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tctrout

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Posts posted by tctrout

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Hi TC, Purple legs and wings for steelhead in the cloudy water of the Salmon River NY?

     

    That's a good question, and I prefer to use contrasting colors (i.e. black and fluorescent chartreuse) during off-color situations. The purple color sounds appealing, depending on what effect you're going for.

    TC

  2. Posted · Report reply

    In this video, I tie the Mega Prince, which bares little resemblance to its predecessor. This is both a great trout and steelhead pattern, plus you can be creative and modify the Mega Prince with your favorite colors. This is a fun fly to both tie and fish, thus as I say in the video, have fun with this one!

     

    TC

     

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Bruce, no apologies needed; that's the point of a forum. Thanks for sharing, and I really like your take on the "three" styled of emergers. I never thought of them in that sense, which means I need more space in my fly boxes! ;-) Seriously, though, you brought up some great points, and I appreciate you sharing the knowledge and thoughts.

    Tim

     

     

     

    I've found the past couple of seasons, for fish taking a range of insects, sedges and upwings a fly fished in almost a J shape catches best for me.
    The pattern I tie has a body of turkey herl, biot or horse hair with a very sparse thorax of something shiny, icedub, slf, glister etc. Something that looks like trapped air or glints a little in the water and then the head is the stiffest hackle I can find which has floatant applied to it, the hackle will sit just in the film with the J sunk down below it. I have to fish this off a more buoyant pattern as it sits so low I cant see it, I look for a rise just past the more buoyant pattern and hit that.
    Does need to be dried and floatant reapplied often and I normally change the fly after a fish but it works very well in a whole range of hatches so far.

    My apologies to Tim for diverting his thread. I was excited to read Piker's J shape pattern, and Tim did ask for other's emerger patterns.

     

    I like your J shape design and will tie some up. I hope the hackle will provide more robust floatation than my current vertical emergers.

     

    J is good name for an important style of emerger. I've called them "vertical" emergers because the body of the fly hangs vertically. J shape or J emerger appeals to me as a better name. My first vertical was a Quigly Cripple years ago, and I've been trying variations ever since.

     

    I see three emerger styles - vertical, horizontal and Klinkhammer. Vertical hangs straight down from the film. Horizontal emergers have the hook shaft and body lying in or just below the film and often include a shuck. Klinks are in between with abdomen in film and thorax below. By emerger, I mean a fly that rides partially above the surface and partially below as Leeson and Schollmayer define the term in Tying Emergers. I know that there are emerger patterns that are fished well below the surface, but I'm ignoring them here.

     

    I use a Klinkhammer (C shape?) style for most caddis and large mayfly. I also use Klinks down to 22 for midges, but I've found that sometimes horizontal patterns like Stuck in Shuck or Transitional Midge work much better.

     

    Stuck in the Shuck

    DSC07592.JPG

     

    Because long midge hatches are so common where I fish, and the fish transition between many different types of rise forms, I use many types of emergers (surely way too many.) Some of my patterns hang completely under the surface except for a bit of wing/post. I usually lead with Charlie Craven's Mole Fly, a very simple CDC fly which works some of the time, but gets quickly slimed after a fish or two and needs replacing.

     

     

     

    Mole Fly

     

     

     

    For really picky fish, I replace the CDC with translucent packing foam and the dubbing with a thread body. This entire hook and body of this fly hang vertically a few millimeters below the surface with only the very top of the wing right at the surface. This is a really simple but fussy pattern. A little too much foam, and the fly lies horizontal. Too little and the fly sinks. After a fish or two, the foam collapses.

     

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Great comments, Piker, and I like the notion of a "J-shape" when tying the emerger to sit in the film. It sounds like your pattern is a keeper, too, and I'll have to try some this season. Thanks for the comment and suggestions!

    TC

     

    I've found the past couple of seasons, for fish taking a range of insects, sedges and upwings a fly fished in almost a J shape catches best for me.
    The pattern I tie has a body of turkey herl, biot or horse hair with a very sparse thorax of something shiny, icedub, slf, glister etc. Something that looks like trapped air or glints a little in the water and then the head is the stiffest hackle I can find which has floatant applied to it, the hackle will sit just in the film with the J sunk down below it. I have to fish this off a more buoyant pattern as it sits so low I cant see it, I look for a rise just past the more buoyant pattern and hit that.
    Does need to be dried and floatant reapplied often and I normally change the fly after a fish but it works very well in a whole range of hatches so far.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    In my newest fly tying tutorial, I feature a fly created by Tom Rosenbauer of Orvis, the Rabbit's Foot Emerger. This is a fly that can be modified to match natural insects, especially over difficult trout. Being an emerger, I prefer to fish this in the surface film, typically seeing only the snowshoe rabbit wing when it's most effective.

     

    I'd love to hear how others fish emergers, especially if different than the style I typically use.

     

    TC

     

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I use a lot of pheasant, partridge English and French(red legged), grouse, Snipe, starling and very recently some comorant I was given.

     

    Does anyone know if cormorant feathers are legal in the US? If so, any dealers that someone can recommend?

     

    Thanks!

     

    TC

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Easily one of my "go to" flies, especially when the fish are flashing and taking emergers, the Soft Hackle Pheasant Tail is an easy pattern that I recommend. I'm curious to hear what other feathers you use on soft hackles, aside from Hungarian Partridge, thus please let me know.

     

    Enjoy!

    TC

  10. Posted · Report reply

    You know tc the only fly I've tied with a jig hook is a slump buster. But I like this fly very much and plan on tying some. I like the variant concept and all its possibilities like even an all black stonefly? By the way why is olive dun your favorite color thread right now?

     

    This is definitely a great pattern, and one I recommend. Your inclusion of the black stonefly shows the versatility of the fly, and there are many effective color combinations out there. You do not have to tie it on a jig hook, though I have been tying many subsurface patterns on them in the last couple years, and have been pleased with the results (especially when fishing the pattern deep). As for the thread, I have been using that color on so many patterns, and it has just the right amount of brown or olive in it, depending on which color I need. It has become my "go-to" thread for nearly all nymphs, with the exception of those that are mainly black.

     

    TC

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Having just watched both I have to ask why re-define the point fly? Almost all trout fishing done here involves the use of multi fly rigs. The point fly is always the one furthest from the reel. The "bob" fly, the nearest to the reel. The definition you are using seems to be the first fly you tie on. Changing this is confusing.

     

    Historically up to 11 flies have been used on one line for Loch style fishing, but the convention today is three, with the slimmest / heaviest fly furthest from the reel. It is much easier to cast this way. On the occasions, when the wind dictates, two flies are used. There have been variations to this set up which have mostly come from competition fishing. Most notable is the "washing line". When the fish are high in the water table a bushy or even buoyant fly is used on the point (furthest from the reel) and a couple of slimmer flies (Diwal Bach, midge pupa, etc) on droppers. The point fly keeps the leader up in the water, letting the other flies hang down as if they were on a washing line.

     

    Dropper loops are one way to attach a dropper, but frankly are a pain. They dictate where you have your droppers, You can't vary the spacing easily. Also they are a pain to tie. What has become our go to method is to just tie a dropper to the leader with a figure of eight knot. Only one knot is required per dropper, halving the work required with a dropper loop. When used up, or you want to vary the spacing, simply trim the dropper to the knot and tie on a new one where you want it. The figure of eight knot is much quicker to tie, and is particularly good for joining dis-similar materials.

     

    The dropper spacing that we use are generally much greater than you are recommending, They can be anything up to 6 feet apart. Sometimes more. One reason for this it the way multi fly set ups work. Often the bob fly, creating a disturbance in or just below the water surface brings a fish up to look at your fly. Often they will turn away from it and take one of the other flies on the leader. If the flies are as close as you are suggesting by the time the fish has turned it is past the other flies. Some days you will be catching well on middle and point flies but the bob fly takes no fish. If you take the bob fly off, replacing it with something else that might catch, then you stop catching altogether. A sure sign that the bob fly is bringing the fish to your flies.

     

    On rivers here multi fly set ups are used for north country spiders and Czech nymphs. For north country spiders it would be normal to use a spacing of three to four feet between flies. Czech nymphing sometimes closer. Talking with John Tyzak a few years ago, he explained that he never put a lighter nymph trailing a heavier one on his leader. It caused too many tangles. His heavy flies often contain up to 5 tungsten beads. Such flies are often considered "sacrificial" and are there just to get the other flies to depth.

     

    Interesting subject using droppers, Much more to it than first appears. It also takes a while to get used to casting with them. You are right on the length, more than 6 inches is a recipe for tangles. They are even used for salmon here, with a small fly added up the leader.

     

    Cheers,

    C.

     

    Thanks for the reply, C., and I always am curious as to differences between our styles of fishing in our countries and types of waterways. In my video, I am referring to moving water in medium-sized rivers, with adjustments made accordingly.

     

    Regarding the point fly, for nymph fishing moving waters, the first pattern tied to the leader (typically the heaviest) is the point. At times, it may be the "bottom" fly you elude to, but anything additionally tied on the leader qualifies as a dropper, regardless of in front of or behind the point.

     

    The distances you mention definitely seem excessive, but alas for a different style of fishing. In the case of river fishing with trout on the bottom, the first fly through captures attention (ESPECIALLY in fast moving currents), and the fish then has moments to take on the second or third (hence why fishing a larger point with smaller imitative droppers can be effective). This is very similar to the Czech-style technique, though many fish with the lighter trailing a heavier. I wonder if the tangles are due to the excessive weight, of which I don't use that many beads on a fly! Though I find it very interesting...and may tie some up for future use. ;-)

     

    Finally, regarding the dropper loops, they are a pain! Ha ha. I believe I said that in the video, but also mentioned that I have a leader exclusively dedicated to nymphing, with various points established. Because of that, tippet can be added easily to those points, and the spacing is already complete. I will normally have three locations for dropper loops above the point (and normally use these for emergers, soft, hackles, and other flies when fish are higher in the water column).

     

    Like you said, there is a lot to droppers! When I first made Part 1, the video was nearly an hour long! I then went back to the drawing board, decided to simply share my general setups above and below the point, and then created the two-part series. Like you, I could undoubtedly discuss this for hours on end, as it is an extremely rewarding style of fly fishing with many intricacies.

     

    Thanks for sharing your own insight, as the loch-style seems very unique in itself, too.

     

    TC

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Tim, I am curious do you ever use a strike indicator above these multiple fly set ups? Thanks Gary

     

    Absolutely, Gary; I use different types of indicators, including floating and in-line. I also like the leader material that is high-vis (and sometimes two colors), which makes it nice to see in shallow-water situations.

     

    Do you use indicators much?

    TC

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Continuing this series, in Part 2 I share an easy method to attach dropper flies above the point fly, plus give some sample situations in which this is encouraged. Feel free to share your thoughts and ideas, especially those that enjoy fishing droppers off of the leader.

     

    TC

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I have made a brief, two-part series, involving dropper flies above and below the point. This is a general overview (in Part 1, I discuss flies lower in the water column, hence below the point), but I'd love to hear others' thoughts regarding ways to attach flies below a point fly, differing from those discussed in the video.

     

    Thanks,

     

    TC

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all of the kind words, and recommendations so far!

     

    Dave, for starters, yes I do drink coffee out of that mug! I just posted a new video, and I actually take a sip at the beginning! ;-)

     

    Additionally, great recommendations, and lots of information in your post. I really appreciate everything, and hope you and your family have a great Christmas season!

    Tim

     

    Great video TC ! But do you ever drink anything from that mug ? LOL

     

    I agree on Grizzly as number one to buy. I use Grizzly more than any other, then Furnace or Coachman brown and Ginger ( furnace is awesome, just makes for buggy bugs) . I keep limited Dun as well. Between those I can tie most of what I see here in new England or shall I say " close enough".. I am tossed on what is best for a BWO though, I've never owned a specific cape or neck for those but just patch something together between two lighter feathers of my mix above and an olive body. They catch fish but I don't get into a lot BWO hatches either.. I keep Grizzly in three grades because I tie Griffiths Gnats for midge fishing with small, I mix Grizzly and Brown for fluttering caddis or Royal Wolff and Coachman in a bit larger size and up to about size 10. The soft hen for large woolly buggers. I've never owned a full saddle because of this size variation and tend towards capes in Cock and Hen. FWIW. I'd love to own all capes of proper size for each of the flies I tie, economically silly for me though but it would make for easy selection.

     

    On another note, through the years I've managed to grab a good neck here and there of generic branding. If a good one is found it can lead to significant savings.

     

    Thanks for the video ! And merry Christmas !

    Dave G

  21. Posted · Report reply

    A common question those newer to fly tying ask frequently is, "What's the difference between saddle hackle and capes?" In the following video, I tried to break down the two into basic parts, and even briefly discussed grading systems. Finally, I give specific recommendations towards each, including colors. Feel free to jump in and let me know which you prefer for dry flies, and colors you suggest beginners purchasing first.

     

    Thanks, and Merry Christmas,

     

    TC

     

  25. Posted · Report reply

    What's great about fly tying and fishing is that in the end, we each get to make our own decisions. The old saying of "presentation, size, color..." is absolutely applicable in this discussion, though I prefer to look at it that color is on the list versus being last.

     

    Thinking about my own fishing and experiences with trout, I immediately apply that saying to a native trout in a rarely-fished stream versus a pressured one on a spring creek. In my opinion, the color shade does matter in the latter, hence why I prefer to get the closest shade possible when tying. Knowing that there are slight to major color/shade variations within a specific hatch has taught me to think that way. For example, during our sulphur hatch, the duns and spinners can vary in color from a pale yellow to strong orange depending on their size (and other factors), plus there are additional colors seen in their bodies (which is one reason why I also do still tie with Spectrumized Dubbing). http://thedelawareriverclub.com/tips-and-techniques/spectrumized-dubbing/

     

    Does this mean that I fish ultra-realistic patterns? No, I tend to go more of the "suggestive" route, but don't critique those who prefer to match as closely as possible.

     

    As the notion of eyesight related to fish enters this conversation, I have yet to find what I would call the definitive source for information. I have read a little on the subject (enough to make me dangerous!), basically between Vincent Marinaro's thoughts to "What Fish See..." by Colin Kageyama, and like many of you, have applied pieces of each into my own fishing and tying. If anyone has any additional information related to this, I'd love to hear more about it.

     

    As I mentioned in my previous post, this is a fun conversation, and something for us to discuss a bit online and have some fun with it. Again, the great thing about tying and fly fishing is that in the end, we have the ability to choose what matters to each of us, be that the size of the eyes you place on your ultra-realistic PMD emerger to the shade of the BWO spinner you're fishing. ;-)

     

    TC

     

    SilverCreek clearly articulates some of the confounding issues, and thus raises the question does it really matter? Is the water test meaningful? Do you adherents really believe that if you are off by a few shades, as in the example of wet versus dark synthetic, that your fly will be refused? Really? Especially when one considers all the other variables involved? Put it another way, what traditionally is considered the ranking of importance when considers presentation, size, and color?

     

    As I confessed, I quite often test a new pattern in water, but more often than not to check the action or silhouette first and color last.

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