Hairstacker

Wow, what a great collection! Love looking at stuff like this. -- Mike

I agree, those are some great poppers! -- Mike

Very, very nice! -- Mike

BB, thank you! Hope you and your loved ones have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's!

My favorite, go-to panfish rod is an assertive 2 wt. rod I own that I overline with a RIO WF3F Warmwater line (sadly discontinued). For me, I consider it just about perfect for panfish. I can easily cast up to size 6 streamers and small deer hair poppers 40' with it, and I've easily taken out the occasional unintended bass up to 15" with it.

No rooster hackle? You'll need it if you plan to tie mayfly dun imitations (e.g., Adams, Light Cahill, etc.), caddis/stonefly dries (e.g., Elk Hair Caddis, Stimulator, etc.), midge dries (Griffith's Gnat) and any number of attractor dries (Royal Wulff, Trudes, Humpy, etc.) Nothing on your current list will substitute for rooster hackle and judging by the other items you selected, you will miss it. If you only buy one cape, get grizzly. If you only get two capes, add brown. If you get three, add medium blue dun. If you can afford it, get all the colors I listed. You should consider Whiting half-capes if cost is a concern. No spooled antron? Darn handy for simulating shucks (think Sparkle Dun or a caddis emerger). Why so much flat waxed nylon?

Well, if I was going to tie midges, I would certainly want to add a card of white Polypro yarn to the list to simulate the gills. And for ants, based on an underwater study, Ralph Cutter tells us there is no substitute for black antron for the body to get the bubble effect yielded by the body of a real ant in water. Finally, for a mouse pattern, I would also want to add some type of suede or other soft leather material to craft the ears and tails. As far as the other fly types you listed, there are so many possible variations I couldn't begin to suggest what you'd want to use -- best to identify the materials associated with the specific fly patterns you want to tackle. -- Mike

Ok, I'll take a stab at it. 2 years is a long time . . . if I were to be sequestered to a desert island with all the fly tying materials I would want for 2 years with no cost concerns, I'd ask for the following: Tools: HMH Standard Bench Vise (my current vise) Oasis Pedestal Base Bench (my current pedestal for my beloved vise) Dr. Slick 3" Micro-tip scissors, 3 pairs Dr. Slick 4 1/2" Tungsten Carbide scissors Dr. Slick 3 1/2" curved scissors Griffin Supreme ceramic bobbins, 3 Griffin flared bobbin Bodkin Hair stacker, large English-style hackle pliers Hemostats Dubbing loop tool Barb masher pliers Whip finisher, Matarelli style Griffin hackle gauge Griffin hair comb Brassie hair packer tool, large Large plastic under-bed storage bins (4) Supplies: Double-edged razor blades, 10 packs Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails nail polish, 20 bottles Flex-Seal fly cement, 5 bottles Locktite superglue, 10 bottles 200 hooks each of the following hook models and sizes: Tiemco TMC 100 - sizes 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 Tiemco TMC 5212 - sizes 10, 12, 14 Tiemco TMC 5262 - sizes 10, 12, 14 Tiemco TMC 3761 - sizes 12, 14, 16, 18 Tiemco TMC 200R - sizes 12, 14, 16, 18 Tiemco TMC 5263 - sizes 6, 8, 10, 12 Tiemco TMC 9395 - sizes 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 Tiemco TMC 3769 - size 14 Tiemco TMC 7999 - sizes 6 Tiemco TMC 2457 - sizes 12, 14, 16 Tiemco TMC 2487 - sizes 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 Tiemco TMC 600S - size 3/0 Tiemco TMC 8089 - size 2 Eagle Claw EC413 - size 1/0 1000 yards each of the following threads and colors: Danville 6/0 - black, brown, olive, red, orange, yellow, pale yellow, chartreuse, fluorescent red Orvis 6/0 - rust, tan Uni-Thread 6/0 - rust brown Uni-Thread 8/0 - fire orange, red, light cahill, dark brown, black, olive Orvis 8/0 - tan, rust, olive Griffiths 14/0 - tan, olive, red, brown, black Danville 3/0 Monocord - black, brown, tan, olive, chartreuse UTC Ultra GSP 200 denier - white Danville Flat Waxed Nylon 210 - chartreuse 1 spool each of the following antron colors: ginger, rusty amber, tan, green, caddis green, lime Miscellaneous feathers as follows: Whiting Platinum grade rooster capes: grizzly, brown, ginger, medium blue dun, coachman brown, black Whiting hen capes - grizzly, medium dun Whiting tailing packs -- cream, medium dun, light pardo Saltwater/bass capes -- black, yellow, white, grizzly olive, grizzly yellow Strung marabou -- white, black, brown, brown olive, dark olive, olive, light olive, yellow olive, yellow, chartreuse Strung saddle feathers (extra long) -- olive, white, grizzly, red Whiting Woolly Bugger packs -- black, brown, olive, grizzly Goose and Turkey biots -- brown, tan, medium blue dun, olive, ginger, yellow Ostrich herl -- black, white, light gray CDC feathers -- white, blue dun Whole pheasant -- natural, olive Turkey tail feathers -- natural Turkey wing quills -- natural Turkey t-base feathers -- white Golden pheasant tippet Pheasant tail - natural Peacock eyes Peacock swords Jungle cock eyes India hen back -- natural Whole partridge -- natural Whole starling English grouse feathers Teal flank feathers -- natural Wood duck feathers -- natural Mallard flank feathers -- natural, olive, tan Mallard quills -- white, gray Miscellaneous furs as follows: Hare's masks, 5 each -- natural, olive, black Bunny strips -- white, natural, black, olive Crossbut bunny strips -- white, natural, black, olive Pine squirrel micro strips - olive Deer body hair (5 packs each color) -- natural, black, red, green, olive Deer belly hair -- white (10), yellow (5), green (5) red (3), and (1) pack ea. of chartreuse, fluorescent red, fluorescent orange Deer comparadun hair -- natural (2 packs) Bucktail -- natural, yellow, red, chartreuse, gray, olive, orange, black, cerise Calf body hair -- white Calf tail -- natural Whole red fox squirrel -- natural Gray squirrel tail -- natural Moose body hair Elk hair -- natural, bleached Muskrat Red fox Dubbing -- the follow selections that come in the plastic dispensers: Super Fine Waterproof Dry Fly Dubbing Selection Rabbit Nymph Dubbing Selection Hare-tron Dubbing Selection Scud Dubbing Selection Dave Whitlock SLF Series I Dave Whitlock SLF Series II Miscellaneous: Lead wire or lead-free equivalent -- .010, .015, .020, .025, .030, .035 Tinsel flat silver/gold (i.e., colors on each side) -- small, medium Tinsel oval silver -- fine, small, medium Tinsel oval gold -- fine, small, medium Ultrawire small, brassie, medium -- copper, red, gold, silver Flashabou -- silver, gold, pearl Krystal Flash -- silver, pearl, peacock, smolt blue, black, olive, rootbeer Midge Flash -- silver, pearl, black, olive Floss -- red, yellow, green, olive Chenille, medium, fine, and velvet/micro -- black, dark olive, olive, light olive, brown, white, yellow, red, poopah brown Cactus chenille, small, medium -- peacock, olive, brown, pearl, rootbeer Beads, gold & copper -- 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16 Lead dumbbell eyes, red -- 5/32 oz., 6/32 oz. 7/32 oz. Rubber legs, medium -- white, yellow, red, black, chartreuse Rubber legs, small -- white, yellow, black Sili-legs -- brown with orange flake Beadchain, small and medium -- gold, silver 2mm foam sheets -- yellow, black, red, green Selection of eyeballs in different sizes (doll eyes, etc.) Well, that's all that comes to mind and I'm sure I missed some stuff but this would get you started and keep you entertained for a year or two. . . . You said money was no object, but I think you can get all this for less than $4,000. Aside from the tools and supplies, another approach would be to wait until you get your books and then select a few dozen fly patterns to start and just get the materials listed to tie a dozen or two of each of those patterns. That would pare down this list considerably. -- Mike

Looks good. I echo what Baiter said: a trailing shuck made out of Antron like yours should be sparse -- at least half or less of what you have there.

I thought it was obvious.

Green hornet, looks like you've been having fun, good for you! As a beginning tyer, there are certain basic, fundamental aspects of tying that you want to pay particular attention to and master in order to progress quickly. Unless you have someone who can show you the ropes, so to speak, I highly recommend you obtain an excellent book like Skip Morris' "Fly Tying Made Clear and Simple." Youtube videos are great for established tyers who are merely trying to verify the sequence of steps necessary to tie a certain fly but most of these videos don't give the specific, detailed instruction that a beginning tyer really should have to develop basic material handling and thread control skills. Moreover, it is probably more useful to stick with one pattern and tie it at least a dozen or more times before moving on to the next fly pattern. In other words, master the fly pattern and strive to tie it as well as anyone else does before moving on. The point is not just to be able to tie a certain pattern perfectly; rather, it is to force yourself to master the techniques and thread control necessary to duplicate the fly rather than just blow by these skills. The book I mentioned above is extremely detailed and addresses these things while teaching you to tie a dozen or so useful fly patterns. Anyway, as you tie flies, pay particular attention to where you're supposed to tie on to the hook, where you attach materials on to the hook, etc. Strive for economy of wraps (e.g., don't do 4 thread wraps if 3 will do, etc.), avoid crowding the hook eye, and pay constant and critical attention to proper proportions -- i.e., is the tail the right thickness and length? How about the wing? etc. Developing an eye for proper proportions is a critically important beginning skill. Once you have mastered this aspect, by all means vary the proportions on a fly as you deem warranted. But in the beginning, stick with generally accepted proportions so you master the skill and ability to duplicate them. As you tie each part of the fly, stop, look it over -- if the tail is supposed to be equal to the length of the hook shank, for example, is it? If not, unwind, and re-do until it is. If you do this for each part as you go, your flies will improve dramatically -- it's perfect parts that make up a perfect fly and it's not simply practice that will make you a better tyer quickly, but rather perfect practice. I noticed it appears you're using what looks to be about a 4x-long streamer hook for all of your ties. Although it isn't necessary to have the exact hook model for every pattern you attempt, you should consider building up an inventory of at least a basic variety of hook styles so that you can select hooks more appropriate for the flies you attempt. For example, Clousers are typically tied on much shorter hooks. Anyway, just trying to be helpful. -- Mike

Since I too tie at the kitchen table . . . dinner? -- Mike

He didn't say that -- I think what he's saying is that he needs a vise that can tolerate how hard he pulls on thread. -- Mike

Like rockworm, I often use moose body hair for tails on my Adams as well. For tails on dries, I also like to use the feathers obtained in the Whiting Tailing Packs (i.e., Coq de Leon feathers) -- I like their naturally mottled appearance. -- Mike

That's completely out of hand when some of you fellas are throwing your beloved vises and tools around -- sit back, take a deep breath . . . and spot something else to throw. -- Mike

I'm in if you'll have me. I'll tie up a Clodhopper variant pattern that I tried out several times on the water this fall and just nailed 'em with it. It is now my "go-to" topwater panfish pattern, although I imagine it will catch other fish species as well. -- Mike

Very nice stacking there! -- Mike

You obviously do a lot of spinning....May I ask what type of thread you use? I recently started using G.S.P. thread for spinning. I am having a difficult time locking it to the hook shank. Only thing that sort of works is several sets of whip wraps but even that is not reliable. This thread is incredibly strong but real slippery. Wasting a lot of good belly hair. Any suggestions? When using GSP, I give the tie-in point a drop of instant-drying superglue. Works for me. -- Mike

Setting aside "purism" or "ethics," it all comes down to how you want to play the game. Do you want to attract fish purely by your abilities and creativity at the vise or do you want scent to play a role in that? Do you mind the scent taking part or all of the credit rather than your fly design? Do you need to catch more fish than you can with just unscented flies? If so, why not just use live bait under a bobber if the situation calls for it? Do you care what others may think? Do you care about your reputation as a fly tyer and/or fly fisherman in certain circles? Each person has to answer questions like these and others for themselves and define their own boundaries as to what will give them maximum satisfaction when they're on and off the water. To each his own, of course -- after all, your money, your free time, your hobby, your choice. Personally, I could care less what others chose to do and don't think one way or another about them for doing so. -- Mike

In my opinion, grizzly hen neck hackle tips are absolutely the way to go. -- Mike

Hmmm... interesting. Is the density slightly different? Or is there some treatment done to the fly shop foam? I don't have any foam from a fly shop, otherwise I would test. If anyone wants to send me some.... I have no idea why the difference in performance but I eventually threw away all the foam sheets I got at Michael's. Foam flies are so durable that I don't go through a lot of them during a season, especially since I'm mainly a deer hair guy, so for me the cost savings on the foam isn't nearly as important as the quality of my time on the water, as limited as it is. I'd be curious, though, if anyone else felt they had a similar experience. . . . -- Mike

The fly is constructed by "stacking" (versus "spinning") different colored stacks of deer hair on the bottom and top as you go along tying the fly, which is how you get the patterns; in other words, it is done as the hair is being tied in to construct the fly, not "after they have shaved it down." Very nice fly by the way! -- Mike

I picked up some 2 or 3mm foam sheets from Michael's a while back. It didn't seem to float as well as I thought it should. I then picked some up at a fly shop and found that it floated much, much better. Just looking at the sheets, they looked the same. -- Mike

I appreciate the fellas who are attempting to research and present the etymology of the term "lure," but the answer to this question isn't going to be found in any dictionary. Clearly, it's one of those "in the eyes of the beholder" type of thing, especially judging by the split poll results thus far. I would guess it's that metal blade that's giving pause, which makes me wonder in response to those who say "it's tied" -- If you went to the store and bought a conventional spinnerbait, took it apart, and then used thread to re-attach all the parts, will you have turned a lure into a fly? Just doing my part to stir the pot. day5 -- You shouldn't have included the 3rd option but forced folks to decide between the 2 (i.e., lure vs. fly) . . . I think the results would have been more interesting instead of allowing the majority of folks to opt out or not commit. -- Mike

Tom, I really don't think it has anything to do with leader twist and related amount of false casting. I also don't think it has anything to do with using a knot that's snugged up to the hook eye either. I say this because if I have a diver that's consistently landing upside down, the problem goes away completely if I switch out to a good fly without bothering to untwist my leader, change the way I cast, etc. Also, I use a uni-knot that clinches up tight to the hookeye, just like your clinch knot. I firmly believe a fly's tendency to land upside down or upright is inherent in the way the fly is constructed. I don't apply any coating to the underside of my flies either, although I know the KDM rat employes a coating to ensure it lands right. I understand Kevin Doran who originated it tests and insists his land upright every time before he's willing to fish 'em. -- Mike