Foam from craft storea

[Guest]

I've tied a lot of bugs using the less expensive foam from craft stores. However, I've noticed that these bugs tend to absorb water and slowly sink.

 

Have others of you noticed this? If so, any suggested remedies? I was wondering if coating the foam with Hansens Hard A Nails would work.

 

Dave

[brianh 0]

Dave, I've noticed the same thing, but I don't think it is the foam. The foam sold in craft stores is closed cell, so it doesn't absorb water. In my case I think what happens is all the other 'stuff' tied onto the hook absorbs water and puts the fly in either a neutral or negative buoyancy state. The weight of the hook and buoyancy of the leader/tippett is a factor, too.

 

I tie very small 'ants' on #18 hooks using minimal foam for the body. They'll float for the first few casts, then require a few false casts to dry them out, then they'll float again for a bit. Doesn't matter - floating or hanging just below the surface, the bluegill love 'em!

[Arkansas Mike 0]

Hi, Dave. I've tied a lot of foam beetles and have just started tying foam bodied hoppers. One problem with closed-cell foam is that tight thread pressure will rupture all the hollow chambers inside, which give the foam its buoyancy. Also, excessive stretching of the material will reduce its buoyancy. Try either cutting your foam into thinner pieces if you want it narrower, or use a longer piece so you wont have to stretch it as much. When ribbing use fewer wraps and don't bind them down as tight. Of course, foam has a tendency to twist and roll on the shank, so you have to use adequate pressure at the tie in points. I've never done this, but have read that when wrapping a foam body, or constructing a folded foam body, you can coat your thread foundation with super-glue before wrapping or folding your foam over it. They also make an adhesive backed foam. Also, if you want your foam critter to really float, I don't think I'd coat it with Hard-As-Nails. For a Drowning Ant pattern you could do this (I use epoxy and black paint), but for a floater, I'd think this would clog up all your hollow chambers in the foam. So, I doubt it's the kind of closed-cell foam you're using, rather the way you're tying it in. If you're using tiny pieces of foam, then stretching and binding it tightly to the hook shank along the entire length, then you're probably just crushing all the hollow chambers within the foam.

 

 

Just read an piece where a guy uses thinned Flexament to coat a foam body after coloring it with colored markers. So maybe coating it lightly with something won't hurt.

[Fred H. 0]

I agree with brianh , I dont think its the quality of the of the foam, however the 2mm foam I purchased thru J.Stochard has an almost slick side that seems to float better on smaller patterns . On patterns such as sponge spiders you could use a thin coat of clear nail polish on craft foam and they should float forever. But don't take my word for it craft foam is cheap . Play around with some different ways in the sink before you go to the hook , and let us know .

Fred

[Fly Tyer Guy 0]

I agree with Mike the key is making sure that you do not compress it too much, leave it a little slack if anything.

 

Also the fish teeth will inevitably break some of the air pockets, so foam flies will lose some of their "floatabilty" over time.

[Futzer 0]

Hi Dave, I would coat them in Aquel, watershed, or mucilin.

 

Cheers, Futzer.

[VERN-O 0]

great thread!!!!....I just abandoned an experimental foam fly because it didn't float well at all.......time to reconsider....thanks guys!!!