you tryed to use epoxy over the mono before you put it to the hook as i see it when mono is wet it is gone from sight therefore you get the same effect as haveing a clear body ( you can even color the epoxy to get a different effect) NOTE : i am not sure this will work i am just thinking it MIGHT work

 

marinac

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Well the hackle is kinda long and the egg sack a bit coarse, but it's a start.

 

user posted image

 

Marinac,

I've thought of using adhesives, but I was afraid that would make the tail too heavy. Perhaps a very light coat to firm it up may not hurt. dunno.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...