CanCanCase 0 Report post Posted September 5, 2008 Sorry for the crummy picture (again) - it's the best my iPhone will do on short notice and up-close. This is the piece I'm tying. I'm having good luck so far, and it may just come down to practice... does anyone have any tips? It seems I often need a third hand to get the "clump" of KF held around the tube, wax the thread or floss, tie a half hitch and begin wrapping (whipping?) to form the head. Then, once I get things all nice and tight, I rotate the vice only to find that I can see the tube along the bottom of the fly - I didn't get the KF clumped all the way around the tube... I'm sure there's a technique or tool that I've not discovered yet to make this easier, yes? Oh, and does anyone have a pic or video handy to explain what a whip finishing tool is good for? TIA! -Case Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruce Derington 0 Report post Posted September 6, 2008 This should answer any questions http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer..._type=&aq=f Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CanCanCase 0 Report post Posted September 6, 2008 Yep, that covered the whip finishing tool... Now... anyone have any tips on keeping the tube in the middle of the clump of KF? I've got several now that feature most of the KF "on top" and a bare tube sticking out the bottom or side... -Case Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruce Derington 0 Report post Posted September 7, 2008 One method is to take a large clump of flash and with your dominate hand position the clump entirely around the shank by "pushing" clump over /into the shank, and once you have this distribution, grab clump with other hand and make 2 soft turns of thread around the clump and give it a good pull. This reqiures a little practice, but it works well for me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CoachBob 0 Report post Posted September 8, 2008 Cover the shank with thread first. This keeps it from spinning. Then tie in small clumps N, S, E & W. The result is generally uniform. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CanCanCase 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2008 Got it... Bruce's "clump pushing" method seems to work best for me - also avoids excess thread usage as I'm trying to keep cost down since we go through hundreds each season. Now for the next piece of the puzzle... There's a clear coating over the head that I'm trying to identify. So far I've tried "all purpose fly tying cement" but it soaks in (that's a good thing!) and doesn't leave the finish as smooth and glossy as I'd like. I've got some good 5-min epoxy, but it seems a bit thick and gooey... Is there such a thing as varnish that would smooth the thread wraps out, maybe soak in to glue it all together, and be compatible with the paint markers to do the eyes? Specific names/brands/varieties would help me track the stuff down. Thanks again! -Case Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruce Derington 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2008 Your killin me You can get a shiny head using multiple coats(let dry between coats) of regular head cement. There are several things on market. The epoxy's work well but you need a dryer for them Flex Coat(google flex coat fly dryer) is a inexpensive one that works well. Another head coat is softex, But I use Sally Hansons Hard As Nails(makeup isle in drug store)It comes in clear and black, maybe more. 5 min. epoxy works well, just need a fly dyer like one mentioned above Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
